Running Barnett Clutch Plates Dry?

The old expression "knowing just enough to be dangerous" seems to apply here.

It seems I didn't do sufficient research on installing Barnett clutch plates and I did not soak them before I installed them.

The clutch is working superbly. I put 7 oz of type F transmission fluid in the primary so I don't anticipate the place getting wet.

Is this likely to cause problems?

Dan1950 said:

The old expression "knowing just enough to be dangerous" seems to apply here.

It seems I didn't do sufficient research on installing Barnett clutch plates and I did not soak them before I installed them.

The clutch is working superbly. I put 7 oz of type F transmission fluid in the primary so I don't anticipate the place getting wet.

Is this likely to cause problems?

Click to expand...

They'll be fine

Don't be surprised if the fluid still finds it's way into the clutch. But it will be fine. I run 5 oz in mine and it still gets in.

Derek Wilson said:

Don't be surprised if the fluid still finds it's way into the clutch. But it will be fine. I run 5 oz in mine and it still gets in.

Click to expand...

I figured that, I was just concerned about possible damage from heat in the interim.

You don't need to soak them if you've bought the kit meant for the Commando - I queried this with them when I got mine (as I didn't buy direct from Barnett, and there were no instructions).

...in fact they said that if I did soak them, and I had the bought the stack height up using a thicker or extra steel plate (which I did), I would probably have issues getting the circlip to seat properly in the basket.

As long as you don't slide the clutch too much, you should be fine.

Dan1950 said:

Is this likely to cause problems?

Click to expand...

Nope.

I run mine dry… and I mean dry… as in no oil or ATF in there (belt drive).

I’ve assembled them by soaking them and I’ve assembled them bone dry and honestly couldn’t tell any difference.

I run mine totally FLOODED. As in purposely overfilled with DEXRON (not Type "F"). On purpose. The absolute BEST no-slip/no-drag/linear engagement/easy pull clutch ever on the first try. Thanks to DynoDave's write ups. The information contained there was SPOT ON. Thanks Dave!

Anyone who HASN'T read these links below, you should.

I bought mine from Commando Specialities. (I think)

They came in the Barnett packaging with instructions and the only reference I can remember was the options of using type F as opposed to regular ATF with the emphasis on type F for more aggressive engagement.

I'll have another look at the instructions when I get home.

I've always been amused at the statement that the Commando clutch is "supposed to be" a dry clutch. That would mean that Norton designers were totally clueless and didn't realize that the clutch would get "wet" when enclosed in the chain case with the chain running through an oil bath, carrying the oil DIRECTLY to the clutch basket and flinging it hither and yon.

I have found that properly installed/adjusted, the stock clutch works great - easy pull and no slippage when disengaged. I use ATF, but I can't recall that there was a significant difference when I switched from engine oil to ATF. I switched because there were posts that it was better!

Hmmm... I also replaced my OEM charging system to Podtronics because of posts that it was better. But it isn't.

I DO prefer the ATF because of the color difference compared to engine oil so leaks are easier to identify.

CNW encourages the use of Barnett clutch plates for their belt drive primary.

I have just fitted the ‘easy pull’ Barnett clutch kit from Holland Norton works, fitted perfectly in a s/h Norvil belt kit, substituting one 2mm plate for a 3mm plate. Swapped the lever in the gearbox, looks very similar to original. Clutch is very light compared to my brothers commando, but mine is not a runner yet.
Instructions from Barnett say to soak the plates and recommend oils to use but it would have been nice if it mentioned that if using a belt drive it’s perfectly fine to assemble it all dry.

My experience assembling Barnette plates dry was to have the clutch plates stick after sitting for a few days. I had to disassemble the clutch and pry the plates apart with a sharp tool. This was for an Atlas, so maybe different from Commando.

BTW, if there is sufficient oil in the primary for the chain to dip (and useless to have less), oil will eventually wet the plates. I have found oil in the clutch hub soaking the cush drive rubbers.

Slick

Stephen Hill said:

CNW encourages the use of Barnett clutch plates for their belt drive primary.

Click to expand...

Because they are readily available, have a soft aluminum host plate.
Both good reasons.
Consumable item.

Not sure why you would flood your primary with oil, the 7 floz n the primary was designed to splash the chain not soaking the chain with oil even running only 5 floz in the primary will be enough to slash on the chain.
Motor oil in the primary is not design to run in clutches and when I brought my Norton new the recommended motor oil at the time was GTX, wasn't long before having slipping clutch or sticking clutch plates so finding a lighter oil to run in the primary was a big task, I only ran GTX oil in my motor for a short time before going to straight 50 grade Pennzol for our hot climate and the ATF-F brand was the best for the primary and clutch as the F brand is designed for the early Fords with clutch plates in their transmission and why it works so well in out Norton primaries, enough to splash the chain and keep it lubed and not enough to upset the clutch plates.
For the first 5 years I always had problems with slipping clutch but after turning to ATF-F I haven't had any problems with sticking or slipping clutch plates and to this day am still running my original clutch plates in my Norton, the clutch centre was only replaced about 13 years ago for the first time as well the pressure plate.
My original clutch plates have well over 150k miles on them and is a one finger operation if I wanted to its a very light clutch ever since new, I don't use a clutch rod seal as I measure how much oil goes into my GB that my book recommends and have never had GB oil find its way into my primary, I also put grease on my clutch rod before installing and I run a sealed clutch bearing.
The good thing about ATF in the primary if you have red oil dripping from your primary cover you know about it straight away where it's coming from and not your motor or GB as your GB oil be clean compared to motor oil.
As well with pre M111 Norton never over tighten the centre primary outer cover, if it leaks and tightening up too tight might mean you need to replace the cover rubber seal.

concours said:

Because they readily available, have a soft aluminum host plate.
Both good reasons.
Consumable item.

Click to expand...

I run a slightly thicker anodized aluminum pressure plate as well...