Spray MAX 2K Aerosol Clear Coat

I've just bought two aerosol cans of Spray MAX 2K Clearcoat, 2 PART system that I want to apply to the bike frame and later to the tank and side covers. Typically, I use nitrile gloves and a 1/2 face HEPA filter respirator in an open car port area. However, the warnings I've read and MSDS sheets are insisting that I use a separate air supply, full tyvex coveralls and a spray booth. They go on to say that it contains isocyanates and I'll pretty much drop dead if I get so much as a molecule of this stuff on or in me. Anyone else got any thoughts on this stuff. The paint results look great but its really starting to scare me.

In this age of liability ever product has warnings that scare the dickens out of you. However, some of them should be paid attention to. Your lungs absorb stuff, obviously, so the resperator is a good idea. If you don't want to use supplied air, I would at least cover any exposed skin with something like Silicone Glove and wear some swimming goggles to keep it out of your eyes. You can absorb a lot of crap through your eyes and the goggles are cheap enough to throw away afterward. When I do project like this I go strait to the shower with the goggles on, wash down well and then strip them off.

Dunno if this is a good idea for the product you are using but it is better than nothing at all by a long shot.

Russ

Sometimes ya gotta be a little inventive!

Stillreel said:

I've just bought two aerosol cans of Spray MAX 2K Clearcoat, 2 PART system that I want to apply to the bike frame and later to the tank and side covers. Typically, I use nitrile gloves and a 1/2 face HEPA filter respirator in an open car port area. However, the warnings I've read and MSDS sheets are insisting that I use a separate air supply, full tyvex coveralls and a spray booth. They go on to say that it contains isocyanates and I'll pretty much drop dead if I get so much as a molecule of this stuff on or in me. Anyone else got any thoughts on this stuff. The paint results look great but its really starting to scare me.

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Huff it and let us know what happens, if you can still type. :mrgreen:

I'm asthmatic stillreel and try not to do this toxic stuff myself. Are there any warnings concerning CANCER a few miles down the road ? Plus can I have your bike when the rabbit kicks the bucket ?

Stillreel said:

I've just bought two aerosol cans of Spray MAX 2K Clearcoat, 2 PART system that I want to apply to the bike frame and later to the tank and side covers. Typically, I use nitrile gloves and a 1/2 face HEPA filter respirator in an open car port area. However, the warnings I've read and MSDS sheets are insisting that I use a separate air supply, full tyvex coveralls and a spray booth. They go on to say that it contains isocyanates and I'll pretty much drop dead if I get so much as a molecule of this stuff on or in me. Anyone else got any thoughts on this stuff. The paint results look great but its really starting to scare me.

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I used that stuff and take the warning very seriously.
I had my garage door open.
Would take a breath of fresh air, trot in and shoot then trot outside to breath.
Never took a breath inside the garage.
Tank looks great.
Even doing what I did I felt some tightness in my chest that took a couple hours to go away.
Can't imagine how bad it would be to actually breath that stuff.
Don't even consider just a filter mask.

Bob

I've got organic vapour and HEPA filter cartridges to use together. I'll also cover up completely with goggles and nitrile gloves. Nothing left exposed and in a drafty carport area. Still nervous about it as some reports indicate even the smallest exposure to this stuff will cause future sensitivity leading to asthma. This is really toxic stuff. I'm wishing I'd just taken it to a shop now.

I have known people who despite all precautions have become sensitized to epoxy and others who despite no precautions have not. I think you are taking reasonable precautions. If you really feel the need for supplied air, buy a brand new 1-gallon shop vac, duct tape a long length of vinyl hose (the ribbed stuff like you get for bilge pumps) to it and use it to deliver air from outside the painting area to your mask. Yeah it is kind of red neck but believe me...it works, despite the fact that OSHA wouldn't approve it. I have used this method when needing to run gas powered equipment in confined spaces. It works best with a full face mask but you could hook it up to a partial respirator.

