Roadster/Interstate/Thruxton R tank (2020)

Status
Not open for further replies.
worntorn said:
Then on to forming the tank bottom. The bottom needs to be large enough and shaped correctly to clear everything down below, carbs, head steady, frame members etc. At the same time, any extra clearance means a loss of capacity. I want decent capacity, hopefully 16 litres +-.
The worst though would be to have inadequate clearance and have a spot that rubs metal on metal. The top of the u shape should be the only thing touching other than the two front mount bolt flanges.
All of those points will sit on rubber just like the standard tanks.
Getting around the frame members took lots of pounding.

Click to expand...

How much steering lock do you get with your new tank and reduced offset yokes ?
I fitted 40mm offset yokes on my commando and that was ok with a fastback tank but when that melted I fitted a roadster tank,I had to severely restrict the steering to avoid hitting the tank to the point where it was really hard to manover out of my shed! Or even turn a sharp corner
So I moved the tank and seat back 20mm to get some steering lock back
Cheers
 
It's set up for about 70 degrees of sweep, total. More would be nice but 70 is OK.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
It's set up for about 70 degrees of sweep, total. More would be nice but 70 is OK.

Glen
Click to expand...
That's good ,way better than I had with the roadster tank
I'm in awe of your skill building this tank btw
Keep us posted , brilliant stuff
 
The bottom is in. It was almost as much work as the top skin. If it had to look beautiful it would be more work than the top skin!

Woodworking clamps come in handy-
 
The SCM sliding panel saw is ideal for trimming to a flat plane on the appropriate bevel.

Here's the profile I ended up with. After all the brutality of shaping metal with Hammers and wheels, I'm surprised that it is still quite symmetrical.


End cap on
 
I plan to fit two 1/4 taps and will run with both open. The left one will be a three position tap with 2.5" standpipe. It should give about 20 miles reserve capacity, if Ive calculated correctly.

Glen
 
Next item is the front mudguard. I'm partial to the look of some of the blade type mudguards, however I suspect they aren't great when riding in heavy rain. I seem to do a fair bit of that. We always have at least one rain day on a long trip.
So I will make a full coverage type full mudguard.
I thought about taking the easy route and purchasing a ready made item, but chances are the radius wouldn't be a perfect match. On top of that the blank cost $11 and the ready made polished fender in this size was about $250 shipped. Best get at it.
Laid out for blocking ( hammering shape in)
 
The outer line is the tire radius plus 1/2" for clearance.
The inner line is the planned curve of the outside edge of the mudguard, parallel to the tire crown. It works out to 1 5/8" of crown.
 
The anvil used for shrinking the edge pleats. I use a leather faced slapper for this. You don't want to hit too hard, just enough to gather the pleats into a newly thickened, smooth edge.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top