Scooped a '72 Commando today
- Thread starter Munkybarz
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I hope it's a fast back.
I think your signature is right.
AC.
I think your signature is right.
AC.
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Munkybarz,fish up at Georgian Bay regularly,just had a Coldwater salmon dinner last evening for 10 guests.So get those numbers to us and photos , Crazy Combat awaits.
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Munkybarz said:
Okay, I did the Photobucket thing and I've got a few images. These were taken right after my pal and his Dad delivered the bike. It's a 1972 Norton Commando Roadster in Signal Red. The numbers on the frame, engine and tranny are all the same (2040XX) which puts it squarely in Combat territory. This unmolested survivor is the bike I've been waiting for since I was 8, let's just say that it left the factory when I was 8! Anyway, I haven't done a whole lot so far on this one, but as with the couple dozen other bikes I've restored over the years there will be a few things to learn along the way, some things that will be 'uniquely Norton' I'm sure. It isn't going to get done the quick way, but the right way (here's hoping)
Thanks in advance for your, guidance, patience etc.
-Bill
Personally, looking like that one does, I'd just get the mechanicals right, and the electrics, deal with any issues and just ride the thing. It looks to be in great condition.
Better that than another over restored blingy Commando on the road. No offence intended. It really looks good.
Better that than another over restored blingy Commando on the road. No offence intended. It really looks good.
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Ditto .
C'est Magnifique
These Boots are made for walking . . .
C'est Magnifique
These Boots are made for walking . . .
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Fullauto said:
Thanks Fullauto, You're a mind reader in your spare time? Because just a hour agoI went out into the garage and thought exactly the same thing. Why do a total resto? Screw that! I could do the judicious 'once over' thorough check, get everything in order and plate it and boogie. I happen to have an in-the-box-brand-new Tri-Spark ignition and coils that were slated for my 69 T120R, sorry but she's not gonna get it, we know where it's going now. I have a fresh pair of Dunlop K81's waiting in the wings too. It won't take to much to get this one on the road, and as we have a rather limited riding season in Ontario, I've got til May to do it all. No worries mate!
Munkybarz said:
That someone thinks this bike needs restored is ridiculous, looks like all it needs is to be ridden.
In fact taking original bikes like this and putting them through the blasting-powdercoat mill is a sin and will decrease the value.
If all you are going to do is clean it up, change the oil and tires and battery, and replace some decals, then I would not call that a restoration but regular maintenance..
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well he could always make it into a mon0-shocker single swing arm thing, those seem to be popular :roll:
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Thanks for the comment beng, I'm just so used to picking up clapped out relics and restoring them that I thought about it for this one, but not for very long. Nope, it would be an epic waste of time and money, and yes, it could/would actually have a negative effect on the value. JSYK I know the difference between regular maintenance and restoration.
rvich
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OK, so we have decided you don't get to molest the bike. But there are some things you should do to it.
A few years back I bought a nice 750 and spent my first winter with it much like you are going to with yours. Here is a photo of the bike the day I brought it home.
I basically went through all the major groups except I did not tear down the engine. It was showing 185 lbs of compression on both cylinders and I decided it could wait to see what it looked like inside.
1.) The electrical system needed help. The rubber block connector under the tank was melted into a lump and the metal sleeves in most of the connectors were cracked. The switches all needed cleaned and on one I had to re-solder a wire that was breaking. While at it I installed a Tri-spark which allowed me to get rid of a lot of connections and so I stripped the tape off the harness in sections and removed unwanted wire and retaped it. This was a hugely successful mission and I highly recommend some time spent in this area.
2.) Layshaft bearing in the transmission. It is a well known problem and maybe yours has been upgraded. Maybe not. It is cheap and easy to get in there and put in a new one. But you have to take a fair amount of stuff apart if you want to remove the tranny. Its OK because you can check all that stuff while you are at it. Might as well put new seals and gaskets in the tranny while you are there and see if there is anything else that looks scary.
3.) Since you are going to remove the tranny, might as well pull the primary transmission apart, clean up the clutch plates and put a cluth rod seal on it. While you are there you can check the chain for stretch and check the clearance on the alternator rotor.
4.) Yup, while you are taking that stuff apart you might as well pull down the rear isolastics and renew them.
5.) No reason not to pull the swingarm pin and see what kind of shape its in. Might as well invest in Kegler Clamps or figure out how to do your own mod to keep the swingarm pin from wiggling around inside a worn cradle. To do a good job here you need to drop the rear wheel but that's OK because....
6.) You wanted to check the bearings and brake shoes in the rear hub anyway.
7.) Might as well check the bearings and or replace them on the front hub too.
8.) Since you have the front wheel off, you might want to at least clean up the fork dampers and get new oil in them, or tear them down for inspection. It is NOT hard.
