Size?

Webby03

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Jan 3, 2011
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OK, tonight I'm thinking about size. No not my manhood but wheels :mrgreen:
As many of you know I'm (very slowly) building a Triton. Now, I know that the featherbed framed bikes came with 19" wheels, and I believe that the Commando is the same. However I see that may people opt to fit 18", normally the excuse is a wider choice of tyre.
But my question what gives the best handling? Or in fact is there any difference?

Many Thanks

Webby
 
My free advice (and it's worth every bit of what you paid!),
19's front and rear with MATCHING, NARROW Avon Roadriders (I think they are the best tire available, in my experience they grip BETTER when they are wet and that is a lovely-feature!). It's my theory that the "wider rear tire" deal does NOT work well on a light, slim bike.
This build is getting 100/90X19 Roadriders front and rear on WM3's (light, cafe-style '71 Commando).

Vince
 
Dunlop GT 501s are WAY stickier than Avon Roadriders, and are available in 18" and 19" sizes. That's what I'll be using on my TriTon, same as on my '69 Bonneville Historic Production heavyweight race bike.
 
Thanks Vince,
There were no plans for phat tires, this is not MTV pimp my bike/car/house/girlfriend etc.
I was planning on 110 (maybe 120 max) rear and 100 front, I have also decided that the roadriders are the way to go.
As you're building a 71, do you have any experience of the Dommie/Commando front drum brake? I've got a bid on flea bay at the moment for a nice complete WM2 19" Alloy wheel. I assume that it has to be better than the comical hub fitted to my 71 Bonnie (Only no brake could be worse :lol: )

Webby
 
grandpaul said:
Dunlop GT 501s are WAY stickier than Avon Roadriders, and are available in 18" and 19" sizes. That's what I'll be using on my TriTon, same as on my '69 Bonneville Historic Production heavyweight race bike.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info GPZ,
I've not had any experience of Dunlops fitted to a bike, I'll have a look into it.

Webby
 
Webby03 said:
do you have any experience of the Dommie/Commando front drum brake? I've got a bid on flea bay at the moment for a nice complete WM2 19" Alloy wheel.
Webby
Click to expand...

I have been told (I have no personal experience with the front drum yet) that properly setup the 2LS drum can work VERY well, to that end I have gotten every improvement I could find:
Stiffener kit, longer actuating arms, a MUCH heavier cable (with no switch), a "freer breathing" screen and real pads.

We shall see how well this works.

Vince
 
Unclviny said:
Webby03 said:
do you have any experience of the Dommie/Commando front drum brake? I've got a bid on flea bay at the moment for a nice complete WM2 19" Alloy wheel.
Webby
Click to expand...

I have been told (I have no personal experience with the front drum yet) that properly setup the 2LS drum can work VERY well, to that end I have gotten every improvement I could find:
Stiffener kit, longer actuating arms, a MUCH heavier cable (with no switch), a "freer breathing" screen and real pads.

We shall see how well this works.

Vince
Click to expand...

Thanks Vince,

I guess we will find out soon enough. If I end up in the trunk of an SUV before you I'll be sure to let you know :mrgreen:

Webby
 
Webby and Vince,

Carefully dressing the brake shoes so that they have consistent, even contact across the entire surface (end-to-end and side-to-side) is a big key to getting maximum performance from them. Even inexpensive shoes that are properly dressed can perform better than the most expensive shoes that are just put in and run as-is.
 
Thanks for the info GPZ,
That is what I've done with my comical hub on the bonnie, it more than doubled it's performance (although t's still pretty rubbish compared to the rear).
I'll wait and see if I win the wheel on flea bay, it's a Dommie hub on a 19" WM2 Dunlop Aloy rim.

Webby
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktkZn2p1ypE

Check this out .

Unusual to run same size F & R on F'bed RACEING .

Wotter yr useing it for . How Strong is Yr grip . How many hours could you swing a Axe . Do you have a fittness progam ? Jog 5 Ks ea. day? .

:p :p

Good brakes and a bit of rubber on the back may allow you to cross it up into hairpins , saveing time .Requires good co-ordination .
Anything under / outside of the frame rails 45 Deg. banked angle dragged at times , with the Trigonic Tyres .
The High Level pipes seen on Manx's were a result .

featherbed-dual-loop-cradle-pictures-t11721.html

However , I think ' we ' are getting a bit over the top . RIDEABILITY allows one to not slow down or miss apply power .Without a semi close
gearbox ratio set , its all rather arbitory .

