Right stuff is the wrong stuff

Can also tie a nail on a cord to straddle access holes to jerk/pull on like a hick in the woods. Primary case is big heat sink to try to get heated enough swelling to matter till whole engine and cradle mass reaching similar temps so lots of electricity or torch gas and time trying that wasteful effort. If running can let combustion heat whole mass for half a heating chance of release. ATF don't bother the stator resin & niether should gasoline.

A couple of suggestions.
If the sealant is silicone based, would any of the silcone eater products be worth trying?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-EVBSI ... B0012XFD4M
is the sort of thing, others may be able to recommend specific products which are better ... Guys?

As far as razor blades, I'm imagining the double sided safety razor type (I've not shaved since 1969, so no expert), but perhaps the single sided corrux type which have a stiffener along the back will be more rigid, and allow more force to be applied with a bit more safety. Although obsolete, I bought some on ebay a couple of years ago, they are good for cutting balsa for model making.
Another option, extrapolating from that, is the Swann Morton surgical knife, which has a plethora of different blade types.
http://www.swann-morton.com/product_range/1.php

thin shaving razors only good for cleaning hair and old sealant off and leveling JBW before set up but for stuck seams this is what I depend on and whack on w/o any damage to me or stuck up seams. Does help to know where dowels or other interferences are to limit how far in and where to pound them in.

nickguzzi said:

A couple of suggestions.
If the sealant is silicone based, would any of the silcone eater products be worth trying?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-EVBSI ... B0012XFD4M
is the sort of thing, others may be able to recommend specific products which are better ... Guys?

Click to expand...

Good suggestion on the Silicone Eater. I can add the following regarding Silicone Eater.

Silicone polymers are depolymerized back to monomer in the presence of either a strong acid or strong base, so the monomer that forms upon depolymerization serves to plasticize the rubber, thereby softening it and allowing removal.

Looked up the MSDS on Silicone Eater where a CAS (Chemical Abstracts Service) registry number was given and found the active ingredient is an alkylbenzene sulfonic acid - a relatively strong acid. The product appears to be a thickened non-sag aqueous solution containing the subject acid. The tech data sheet says it is safe to use on Al, but with the caveat to test before using and to not leave it on a substrate for more than 4 hours. IMHO I'd probably shy away from this one as it's just too strong an acid and I wouldn't want it around my bike. Perhaps best to opt for the combination of modest stress on the joint, via a jacking mechanism, in combination with swelling.

If I employed a razor blade for the purpose of "wedging" into the joint it would be the ubiquitous single-sided blade, as I don't think you can get much thinner and have the desired blade integrity. The heavier duty dual-ended blades for cardboard knives are much heavier stock and IMHO too thick to attempt driving into the joint.

Thanks for all the advice...I finally got the cover off but in a different way... Dan Hudson came by and we tried
a different approach. Put all the inspection plugs back in the cover and put a shot of ether in the level check plug and lit that baby off..it blew the cover right off and I caught the cover ....and Dan caught me! No damage anywhere...Yeah! No more "Right Stuff" for me.
Thanks so much for all the help/suggestions from everyone... Now back to work on Queeny!
Thanks again,
Rod

The ether was to keep from having to wait on the Hobot expanding beans idea. Fast expansion of burning ether made leaks irrelevant. I'm just hoping we didn't distort the inner cover too much. Lots of fun for a Monday, I was thinking about how great it would have been to have Hobot there for the big bang.

I would have almost rode down from Fayetteville to see that. Glad you got it off.

I would like to know about residue removal since that stuff sounds like a PITA.

Scott

Put all the inspection plugs back in the cover and put a shot of ether in the level check plug and lit that baby off..it blew the cover right off and I caught the cover ....and Dan caught me!

Click to expand...

Say What Rod! Hot Dang why didn't I think of that that. Shame on you for no video. Dan is the Man. Beans would not be nearly as satisfying. Will try el bango on next AMC otter cover break free. Propane would work too.

Britbike850 said:

Thanks for all the advice...I finally got the cover off but in a different way... Dan Hudson came by and we tried
a different approach. Put all the inspection plugs back in the cover and put a shot of ether in the level check plug and lit that baby off..it blew the cover right off and I caught the cover ....and Dan caught me! No damage anywhere...Yeah! No more "Right Stuff" for me.
Thanks so much for all the help/suggestions from everyone... Now back to work on Queeny!
Thanks again,
Rod

Click to expand...

Awesome! Delighted with your success. Had a related thought yesterday as I was mulling over potato canons and how a simple shot of Aqua Net hair spray in a PVC canon can propel a potato at lethal velocity, and how this might fix you up - but didn't mention it here for obvious safety reasons. Well now we have another tool in the kit for those problematic tire beads that simply refuse to be sealed for initial inflation. BOOM!

Hobot will the bean idea work for dents in a gas tank?

yep if not creased crumpled and keep control of water amounts not to split tank, unless want to to beat crumples out but then big bang better. After beetles clean a skeleton beans in skull can dismantle w/o damage. plastic molds killing the craft off.

Must be honest here, i never considered TNT :lol: You where lucky the sealant had a lower yield point than the explosion :!:

OK…I'm glad you got it off but did you REALLY do that or is the account just an inventive re-imagining of what really happened for the benefit of any future movie rights?

New gasket and grease next time?

mike996 said:

OK…I'm glad you got it off but did you REALLY do that or is the account just an inventive re-imagining of what really happened for the benefit of any future movie rights?

Click to expand...

Hey Rod,
I think our cover is blown! mike996 nailed us. John Robert: We actually did your 5/16 tap and grub screw idea. We taped the 3 rear-most holes. After starting the threads in all 3 holes (5/16 UNC - 18, not UNF - 24 since that would increase the inside diameter of the hole more than the NC thread.--.017 difference to be exact) we cut off the tap to make a "bottoming tap." With the new bottoming tap we finished off the threads all the way down. The cover came off when we were taping the rear hole just below the center line. I think that is the one with the Dowel pin and since I didn't know the pin was there I was trying to tap a bit deeper and the cover levered free.

Sorry guys, I didn't think anyone would believe our wild story but we had such a laugh just thinking about it when we were working that I suggested to Rod that he work up a story for the forum. :mrgreen:

After posting I suddenly realized that joking around about such serious things like our Nortons just doesn't happen on this forum so I was/am worried that we have crossed some sort of line. Just don't do the ether thing at home unless hobot is there to supervise!!

Cheers, Dan.

Must admit i had a few frowns :roll: Glad it all worked out, Did you inform NASA . Head lines New York times. " Norton clutch cover lands on Moon" :lol:

igniting flammable sprays is common practice on tires here out in the field where not enough air pressure flow from compressor to seat bead to inflate _ in shop they use tank and nozzle to blast tire against rim

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wy0eHjCGZyg