9.) Any leaks in the master cylinder are going to ruin your paint so you might as well rebuild or upgrade the master cylinder and the caliper. If nothing else get a stainless steel hose for it, the original one swells horribly when you apply the brake.
We really haven't spent much money yet...but most of these things are on the maintenance list and need to be done sometime anyway.
10.) Might as well pull the timing cover off, check the chain, and put some new seals in there. While the primary side is off you can put a new main seal on the crank too. Also, while in the timing side cover might as well service the oil pump.
11.) Rebuild those carbs paying attention to the idle circuit and the needles and jets.
12.) The biggest favor I did for myself on my bike was new shocks. It made a shocking difference. That and the Tri-spark were the only big money items.
13.) I didn't mention the front isolastic but you are gonna want to do it while you are doing the rear one, or at least inspect and adjust it. There is an upgrade for a vernier system instead of shims. Your call. The headsteady is universally agreed that it should be upgraded except by a silent group of die hards.
So guys, what did I miss?
You will eventually run across the idea of a breather (reed) valve on the crankcase.
My original rims are still on the bike, the chrome looks good but inside they were so rusty I had trouble getting my new sticky tires to seat. I ended up taking a wire wheel to them and then painting the inside of the rim before I finally got the bead to pop into place.
Anyway, tires, goodies, new bearings, seals, etc. cost about a thousand bucks by the time I was done. Not bad really considering none of that had been done to the bike for at least 20 years.
Russ
A few years back I bought a nice 750 and spent my first winter with it much like you are going to with yours. Here is a photo of the bike the day I brought it home.
I basically went through all the major groups except I did not tear down the engine. It was showing 185 lbs of compression on both cylinders and I decided it could wait to see what it looked like inside.
1.) The electrical system needed help. The rubber block connector under the tank was melted into a lump and the metal sleeves in most of the connectors were cracked. The switches all needed cleaned and on one I had to re-solder a wire that was breaking. While at it I installed a Tri-spark which allowed me to get rid of a lot of connections and so I stripped the tape off the harness in sections and removed unwanted wire and retaped it. This was a hugely successful mission and I highly recommend some time spent in this area.
2.) Layshaft bearing in the transmission. It is a well known problem and maybe yours has been upgraded. Maybe not. It is cheap and easy to get in there and put in a new one. But you have to take a fair amount of stuff apart if you want to remove the tranny. Its OK because you can check all that stuff while you are at it. Might as well put new seals and gaskets in the tranny while you are there and see if there is anything else that looks scary.
3.) Since you are going to remove the tranny, might as well pull the primary transmission apart, clean up the clutch plates and put a cluth rod seal on it. While you are there you can check the chain for stretch and check the clearance on the alternator rotor.
4.) Yup, while you are taking that stuff apart you might as well pull down the rear isolastics and renew them.
5.) No reason not to pull the swingarm pin and see what kind of shape its in. Might as well invest in Kegler Clamps or figure out how to do your own mod to keep the swingarm pin from wiggling around inside a worn cradle. To do a good job here you need to drop the rear wheel but that's OK because....
6.) You wanted to check the bearings and brake shoes in the rear hub anyway.
7.) Might as well check the bearings and or replace them on the front hub too.
8.) Since you have the front wheel off, you might want to at least clean up the fork dampers and get new oil in them, or tear them down for inspection. It is NOT hard.
9.) Any leaks in the master cylinder are going to ruin your paint so you might as well rebuild or upgrade the master cylinder and the caliper. If nothing else get a stainless steel hose for it, the original one swells horribly when you apply the brake.
We really haven't spent much money yet...but most of these things are on the maintenance list and need to be done sometime anyway.
10.) Might as well pull the timing cover off, check the chain, and put some new seals in there. While the primary side is off you can put a new main seal on the crank too. Also, while in the timing side cover might as well service the oil pump.
11.) Rebuild those carbs paying attention to the idle circuit and the needles and jets.
12.) The biggest favor I did for myself on my bike was new shocks. It made a shocking difference. That and the Tri-spark were the only big money items.
13.) I didn't mention the front isolastic but you are gonna want to do it while you are doing the rear one, or at least inspect and adjust it. There is an upgrade for a vernier system instead of shims. Your call. The headsteady is universally agreed that it should be upgraded except by a silent group of die hards.
So guys, what did I miss?
You will eventually run across the idea of a breather (reed) valve on the crankcase.
My original rims are still on the bike, the chrome looks good but inside they were so rusty I had trouble getting my new sticky tires to seat. I ended up taking a wire wheel to them and then painting the inside of the rim before I finally got the bead to pop into place.
Anyway, tires, goodies, new bearings, seals, etc. cost about a thousand bucks by the time I was done. Not bad really considering none of that had been done to the bike for at least 20 years.
Russ
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