RGM Hi Torque clutch plate conversion (2018)

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As you said yourself, you are trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.
By converting to belt drive, you have automatically converted your existing clutch to a high-torque clutch because there is no oil to reduce the friction coefficient. I would imagine that the torque capacity is now so high that you can afford to reduce it by adjusting the stack height to reduce the spring pressure and give yourself a lighter clutch, as I and others have done.

P.S. I think the term "high-torque" used in the RGM ad. could be a bit of an exaggeration. The way the ad. reads, it seems that it is only "high-torque" relative to a clutch that slips.
When discussing clutches, their ability to hold a certain amount of torque without slipping is standard nomenclature. So, "high torque" would suggest, greater than standard.
 
214 grams is still fairly heavy.

From a previous thread: (https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/clutch-pack-weights.7521/)

"More data:

Bronze plates (5) = 1150 grams
Surflex plates (5) = 853 grams*
Barnet plates (5) = 310 grams*

*these weights reported from distributors."

I weighed an unmodified steel plate and got 176 grams. Sadly I did not record a weight for the ones that are in my clutch pack. I opened up the center holes so that the steel surface area matched the Barnet plates I am using. Which I believe is wider than the "high torque" plates.

Russ
 
Jim, as Felix Unger once said, " One must never ASS-U-ME" , which is what I did, having not actually used the RGM kit.
But, the term high-torque is a bit nebulous unless it is backed up with some figures. Maybe you could supply them with some. :)

blaisestation, sorry for the misunderstanding.
I should have said that in changing from your existing clutch you were trying to solve a problem that didn't exist. You mentioned that your existing clutch was working well. The problems arose with the new clutch. :(
 
An important point to note:
RGM recommends the hi-torque plates for wet clutch use only, NOT belt drive setups.
 
An important point to note:
RGM recommends the hi-torque plates for wet clutch use only, NOT belt drive setups.


I noticed some fine print that said "recommended" for chain not belt. I wonder about that.
 
I was looking at these as my Surflex fibre plates have started to crumble at the teeth area. Has anybody ran these alleged Hi- Torque plates with a belt drive?
Or do I just get another set of Surflex plates but with the teeth clear of friction material?
Barnett !
 
I take that as a recommendation and ok to run dry then, I thought they needed a soaking? Did you swap the steel plates for the narrower ones too?
Yes I run them dry. Had them in the 850 and then the 920.

I‘ve tried soaking them, and fitting them dry, couldn’t tell any difference to be honest, so I now run them bone dry as it just seems more intuitive in a dry primary to me.

I’m running standard type plain plates, I think !
 
The bronze plates worked fine, but they weigh a ton.
Replaced with a set of Barnett plates, these give the gearbox output bearings a easier life.
 
The bronze plates worked fine, but they weigh a ton.
Replaced with a set of Barnett plates, these give the gearbox output bearings a easier life.
I am still running the original stock plates since new 46 years now and still can be one finger clutch if I want to, also ran them for about 5 years with the belt drive, only problem when using dry they tend to grab a bit quicker but all good when you get use to it and have never had any problems with the output bearings, have only replaced the layshaft bearing and my Norton has been a everyday rider for 38 years of its life, semi retired now with well over 160k miles on it.

Ashley
 
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