Resealing a steel gas tank with new resin/epoxy?

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jnash

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Hi,
My 73 Norton 850 MKII steel gas tank was internally coated some ( long ) unknown time ago to prevent rusting.
I cannot tell for sure, but it would appear it may now be dissolving somewhat into the gas causing gumming-up in the fuel system.

What are you thoughts on how to proceed with this since there is already a coat on the inside?

The inline filters have caught very fine particles of rust from the tank so I suspect the tank is not 100% covered in resin anymore. When I inspect the tank through the filler it's really hard to tell if there is a coating on the inside or not. The steel surface feels rough, and slightly rusty etc. I see there are a few resin coating systems out there for internal tank restore all with various step processes before the final coat is applied.
My own thought is just to re-do the restoration and follow the instructions.
Any advice, anyone?

Thanks
-Jim
 
Hi Jim,
It sounds like your tank might benefit from electrolysis. I do paintwork for The Classic Bike experience here in Essex, Vermont. Nick over there is the one that does the process. He can explain it way better than me, but in essence a steel rod is placed in the tank, tank is filled with distilled water and the rod is either given a positive or negative charge? The rust inside the tank is then drawn to the rod and takes any liner that might still be in there with it. It can take days to do the process, but in the end, most everything is removed from the interior, then just a light coating of oil preserves it. Trust me when I say I'm not describing this process correctly, but it works. I would recommend contacting him.
Regards,
Brent
www.vintage-vendor.com
 
jbbudgor said:
Hi Jim,
It sounds like your tank might benefit from electrolysis. I do paintwork for The Classic Bike experience here in Essex, Vermont. Nick over there is the one that does the process. He can explain it way better than me, but in essence a steel rod is placed in the tank, tank is filled with distilled water and the rod is either given a positive or negative charge? The rust inside the tank is then drawn to the rod and takes any liner that might still be in there with it. It can take days to do the process, but in the end, most everything is removed from the interior, then just a light coating of oil preserves it. Trust me when I say I'm not describing this process correctly, but it works. I would recommend contacting him.
Regards,
Brent
http://www.vintage-vendor.com
Click to expand...


+1, Jim
 
I have used this process but used Soda crystals in the water, takes a few days and you need to clean the nail/steel anode regularly but you do get a clean tank, you can then introduce some phosphoric acid to turn any remaining rust into iron phosphate and gives an anti rust coating.

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
 
There are many ways to clean rust from tanks. Electrolysis is one of them.
Your failed liner is the first problem you have to solve, and electrolysis is not going to do that for you.
Acetone will remove some liners, but not all.
Then you need to remove the rust.
And then you need to keep the rust from reforming. A new liner is one way to do that. But not the only way.

Stephen Hill
 
Thanks for all the methods to research
Edited: silly me, the threads are on the outside of the tank, i assume some corks could be used to block the holes from the fuel taps ?
Thanks
 
jnash said:
Thanks for all the methods to research
One more question if I may.
During any of these processes and perhaps more so with a resin liner replacement method, how do I protect the threads for the gas taps? I assume I could screw bolts up there?
What's the thread size and pitch on an original Norton tank for the gas taps?
Or does someone have a better idea?
Thanks
Click to expand...

They are a British Parallel pipe thread.

A better idea? Don't use sealant unless you want to go through this again someday. Jim
 
I've used a product called Evaporust with great success to de-rust gas tanks.
A gallon is around $23 but you can use it over and over. It won't harm your skin or your paint, and it's non-toxic.
You'll have to leave it sit 24 hours then rotate your tank to get to all the inside areas of the tank.

If the tank sealer is failing you should first try to determine which brand it is. What color is it?
Most dissolve in acetone or MEK. Maybe a radiator shop could clean it out if you don't care about the paint job.
 
The old liner needs to be removed first. As mentioned MEK or Acetone should do it. Then the rust needs to be removed. I treated a pretty rusty Triumph tank with the POR15 kit ten years ago. The cleaner in the kit removed the rust completely. The tank has had E10 gas in it continuously for over ten years and the liner shows no signs of deterioration. Make sure the tank is thoroughly dry using either a hair dryer or heat gun before puttting the liner material in. Also, I let the tank sit and cure for a month before putting gas in.
 
Man oh man if that much in doubt and engine at risk, cut the dang tank open to be througroh then glue or weld back to together & forgetaboutit. Likely labor saving peace of mind and opportunity to place a baffle as there is an element of slosh thumping that can get through but not felt separately from road vibes so not noticed for what it is, till its gone. If Novalac put on thick like over 1/8" any specs of prior liner not gotten out with become one with the new inside tank structure. A good aceton or MEK flush then heating for long and hot enough even days so no ordor detected will get off anything the Novalac won't stick bond to and help flush remaining prior 'embedded' ethanol out of the factory resin to stop its action permanently. Tank must be in constant motion keeping track of the slow moving wave for like 1/2 hr to set up stiff enough to stop.
 
...or you could just send it to Ross Thompson and let him repair it properly. It will come back perfect.
The previous owner of my Commando had a leak develop and it had been internally coated with Kreem or some such crap.
He sent it to Ross who cut it open, cleaned out the goo, welded the leaks, removed any dents, then welded it back together.
Then he seals it with some black stuff. I think it's POR 15.

Probably the same cost as a new Emgo tank though (unless it's an Interstate) but then you still have your original tank.
Just a thought.

http://www.execulink.com/~rosst/
 
Solved

I tried various methods before settling on this one below that worked well.

1 Gal of acetone to remove the old resin from the tank (home depot $22)
I used sheetrock screws in hot water to remove a lot of loose rust inside the tank.
I then used 1 gal ($23) of Evapo-Rust available from auto-part stores. A very user friendly non toxic de-rusting fluid. This is an impressive product. It worked really well.
Then I used Por15 motorcycle full tank repair kit ($63) and followed the instructions carefully.
Inside of the tank looks and feels great. its fixed!
Thanks everyone.

-Jim Nash
 
Re: Solved

jnash said:
I tried various methods before settling on this one below that worked well.

1 Gal of acetone to remove the old resin from the tank (home depot $22)
I used sheetrock screws in hot water to remove a lot of loose rust inside the tank.
I then used 1 gal ($23) of Evapo-Rust available from auto-part stores. A very user friendly non toxic de-rusting fluid. This is an impressive product. It worked really well.
Then I used Por15 motorcycle full tank repair kit ($63) and followed the instructions carefully.
Inside of the tank looks and feels great. its fixed!
Thanks everyone.

-Jim Nash
Click to expand...

I went thru this with my Atlas tank. I agree with Jim Nash on first three steps, and with Comnoz on not using a sealer again.

A product called Metal Rescue is similar to Evaporate-Rust.....either one should do.

Slick
 
We found the best way to keep tanks from rusting was keep em full and use regularly.

Dereck

ps my tanks are filled at home as soon as I get home.
 
Had the same problem, although mine was caused by Kalifornia's great gas as it ate away the tank liner after I'd left it sitting too long. Used the non-toxic EvapoRust as well on several old dirt bikes & it worked fantastic. Don't have to worry about sealing as they're 2 strokes and the oil mix will keep it nice going forward. Either keep it full and used on a regular basis or drain it for storage.
 
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