A drum requires cleaning ant optimum adjustment for best results , ongoing . High Temp H.D. lineings or pads , temp resistant , can well be ineffective when cold and inadequate due to that , if theres a SUV on the ' Race Track ' .

Converting youre Conical triumph brake to Hydraulic , with Humber 80 parts , will get you Half a Humber 80's front brakes.Shoes are same .

Rear Conical is alloy copy of Mag. Manx rear .


A full tank tends to roll you out of corners , if 4 Gal Plus . and requires a degree of forethought cornering .

A lot of early race drivers drove lorries . NO power steering then . May not be the brakes at fault . Watch who you shake hands with . :lol:
 
Matt, what do you, or did you do in life?
I picture you living half way up a twisty mountain road, long grey beard and hair, a staff and a flowing oil stained coat.
The bones of past projects strewn about the un kept grass and weeds and tumbledown timber sheds,,,,,
How wrong am I ?
Graeme

(I don't mean to offend, so appologies if I did)
 
That the bones of past projects were still there .
Argued a Lot , :wink: ( We call it Debate ) , The Olde Man built the best boats in N.Z. As good as any & better than most . Cheapest .
As he piad the best wages , to the best workers . So it was done quicker with less stuff ups ( Thatll be the apprentice )
or for monumental ones
POLITITIONS .

So were subjected to a wide spectrum of individuals in the formative years , till 8 Yrs old. And thumped in the head a lot . So didnt remember .

Still scribble out designs , but nothing of use of late ( the last few years ) However plotting a Commando purchase , and will build it as I see fit .

Dont mind a few friendly jabs in the ribs , at all. Thanks .
 
Thanks Matt,

Strangely, I was thinking about the conical hub hydraulic conversion earlier today (before work got in the way!) after seeing one fitted to a BSA B50 racer in UK Classic Bike Guide mag.
I didn't win the wheel on flea bay, someone had one of those auto bid programs I think, all was going well till the last 10 seconds! Bit unfair I think and one of the reasons I don't buy much there, although saying that I've got a bid on a Commando front hub and brake plate at the moment.
Interesting point you make about different sizes of wheel on race bikes, I guess to quicken up the steering a little with the larger front wheel, odd that Triumphs were fitted with the larger front wheel for the US market but not for the sportier more practical home market bikes, I think this was only for looks.

As for me, my fitness program consists of how many beers I can lift on a big night out, I have also been known to run once in a while if it's near pub closing time :D

I already have a Triumph rear hub, although I won't be bothering with re-drilling it and fitting a cooling ring to make it look like the Manx, the tank when I get the cash to buy it will be a 3 gallon (short circuit) Lyta, I think it looks the best.

All the best

Webby
 
Webby03 said:
grandpaul said:
Dunlop GT 501s are WAY stickier than Avon Roadriders, and are available in 18" and 19" sizes. That's what I'll be using on my TriTon, same as on my '69 Bonneville Historic Production heavyweight race bike.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info GPZ,
I've not had any experience of Dunlops fitted to a bike, I'll have a look into it.

Webby
Click to expand...

I have no experience of these Dunlop tyres but Avon Roadrunners are good for the average roadrider. My personal preference is a pair of Metzelers, a ME33 on the front with Comp K compound and a ME 1 on the rear. But here’s the problem, the ME1 rear is I believe only available in 18 inch size.
 
So whats the verdict on the right rim size, 18's all round, 19's or 18 rear and 19 front?
Also with 19" on the rear, how does this affect tire clearance?
 
Far and away the BEST HANDLING motorcycle I have ever ridden was my 1973 850 Norton with 4.10 X 19 Avon's front and rear on matching rims. The ONLY arguement I have ever heard for the 18" rear tire is "you get a wider selection of tires" but I REALLY do not think that you NEED a wider selection!

Vince
 
I am mocking up my Triton and currently have a 18 inch rear wheel with a 4 x 18 tire and the fit is tight in the swing arm. Would the Avon road rider in 90/90 18 be any narrower and give a little more room for chain adjustment etc?
 
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