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Makes sense. Still awaiting damages photo.
Replacement Crankcases
- Thread starter tribonnie
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No hurry. That pinion gear puller can get damaged where the grabber tips that go around backside of the gear. Make sure they are fully closed and seated deep . I've seen one bad as it slipped off the gear.
I got the puller for this job. Getting it on just right took a little fiddling. As hobot said, I also found it to be not so tight on the crankshaft, but tight enough to need the proper puller.
I do not see any forthcoming catastrophic events in my near future for me to need this puller again. Most likely when a breakdown (so to speak) for the lightweight rods and pistons from JS, but not for a couple years or so.
I do not see any forthcoming catastrophic events in my near future for me to need this puller again. Most likely when a breakdown (so to speak) for the lightweight rods and pistons from JS, but not for a couple years or so.
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hehehe, we all feel that way Pete, till suddenly not, even if no fault but starting up. One the worse blow ups from flywheel I've ever read was 850 just sitting in drive way at warm up idle to damage car and home across the street. If case half is really cracked through its structural strength areas, Its old school tradition to just replace a half shell and Maney used to do so but its over kill on non racers so no market and dropped that offering. Norton didn't have best quality control and life long builders can list the out of spec menu but seems most good enough to just slap any two comparable halves together and get back at using up another something or other.
concours
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"Brit bike cases are made of good alloy that weld well as my local alloy welder keeps telling me (he complains bitterly about Japanese alloy cases)"wakeup said:
"I did some welding on a steel 70's Honda tank. It was steel, and that welded like crap."
Yeah, they made real crap. Recycled Ring-Ding wrappers. :| This is the kind of horseshit internet (and previously beer/bikeshop) lore is built upon, I've welded 40 years, been certified ASME Section III (Nuclear) and VIII (Presssure Vessel) as well as FAA. In the in-between time, I've welded Jap bikes, BMW's, Hardley's, and pretty much anything else friend's/family needed. Hardley cases were always the most contaminated, porous, but very doable when CLEAN. The "lousey Jap casting" (or sheet metal tank) complaint was that of a poor craftsman, a "Shoemaker" as my trade school teacher would call them.
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I had my Commando cases welded after they cracked behind the barrels.
The welder first took them to a chroming plant and put them in their degreasing bath ( trichloroethylene) for TWO WEEKS!! He tells me that after 40 years with oil in the engine, the oil has got into every nook, crevice, and pore. This makes it very hard to weld. It could be why your cases have a poor weld.
It's a shame my welder didn't take the FAG superblends out before he did this because they rusted as soon as the air touched them
The welder first took them to a chroming plant and put them in their degreasing bath ( trichloroethylene) for TWO WEEKS!! He tells me that after 40 years with oil in the engine, the oil has got into every nook, crevice, and pore. This makes it very hard to weld. It could be why your cases have a poor weld.
It's a shame my welder didn't take the FAG superblends out before he did this because they rusted as soon as the air touched them
concours said:
Settle down there concours. Its a fact that Japanese castings did/do corrode badly if the varnish/paint whatever it was got damaged. That is not "horseshit internet lore" I've seen it first hand, with my own eyes, me, personally.
Personally, I think that most Japanese motorcycles, and some of their cars, are better designed and better built than virtually all American and most European makes. But that is just my opinion.
cheers
wakeup
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Just get to work and weld up. If it fails ... I'm thinking dyed water heated for a 
week or so inside bolted cases hot. to ascertain, just do it.
week or so inside bolted cases hot. to ascertain, just do it.
concours
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wakeup said:
LOL Yup, aluminum will corrode badly... just like the old barn find Brits where the engine looks like a head of cauliflower... perhaps the corrosion seen creeping UNDER the failed clearcoat on neglected jap bikes (much like alloy wheels on cars used in road salt areas) is what looks so much different?
Not calling my baby ugly, I've got no dog in this fight, just trying to interject a slight amount of factual information regarding weldability.
Certainly I'll not go down the quality road. Another thread for another day. :shock:
Cheers! :mrgreen:
Japanese castings use a different alloy (with higher zinc levels???) to enable more detailed castings. You only have to look at a bare Japanese casting of say a crankcase half, to see how much more detailed and delicate the detail is. One of the attributes of this material is that it corrodes more quickly than a higher strength alloy as used by Nortons.
All al. alloys corrode, some corrode faster than others, and some corrode in different circumstances. There used to be an advert on the box for Castrol GTX, it told us that "oils ain't oils", well al. alloys ain't al. alloys either, doesn't have such a nice ring to it though.
cheers
wakeup
All al. alloys corrode, some corrode faster than others, and some corrode in different circumstances. There used to be an advert on the box for Castrol GTX, it told us that "oils ain't oils", well al. alloys ain't al. alloys either, doesn't have such a nice ring to it though.
cheers
wakeup
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Big hunks of almost pure Al cases of vintage vs new age alloy over the long run...
http://www.cbxclub.com/davespage/mcy84-1.html
http://www.cbxclub.com/davespage/mcy84-1.html
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