Russ

If you can make up a DIY forced air mask from your shop vac if you have one and do it outside completely covered up, otherwise I'd let it go. I wouldn't mess with it without forced air into your mask. Just my opinion.

Dave
69S

Just remember that if you rig up a fresh air mask, it has to be FRESH air, not sucking in stuff from the garage where you're working!

Its the same as superglue with or w/o pigments, which was developed as Combat surgical wound closers but don't want any fumes inside.

There are people out there who put a whole tube of airplane model glue into a paper bag and huff and puff on it .Sometimes other solvents or even gasoline.Their minds turn to mush and they cannot drive their motorcycles after that. Be afraid,be very afraid.

I built a bunch of plastic models then burnt em up in fumes of war games. No lasting effects on brain or cancer so far that anyone can tell : ) I'm not really a hick, I'm a Maimi seasoned white trash gang war, Cuban and Puerto Rico gang war, forced segragation gang war and multicultural drug turf war veteran who fought off glue crazed weirdo's hopping over fences and hedges on ya for fun and profit kinda of guy.

Lots of Vit.C and minerals and enzymes and liver detox supplements ain't a bad id before and after DIY chemical exposure.

hobot said:

Its the same as superglue with or w/o pigments, which was developed as Combat surgical wound closers but don't want any fumes inside.

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Well, not exactly. Superglue is a cyanoacrylate polymer. The polyisocyanate in these paints is a crosslinking (curing) agent for the backbone resin and as such is somewhat availalble in the more toxic "free" form.

While all isocyanates are toxic, this one is a polymeric HDI which has an acute oral toxic dose higher than the xylene solvent in the paint. It is the chronic exposure that is the worst. The MSDS indicates less than 4 hours exposure. It would take a lot of rattle cans to work with this stuff for a continuous 4 hr period, however. In modern toxicology "the devil is in the dose".

In the end it's a personal choice, but I would use a well fitting chemical respirator with organic vapor cartridges in a well ventilated area. The "redneck supplied air mask" might work, but would certainly restrict movement and if not set up properly could actually draw in the very air your wish to avoid.

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/UE_MSDS_3680061.pdf

Greetings,
Do you have a vocational high school nearby. I have had stuff painted at the one local to me and it came out good. Most of the schools with an autobody program have all the up-to-date equipment including down draft spray booths etc. If you supply the material the labor is usully free. Of course with kids you will be taking a little chance, but it may be worth your while to check it out.

GB

Thanks for the clarification Ron. Motorcycling is risky business from all angles so plan you moves well ahead. The cyanide compounds in seed pits are a cancer cure because normal cells can detoxify-ignore it just fine.

Update: I finished the work on the frame and it looks awesome! I highly recommend this system. I used a black Spray Max base coat followed by the 2 part 2K Clearcoat and the result is great. I decided to go this route as the powder coat company was 1) too expensive and 2) didn't allow me the control of surfaces that I needed. The Clearcoat is smooth, high gloss and apparently very durable.

As far as the precautions go, I used a 1/2 face mask respirator with an organic vapour filter with an additional particulate filter available from any good art supply store. The actual painting was done out in the carport with a light breeze, and I was further covered up with goggles and gloves: no problem. But note if you are considering this method, the particulate and organic vapour filter is a must: the isocyanates are extremely toxic.

The 1K water based base coat paint is expensive but the frame, swing arm, engine cradle, iso mount and other parts are done with two rattle cans of paint and clearcoat each. And it really looks good. Well pleased. Total cost under $150. And now I feel confident enough to do the tank and side covers.

Thanks all, for your input.

BC
71 Commando
68 TR6P
73 Suzuki A100
Toronto

Good to hear you survived.
Picture of completed frame paint would be interesting.
Bob

Great ,yes to photos. How are the birdies and squirrels around the carport feeling ?

Here's a couple of images: