Shrapnel in Sump

BERT said:

Did the new chain resolve the scraping?

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Have not fitted new DID, just flipped the master link on old chain to inner run side. That chain still seems pretty good, little slop when pulling away from rear sprocket. Will keep it in service for a season or so more.

marshg246 said:

If your "modern" flasher has more than two wires then you'll need to say a lot more about how you're wired for someone to help you. Otherwise:

It clicks and does no more most likely due to no load - most likely no ground.

To test the flasher, pull both wires and connect them together the try the handlebar switch. The front and rear light on the side you select should come on.

If not, to test ground, turn one side turn signals on and run a jumper write from the battery positive (assumes still positive gorund) or a red wire to the stem of one of that side's turn signals. If no joy try the other on that side.

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Flasher is two wire. Will do those tests prior to pulling tank.
Checking schematic, seems like one of the whites off multi-connector block runs to left switch for turn lamps and interestingly also powers the lower left push button, WR line, which I had setup for horn. If the W wire has dislodged from the multi connector block, could explain all the lights and possibly the horn. Not sure how the shop mech setup up the horn, as usually it is off the right hand switch, PB line.

Tornado said:

Flasher is two wire. Will do those tests prior to pulling tank.
Checking schematic, seems like one of the whites off multi-connector block runs to left switch for turn lamps and interestingly also powers the lower left push button, WR line, which I had setup for horn. If the W wire has dislodged from the multi connector block, could explain all the lights and possibly the horn. Not sure how the shop mech setup up the horn, as usually it is off the right hand switch, PB line.

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There should be a white (hot) wire to each switch console. The Purple/Black wire is for the horn. The Light Green/Brown wire goes between the common of the turn signal switch and the flasher. The other flasher wire is white. So, power for the turn signals is White -> Flasher -> Light Green/Brown -> Common of handlebar switch -> Green/White to right side front and rear turn signal (Green/Red to other side).

The white wire in the handlebar switches is for horn, high-beam flash, electric start (if equipped), and power to the coils (or ballast resistor if still a points ignition) via the kill button. It has nothing to do with the turn signals.

OK, sorted. Tested as per Greg's method, shorting the two leads tothe flasher unit. Got left or right lamps to light steady with the switch position. So that means all connections to the lamps are correct. Swapped in a different flasher, two prong LED compatible type (that I happened to have rattling about in my spares box)...recovered the blinking function.

The horn was a separate issue, spade connector had popped off (or was missed when reassembled). Not hard to reach and push home. Horn (aftermarket Fiamm Freeway Blaster II) now works as per schematic, with button on right switch cluster. As I'd mentioned, I'd moved this function to the left cluster, unused lower button as it is in line with my modern bike in that location. Will migrate it next time I have the tank off, as I need to swap the right side switch PB with a left switch WR into the PB of the multi-connection block beneath tank.

Had her out on first good length ride. A few niggles to sort, one turn lamp shaking loose, handlebar clamps needing a snug down, one mirror clamp tightening.
Seemed to be harder to start than prior to carb adjustments I did a few days ago. Seemed to like a wee bit open throttle at kicking before it would fully fire, so maybe just a little low on idle screw settings.

Had it out on highway for a spell. Loads of power on tap. Seems like all my gears are taller, 3500 rpm at about 55-60 ish (speedo still a bit fluttery). I seem to remember it being more like 4k at those speeds. This is with a new/different rear tire, a TT100 K81, 4.10 vs a K70 4.00 (I think). Could a slightly taller tire make that much change in rpm at those speeds? Not inconceivable the workshop fitted a different final drive sprocket I guess.

Tornado said:

Had her out on first good length ride. A few niggles to sort, one turn lamp shaking loose, handlebar clamps needing a snug down, one mirror clamp tightening.
Seemed to be harder to start than prior to carb adjustments I did a few days ago. Seemed to like a wee bit open throttle at kicking before it would fully fire, so maybe just a little low on idle screw settings.

Had it out on highway for a spell. Loads of power on tap. Seems like all my gears are taller, 3500 rpm at about 55-60 ish (speedo still a bit fluttery). I seem to remember it being more like 4k at those speeds. This is with a new/different rear tire, a TT100 K81, 4.10 vs a K70 4.00 (I think). Could a slightly taller tire make that much change in rpm at those speeds? Not inconceivable the workshop fitted a different final drive sprocket I guess.

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Do you mean gearbox sprocket?
You can't change the the final drive sprocket on a drum brake commando
(Not easily anyway)

baz said:

Do you mean gearbox sprocket?
You can't change the the final drive sprocket on a drum brake commando
(Not easily anyway)

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Yes, GB sprocket.

Tornado said:

Had her out on first good length ride. A few niggles to sort, one turn lamp shaking loose, handlebar clamps needing a snug down, one mirror clamp tightening.
Seemed to be harder to start than prior to carb adjustments I did a few days ago. Seemed to like a wee bit open throttle at kicking before it would fully fire, so maybe just a little low on idle screw settings.

Had it out on highway for a spell. Loads of power on tap. Seems like all my gears are taller, 3500 rpm at about 55-60 ish (speedo still a bit fluttery). I seem to remember it being more like 4k at those speeds. This is with a new/different rear tire, a TT100 K81, 4.10 vs a K70 4.00 (I think). Could a slightly taller tire make that much change in rpm at those speeds? Not inconceivable the workshop fitted a different final drive sprocket I guess.

Click to expand...

The Overall Diameter of the 4.00 x 18 Dunlop K70 is 671 mm (26.417 in)