red warning light

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I have a mk3 with leds fitted to dash I have just installed single phase podronics unit and now the red warning light will not go out it just flashes.i have 14 volts charge from alternator and prior to fitting the podronics the led went out above 1500 rpm.
Any advise please
 
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If you still have the incandescent bulbs, try refitting them. If the flashing ceases, it's probably due to the LEDs.
 
Just a thought, the AC input to the (can type) assimilator might be causing the LED to flash. Not sure how the solid state unit works on the later MKIII. I’m with Danno, try a regular bulb, or possibly a resistor on the LED. No idea what size resistor, you will need someone smarter than me for that info.
 
I have a mk3 with leds fitted to dash I have just installed single phase podronics unit and now the red warning light will not go out it just flashes.i have 14 volts charge from alternator and prior to fitting the podronics the led went out above 1500 rpm.
Any advise please
Only 14 volts? should be slightly higher-14.3 - to 14.7 v

Try cleaning the connectors up with some electrical cleaning fluid from Halfords.
 
I put LEDs in my Mk3 dash and the warning (charge) light assimilator apparently couldn't detect enough current draw from the light to work properly. I installed a relay between the the assimilator and the light. The assimilator can detect current draw from the relay, which then turns the light off/on as controlled by the assimilator.
 
The voltage with the engine running will vary based on the charge level of the battery, the temperature, engine rpm, etc - Anything from 13v to 15v+ could be considered "normal" depending on the conditions.

The charging light simply shows whether the battery is charging - light off, or discharging - light on. Since the voltage on fully charged flooded-type 12v battery is around 12.6 v (depending on temperature) any voltage above 12.8 or thereabouts will be "charging" the battery and the light should be off.

I would guess that if no other change was made, it's the LED itself that is not playing well in the system. Frankly, I'd just put the incandescent bulb back in. It's not like there's any useful reduction in electrical power by using an LED there. With the engine running and the charging system operating correctly, the light would not be expected to illuminate at all except maybe at idle if the idle speed is set rather low.
 
The can type assimilator only gets input from one leg of the alternator output. It uses the AC output of that leg to open a connection in the can to shut the light off. If the other leg fails to function properly the light would more than likely still stay off. The solid state version I believe gets input from both legs so it is a little more accurate. It does not get any DC if I am reading the wiring diagram correctly. That is probable why the LED flickers.
 
I'm with Glen, lose the Assimilator and fit a SparkBright voltage indicating LED.
 
The can type assimilator only gets input from one leg of the alternator output. It uses the AC output of that leg to open a connection in the can to shut the light off. If the other leg fails to function properly the light would more than likely still stay off. The solid state version I believe gets input from both legs so it is a little more accurate.

Unfortunately, we don't know which type assimilator it is.


It does not get any DC if I am reading the wiring diagram correctly. That is probable why the LED flickers.

The bulb circuit is DC, powered by the white 'ignition' feed. The standard solid state assimilator also has a separate DC supply (white) wire that "biases the transistor on" and lights the warning lamp.

https://www.nortonownersclub.org/support/technical-support-electrical/warning-light-assimilators
 
Thanks for your advise I will try the various suggestions and feedback how I get on
 
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The bulb circuit is DC, powered by the white 'ignition' feed. The standard solid state assimilator also has a separate DC supply (white) wire that "biases the transistor on" and lights the warning lamp.

https://www.nortonownersclub.org/support/technical-support-electrical/warning-light-assimilators

Les,
Yes, excellent point about the white wire. For some reason I keep thinking that the AC is causing a pulsing in the switching wire and that since LED’s react quicker than incandescent bulbs the LED bulb will flicker. Probably just a whole lot of speculation on my part.
I’ll go back to installing tile in my bathroom before I hurt someone;)
Pete
 
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For some reason I keep thinking that the AC is causing a pulsing in the switching wire and that since LED’s react quicker than incandescent bulbs the LED bulb will flicker.

I think you are probably right about the AC pulse. I'd guess the AC switches the transistor rapidly off and on which reduces the current below the level required for the incandescent bulb to light but not an LED.
 
I agree! So...solution-wise, what's easier, futzing around with additional components/circuitry or just sticking the incandescent bulb back in there? ;)
 
I agree! So...solution-wise, what's easier, futzing around with additional components/circuitry or just sticking the incandescent bulb back in there? ;)


Well, from what welby said, it appears the charge warning LED was there and apparently working normally before the Podtronics was installed so probably better to fit a voltage control unit.
 
AH - OK, I misunderstood - didn't realize it had been working before the Pod was installed. Thanks! :)
 
AH - OK, I misunderstood - didn't realize it had been working before the Pod was installed. Thanks! :)

Thats how I understood it from what Welby said in the first post. I think we got a little sidetracked discussing the workings of the assimilator. ;)
 
To get over this problem I disconnected the red led and tried a normal bulb which worked perfectly.
I then removed the led took and found I could take it apart and installed the standard bulb 06 6431 into the chrome led bulb housing soldering to wires on to the bulb wires.
The warning lights now still match and because the led lights have a nut and spring washer secure nicely.
The warning is as bright as the other warning leds must be because the light from the bulb is now shining through a glass smaller lens.
 
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