For the top nuts I use 3/4" drive socket with the walls ground thinner to clear. They can be pretty tight and may need heat to help or air impact if a 4 ft breaker bar don't. The seal holders can also be a bugger that breaks rubber straps ugh, so had had to use HEAVY leather, not frail work gloves or welding glove grade and big channel lock pliers - after some good heat. Damper tube bottom bolt can lossen to only spin damper tube endlessly - so might try it first while spring pressure friction holding or later with long pliers or wedging stuff around it. The beat on damper cap can be a terror too but by that point it can be put in vice for obvious brute normal wrench or vice grips on it. Don't crust the tube of course but if as blacksmithed as my sets its dicy not too. After above I anti-seeze everything.