RPM climbing and falling

Had my first ride out on the Norton this weekend, lets just say it wasn't so slow so was using the top end of the rev range, but when I came to a stop the rev's were going between 2000 & 1200, switched the engine off and left to cool. restarted rev's were sitting at 1200, way I went again stopped after another 14 miles rev's still at 1200, anybody else seen this.

Yes, but my 2013 was fitted with decatted long pipes before any remapping was available in the states. Once I went from map 77 to 90, that cleared up. And in hot weather, it may go to 2400 and stay there. Sometimes just turning off the bike and restarting will correct the condition. Not sure if your problem is the same, but you are not alone. Hang in there. Get the bike sorted out and you'll love it.

Hi Britfan60, Mines a 2016, have got the decat pipe plus the short motads. it was mapped by the factory last year, don't know which map they put in.
only things I have done over the winter are install the vent kit, new Bosch coil packs & iridium plugs so was hoping someone else has seen this how hasn't done these upgrades, I was kind of thinking it may be one of the butterfly valves in the air intake sticking slight lee open thus letting to much air in on one side.

You got it. Adjust the butterfly as per my manual. Be sure to install a jam nut or it will happen again. Let us know.

Funny you should mention that. I recently put in the Bosch coils and wires and the bike ran superbly from start, ride to finish. Then I installed the iridium plugs last week and the bike did the same thing...fluctuated between 1500 and 2400 rpm for about 3-4 minutes then settled down to 1600, still too high. This was the first start with the new plugs. I let it run for about 6 minutes. Then I turned the bike off, restarted, problem went away. Its been running really well, except for another niggle. I started the bike, heard a backfire, then hard starting. Kept stalling (and of course that was in front of a bunch of bikers admiring my Norton) That was the first and only ride so far with the Iridums. I don't think it will pose a problem, but we'll see. Have to wait for the snow to stop. Totally digging the coils and wires. Good luck.

We found that 2015 and older bikes have a back fire issue that we feel is related to the throttle body vacuum lines not being clamped and only pushed on. Also, on some of them there is another port that was plugged but can fly out. The newer ones do not have this throttle body issue. And its an easy fix if you do have an older one. Just check all the lines are nice and tight. Also, look for air leaks around throttle body and even exhaust. Check exhaust header nuts are not loose. If all else fails, put back in the other plugs and if the issue goes away if it does then its a bad plug or the gap is wrong. Could have been dropped or squished. Hope this helps.

Richard, the 2016 bikes are the same, my rubber pipe came off, no power down below & kept back firing, jubilee clip fitted now.

Britfan60 said:

Have to wait for the snow to stop.

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I'm sure. My driveway was almost clear before Stella arrived. :roll:

richard-7 said:

We found that 2015 and older bikes have a back fire issue that we feel is related to the throttle body vacuum lines not being clamped and only pushed on. Also, on some of them there is another port that was plugged but can fly out. The newer ones do not have this throttle body issue. And its an easy fix if you do have an older one. Just check all the lines are nice and tight. Also, look for air leaks around throttle body and even exhaust. Check exhaust header nuts are not loose. If all else fails, put back in the other plugs and if the issue goes away if it does then its a bad plug or the gap is wrong. Could have been dropped or squished. Hope this helps.

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Only time that ever happened. Ran great all the way home (50 miles) If it repeats a few times, I'll go back with the regular plugs. Nothings loose although I did find that idle flange thing (name escaping me as I type,,sigh) the screws backed out and it did run a little quirky, but that was last year. I always check those now. Its almost as if it flooded for some reason and it blew itself out.

contours said:

Britfan60 said:

Have to wait for the snow to stop.

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I'm sure. My driveway was almost clear before Stella arrived. :roll:

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We got gypped on the Island. Was supposed to get 12-18" of snow, only got 5" of mucky slush, sleet and 50mph winds. Doesn't look good for a while. Staying cold, going to Fla. next week.

We got 2 feet, I have to remember its only mid March. Back to the subject! With my original map if I banged thru gears and stayed over 6000 RPM riding it like I stole it, it would sometimes idle at 2000-2200 RPM on warm days! If I rode a couple of miles normally or shut down for a few minutes it would return to normal. It has never done this since I re-mapped it.

I believe it could be the map or the pot screw for butterfly is open too far, needs to go counterclock wise. If the bike starts stalling you've gone too far!

Smudge, it would help us help you if you would include a location in your signature!

BPHORSEGUY said:

We got 2 feet, I have to remember its only mid March. Back to the subject! With my original map if I banged thru gears and stayed over 6000 RPM riding it like I stole it, it would sometimes idle at 2000-2200 RPM on warm days! If I rode a couple of miles normally or shut down for a few minutes it would return to normal. It has never done this since I re-mapped it.

I believe it could be the map or the pot screw for butterfly is open too far, needs to go counterclock wise. If the bike starts stalling you've gone too far!

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The lock nut (jam nut) is key to this working. Vibration moves it and you will be chasing your tail. Been there done that.

Hi Richard

Are you saying that all bikes require a lock screw? I played with mine before they first changed the throttle bodies and I've just got it in with the dealer again after the remap it wet great for awhile then started stalling and was hard to start, reset ignition and it would go,
I rode it to the dealer about 200km and it rained half that distance and also started running on one pot during rain. Soon as rain stop back on two then rain same thing.
I have used the dialetric grease on all connections plus some silicon spray.
The bike is nearly out of warranty so that's why I took it down the said all issues were related to ECU and have put an omex one in now and say that will fix the problem or all the problems.
The bike was ready yesterday but it has been flogging rain with high winds so I opted out on picking it up.
So when I get it back assuming it will be good should I put a nut on ( what size and thread) straight away and now the bike is out of warranty is there any particular area that I should target to prevent water ingress if this problem still persists because I pretty much did every connection I could find, just reading on the forum it doesn't seem to be that much of an issue with other bikes.
Cheers

At the factory they PEEN it in place. If you read my manual you will see the two factory peen dots. Problem is, once you touch it once, it will be loose for ever unless you peen it again or install a lock nut. The majority of issues started when the maps first came out there was confusion as to screw that out one turn. Then the issues started with idle climbs and such. The ecu actually controls the idle. If that butterfly is too far out of range ecu cannot compensate. Also, the ecu needa a zero starting point which it gets from the TPI. HENCE why you dont touch the throttle at start or ecu thinks the butterfly is in a different position than it really is. Screws up the air mixture. Hope this helps. Off hand I cannot remember the nut size. Its probaly in my manual. 4 or 6 mm. I think.

The throttle bodies were tapped for an interference fit to the pot screw and I guess some are looser then others and the factory used a prick punch to try and tighten some of them. I believe the screw is M3 x .5 but I will check for sure when I get a chance.

Thanks Richard I'll try lock it place when I get it home.

A little dusty in there . Notice the grub screw plugging the hole.

I will be installing spring clamps on all unclamped hose connections .

Coming next : oil/air separator relocation (to current factory spot) and installation of oil feed line in-line filter (current production factory filter) .

Just put the lock nut on mine it's a 4mm nut. Had to buy a 7 mm spanner to hold it and my wife held the throttle open so I could get at it, bit fiddley but easy enough.
Cheers.