Shift lever locking up (intermittently)

Britfan60 said:
Any suggestions. Should I go with the clear bottles, a fancy assed Italian job in gold? (Rizoma) Or stay stock where the paint erodes and it looks ugly? OR can I just reseal the one I have with a new diaphragm?
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A leaky cap won't be the cause of air getting into your system or cause your clutch to fade unless you scrape your pegs every ride then it MIGHT., however a good fitting diaphragm will stop the spillage and spoilt paint!

It looks like your reservoir is integral to the master cylinder so you can't simply swap to a fancy aftermarket one. It sounds to me that you have bled the system more than enough, I would go with a master cyl. rebuild kit OR if cheap enough, a whole new master cyl. as I am guessing that fluid is getting back past the mc seals and up into the reservoir. New model Triumph owners have been experiencing front brake fade due to master cyls that have prematurely worn out the bores.
 
I believe you are right. I thought of that also. There are 2 grooves intentionally cut into the cap at that area and that's where the bubble and leak came from. I ordered a new cap and diaphragm anyway.

And I've noticed a faint air sucking sound when I release the clutch handle and its coming more from the master cylinder area. I've been doing the search. Rebuild kits abound. Not sure of which one and diameter. Anybody know what part I should order for the rebuild kit?

Don't think you were around yet, but my bike went down hard enough to bend my handlebars last about 16 months ago. The lever didn't snap but it did scrape along. My first symptom of this was about 500 miles after getting the bike back from the shop. They didn't change the clutch controls. Just the handle bar. I'm betting the seal took a bit of a beating.
 
TonyA said:
View attachment 6409

This is where your shifting "lockup" problem may be. Item C must roll freely on Item B. If the shoulder bolt B is too tight , C cannot rotate freely . Also , the arm in RED should not be worn or indented where it works against the pins on the shift drum star E . Some of the older bikes had soft arms and need to be replaced with new hardened arm . My bike had a hardened arm a late 2014 . But it doesn't mean they all did. I was shown soft ones and what can happen. The problem you are describing sounds like this area. So , get your clutch master working good first and if you still have shifting issues , look here.
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Appreciate that. Anything beyond the master, and I'm shopping it. I don't think I'm equipped tool wise to take on that endeavor. Ever since I had the tranny replaced, the shifting was weird. The lever never seemed to bottom out. Even in first, If I depressed the shifter, it would still click like it was downshifting. The original never did that. Also, my bike is a 13, so, entirely possible if it has what you called the softer arm.
 
Britfan60 said:
Don't think you were around yet, but my bike went down hard enough to bend my handlebars last about 16 months ago. The lever didn't snap but it did scrape along.
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It's quite possible that the shock of the drop damaged the seals or the plunger put a dent in the bore or even put a hairline in the alloy master cyl. New slave (nice by the way :) ), pipes bled (umpteen times), it does look most likely that the master is the cause of your troubles.
 
13mm is the piston/bore size I think . Don't know what the 961 size is. Also , what about the hose thread size ? Don't you want a Norton replacement ?
 
That's what I was asking. The piston size either for a rebuild kit or to just by the whole unit for 90 bucks more. Either way, but mine looks like hell so if I rebuild it, I'll just repaint it. Don't know the 961 size? There are 11, 12 13MM. I think its the 13. If I buy the whole unit, does it matter? The sell banjo bolts and crush washers to size with it any way for a few bucks more. Point me to the shop in Welland, Canada, Tony.
 
Look on the bottom of the master cylinder casting , often they are stamped with the bore size . I have played with different bore sizes of master for brakes. Smaller bore master will give an easier pull but more master piston travel to move the slave. I was pointing you to Coote's shop. I would buy the Norton master just to keep the bike looking like original . If you want I can PM you his number.
 
TonyA said:
Look on the bottom of the master cylinder casting , often they are stamped with the bore size . I have played with different bore sizes of master for brakes. Smaller bore master will give an easier pull but more master piston travel to move the slave. I was pointing you to Coote's shop. I would buy the Norton master just to keep the bike looking like original . If you want I can PM you his number.
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Thought it was the same but now see the mirror Mount is different. I'll email Norton. AF1 is up to 6 weeks for delivery on parts they don't carry in stock because the like to bulk ship from Norton. My part would have to piggyback a ride on one of their parts orders.
 
Britfan60 said:
Thought it was the same but now see the mirror Mount is different. I'll email Norton. AF1 is up to 6 weeks for delivery on parts they don't carry in stock because the like to bulk ship from Norton. My part would have to piggyback a ride on one of their parts orders.
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I think i see a 12 on my clutch master , and a 14 on my fr. brake master cylinder .
 
TonyA said:
I think i see a 12 on my clutch master , and a 14 on my fr. brake master cylinder .
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Corresponded with Rob @ Norton. Man...he's good. Getting a master from the factory to my home. All should be one with the universe in a week or so. Weathers cooling off starting tomorrow. I'll show the little Bonnie some love.
 
Replaced the whole unit. Master, Reservoir, line with banjo bolts and new crush washers and lever. Thanks to Rob and Adam (logistics manager) for their assistance and timely action. So....go for a ride, locked up again. sigh...noticed it was wet under the banjo bolt. Dried it up and tightened it more. I was a bit scared because it's a cast unit and was afraid of cracking something. Went back out, stayed dry, didn't lock up at all. 5 miles on side streets with a lot of stop and go and shifting. Might be out of the woods. If so....I'm ecstatic. Still a little skeptical, but.....can ya blame me? Stay tuned......
 
Oh well. Wishful thinking. Took a highway run. Lost all pressure in the lever. So much that I can pull it all the way in and still accelerate. It pumps right back up so I can make it home. Still the intermittent lock up from 2 to 3rd. Could it be my clutch? Why would I still lose pressure? The whole hydraulic system is new.

Which kind of reminds me of this....

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/up-shift-problem.19736/
 
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What about the tranny oil level? I guess with the low level you had, the gearbox got too hot and there may be worn parts by now. Don’t see the reference to the problems with the clutch, but sure to the shifting problems...
 
Bitfan60 Call David Coote and describe all of your symptoms to him over the phone ! He can give you advice , you need help . I will PM his number to you .
 
I'm clutching at straws here but.... your new master/reservoir, non-leaking pipe/banjo's, new slave then everything should be rock solid and stay that way. Have you fitted after-market leavers? Or replaced/adjusted the pin pushrod that connects clutch lever to master? If this is out of adjustment then it's possible that the small brake fluid inlet/outlet holes from master to reservoir are not being covered correctly by the master seals. If everything else is std/adjusted correctly then that just leaves the clutch itself.
 
MxMartin said:
I'm clutching at straws here but.... your new master/reservoir, non-leaking pipe/banjo's, new slave then everything should be rock solid and stay that way. Have you fitted after-market leavers? Or replaced/adjusted the pin pushrod that connects clutch lever to master? If this is out of adjustment then it's possible that the small brake fluid inlet/outlet holes from master to reservoir are not being covered correctly by the master seals. If everything else is std/adjusted correctly then that just leaves the clutch itself.
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It's all new and OEM. The lever and master were already assembled. No leaks. Filled it from the bleed nipple. No air. If it were out of adjustment, it wouldn't work right at all. The bike works great, until it doesn't. I'm guessing clutch. Let's not forget, the dealership that said they changed my fluids....tranny was almost empty and filthy. Engine oil is still full and clean after 1500 miles. Seems the faster I go, the worse it gets. No pressure. Side streets and going through the gears works pretty well. Better with the new master.
 
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