This might help someone who is just getting started, or is thinking about restoring an old Norton. After finishing (for now) my restoration of a '73 Commando 750, I've listed the things that I would do again, might do again, would not do again, and wish I had done. I 'll also list tools purchased and total cost of the project. I'll be starting my second restoration project very soon ('74 Commando 850).
This first project was a barely running, complete, very ugly bike with lots of crud and a little corrosion. It had been sitting for 10 - 15 years indoors. I made it run and it seemed the engine and trans were in reasonable shape, so I left them alone. This is a list of things I would definitely do again:
Tri-Spark Classic Twin Ignition - works great, exactly as advertised
Mikuni Single Carb Conversion Kit - from Rocky Point Cycle, carbs set up perfectly, no adjustment necessary, runs great
Front Brake Master Cylinder Mod - from Rocky Point Cycle, much better front brake, also rebuilt caliper and used braided steel brake lines
Tach and Speedo Refurb - Mark Bohman did a great job on these
Paint, Tank and Sidecovers - Vintage Vendors, Brent Budgor. They look great!
Oil Tank Mod - Colorado Norton Works
This is a list of things I might do again. They all worked, but I might find a better/more economical way.
Rear Shocks - Hagon
Voltage Regulator - Tri-Spark
Stainless Fasteners (most all) - Rocky Point Cycle
Corbin Gunfighter Seat
Progressive Fork Springs
Oil Pressure Gage Kit - Old Britts. High quality, looks good
Anti-Sump Valve - Rocky Point Cycle. Lots of discussion about this. Note that I also installed an oil pressure gage.
Stainless Peashooter Mufflers - EPCO, purchased as factory seconds from e-bay. Very nice.
Fork Damper Body, Aluminum, Modified - Clubman Racing
Fork Travel Improvement Kit - Decent Cycles. This and damper body above made a significant improvement in fork action. I may try something else next time.
Caswell Tank Sealer - Seemed to work. Time will tell. See discussions on this site.
XS 650 Crancase Vent Valve - Big and ugly, but no more oil leaks.
This is a list of things I will not do again:
Buy cables from an E-Bay vendor -
EMGO rear shocks -
This is a list of things I wish I had done:
Convert to MK III vernier isolastics -
Stripped to bare frame and painted / powder coated entire frame - I tried to spot paint frame. Looks OK until you get close. Mistake!
Built custom wiring harness - with all the ignition mods, there are too many unused wires in the stock harness.
Relaced wheels with stainless spokes and nipples - I'm still going to do this.
Although I have owned and worked on my own bikes for many years and have lots of tools, there were a few tools to buy:
Peg Spanner - Old Britts
Exhaust Nut / Primary Inspection Port Wrench - Old Britts. I really like the exhaust nut wrench. With a long 3/8" breakover bar, you can really tighten down the exhaust nuts.
Clutch Compression Tool - Klempfs. Don't try to remove the clutch without one of these.
Whitworth Thread Gage - Old Britts
Whitworth Socket Set - Klempfs
Whitworth Combination Wrench Set - Klempfs. Get the Whitworth tools. You will need them.
Isolastics Tool - Old Britts
Puller, Clutch Center / Sprocket - Old Britts. You need it to remove the alternator.
I used the following Manuals:
Factory Workshop Manual
Factory Parts Manual
Clymer Manual - Out of print, but available on e-bay. Lots of good pictures.
Mick Hemmings Videos on Engine and Transmission Rebuild - Very good info and intertaining
I used several different vendors and was pleased with them all (except those on e-bay). Old Britts is especially nice to deal with.
I hope this will help someone just beginning their first restoration. These old bikes are pretty simple and straight forward to work on, and fun to ride.
Oh, by the way, I kept very good records of what I spent. (This may have been a big mistake!!) All totalled, including the price of the original bike, I spent $10,872.97 not including expendable supplies.
Good luck!
I'll try to post a picture of the finished bike, if I can figure out how to do it!
Tim
This first project was a barely running, complete, very ugly bike with lots of crud and a little corrosion. It had been sitting for 10 - 15 years indoors. I made it run and it seemed the engine and trans were in reasonable shape, so I left them alone. This is a list of things I would definitely do again:
Tri-Spark Classic Twin Ignition - works great, exactly as advertised
Mikuni Single Carb Conversion Kit - from Rocky Point Cycle, carbs set up perfectly, no adjustment necessary, runs great
Front Brake Master Cylinder Mod - from Rocky Point Cycle, much better front brake, also rebuilt caliper and used braided steel brake lines
Tach and Speedo Refurb - Mark Bohman did a great job on these
Paint, Tank and Sidecovers - Vintage Vendors, Brent Budgor. They look great!
Oil Tank Mod - Colorado Norton Works
This is a list of things I might do again. They all worked, but I might find a better/more economical way.
Rear Shocks - Hagon
Voltage Regulator - Tri-Spark
Stainless Fasteners (most all) - Rocky Point Cycle
Corbin Gunfighter Seat
Progressive Fork Springs
Oil Pressure Gage Kit - Old Britts. High quality, looks good
Anti-Sump Valve - Rocky Point Cycle. Lots of discussion about this. Note that I also installed an oil pressure gage.
Stainless Peashooter Mufflers - EPCO, purchased as factory seconds from e-bay. Very nice.
Fork Damper Body, Aluminum, Modified - Clubman Racing
Fork Travel Improvement Kit - Decent Cycles. This and damper body above made a significant improvement in fork action. I may try something else next time.
Caswell Tank Sealer - Seemed to work. Time will tell. See discussions on this site.
XS 650 Crancase Vent Valve - Big and ugly, but no more oil leaks.
This is a list of things I will not do again:
Buy cables from an E-Bay vendor -
EMGO rear shocks -
This is a list of things I wish I had done:
Convert to MK III vernier isolastics -
Stripped to bare frame and painted / powder coated entire frame - I tried to spot paint frame. Looks OK until you get close. Mistake!
Built custom wiring harness - with all the ignition mods, there are too many unused wires in the stock harness.
Relaced wheels with stainless spokes and nipples - I'm still going to do this.
Although I have owned and worked on my own bikes for many years and have lots of tools, there were a few tools to buy:
Peg Spanner - Old Britts
Exhaust Nut / Primary Inspection Port Wrench - Old Britts. I really like the exhaust nut wrench. With a long 3/8" breakover bar, you can really tighten down the exhaust nuts.
Clutch Compression Tool - Klempfs. Don't try to remove the clutch without one of these.
Whitworth Thread Gage - Old Britts
Whitworth Socket Set - Klempfs
Whitworth Combination Wrench Set - Klempfs. Get the Whitworth tools. You will need them.
Isolastics Tool - Old Britts
Puller, Clutch Center / Sprocket - Old Britts. You need it to remove the alternator.
I used the following Manuals:
Factory Workshop Manual
Factory Parts Manual
Clymer Manual - Out of print, but available on e-bay. Lots of good pictures.
Mick Hemmings Videos on Engine and Transmission Rebuild - Very good info and intertaining
I used several different vendors and was pleased with them all (except those on e-bay). Old Britts is especially nice to deal with.
I hope this will help someone just beginning their first restoration. These old bikes are pretty simple and straight forward to work on, and fun to ride.
Oh, by the way, I kept very good records of what I spent. (This may have been a big mistake!!) All totalled, including the price of the original bike, I spent $10,872.97 not including expendable supplies.
Good luck!
I'll try to post a picture of the finished bike, if I can figure out how to do it!
Tim
