Shifting better

Dogt,

You can re-adjust the clutch cable and lock nut in the end of the clutch to give a different cable position, particulary make sure the arm inside the gearbox cover is at around 90 degrees ( to give max mechanical advantage to your clutch lever use ).

Josh

But you want a bit of free play in the clutch cable. If you accept the cable free play, the clearance between the lever, ball, rod and clutch adjuster is a fixed measurement. Seems to me if you take up the slop in the cable with the adjuster you are pre-loading the diaphragm which may lead to slipping clutch. At least that's what I've found.

This adjustment on my bike has always been between a hair and a gnat's navel, but it always seems to work good when I get it there and I can't complain about it now. I'm still thinking about taking up the slop from the clutch pack to the basket circlip with a shim. That will decrease the slop in the adjuster to lever clearance.

I'm always willing to learn new tricks too.

Got another 18 miles in today, I wanted to do more, but the body was just not feeling good today. I was lucky to get it out. It still scares me it's starting and running so good, I keep looking down for oil on the boots. Need to adjust the tappets again.

Dave
69S

Once in a while someone surprises you. DomiRacer had the clutch body 06-0062 and it looks just like the original, even appears to be made the same way, so am wondering if it is just old stock. It was covered in cosmoline and looks great, doesn't look like a repro. It was only about $18 too.



Dave
69S

I'm revisiting the primary adjustment on this old thread. Have the primary apart to install new clutch bearing and notice that my triplex chain is really loose, it sure shifts easy though. I can push it up and down maybe over 1". Reading the Riders Handbook, it doesn't specify how hard to push the chain when checking for the 3/8". I find when it's 'dead tight' I can still move it nearly 3/8 if I really push it, but I know that's too tight. Re-reading Mike T's post about using the rear wheel in gear to check for 3/16", I'm wondering if he's doing it without any finger pressure? It sort of sounds like it. I'm going to try that and see how that works for me. Comments?

Should be getting the Amal parts soon, so am waiting to get it out for that, otherwise the weather has been fine, in the 70's.

Dave
69S

I just adjusted the chain and using 3/16" play by just pushing the rear wheel back and forth, I can push it easily by hand about 7/8". Not far off where I started. It seems about right though, when I used 3/8" by pushing, I was getting hard shifting.

Dave
69S

when I used 3/8" by pushing, I was getting hard shifting.

Click to expand...

Get this vital chain tension set right or too loose each and everytime as it can only take one event of thermal over tighening, enough to strain shifting to bend a twist in shafts and wear bushes down, so nothing for it but re-new gear box, even if re-seting chain correctly later. Check and set tension at full heat then check when cool to know how slack to set it cold vs how lucky ya feel doing other wise. Normal clutches do not wobble at all.

Dave,
The best way that I was tought to check tension was to load the chain with the kick-starter.You can just hold
tension with that.Works well with me.
YING