Rear Brake Question on '74 Roadster MkII

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thunderbolt

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I took the newly rebuilt rear wheel (stainless rim & spokes & polished hub) to a brake specialist to bond new linings to the shoes and then turn them down to the correct size for the new drum.

When I got it back the brake plate was quite hard to turn around in the drum. I spoke to him over the phone and he said that was normal and would wear in after a couple of hundred miles.

Does this sound normal or should I take it back and have a bit more taken off the linings for a looser fit?

Just how tight should the brake plate be to turn in the brake drum? And no - I am not pushing on the brake lever to push the brake plate around in the drum which would apply the brake.

Thanks
Don
 
No, it'll heat up right away. You must carefully diagnose where the problem occurs. Bearings? (Take the brake shoes out and reassemble to test), etc...
 
Check first that the spring return on the brake arm is not returning the arm so far its operating the brake backwards, move it forward slightly and see if it eases off instead of gripping more. If it eases off then once on the bike with the cable length set correctly it will work fine.
 
thunderbolt said:
I took the newly rebuilt rear wheel (stainless rim & spokes & polished hub) to a brake specialist to bond new linings to the shoes and then turn them down to the correct size for the new drum.

When I got it back the brake plate was quite hard to turn around in the drum. I spoke to him over the phone and he said that was normal and would wear in after a couple of hundred miles.

Does this sound normal or should I take it back and have a bit more taken off the linings for a looser fit?

Just how tight should the brake plate be to turn in the brake drum? And no - I am not pushing on the brake lever to push the brake plate around in the drum which would apply the brake.

Thanks
Don
Click to expand...

No resistance other than the bearings. That's without the chain, of course. Whoever told you it needs to wear in needs his ass worn in.
 
Fast Eddie said:
gortnipper said:
Worth their weight. Great shoe.

http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/rgm-rear ... d_2471.htm
Click to expand...

My RGM shoes were so oversize they wouldn't fit!

Being in a hurry, and not someone who relies too much on the rear brake, I linished them down to fit. Not very elegant, but there you go.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem and the same solution for the same reason small world :D
My drum is standard size so if someone has one that is just a fraction worn or skimmed over size i figure they'd have no issues.
 
toppy said:
Fast Eddie said:
gortnipper said:
Worth their weight. Great shoe.

http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/rgm-rear ... d_2471.htm
Click to expand...

My RGM shoes were so oversize they wouldn't fit!

Being in a hurry, and not someone who relies too much on the rear brake, I linished them down to fit. Not very elegant, but there you go.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem and the same solution for the same reason small world :D
My drum is standard size so if someone has one that is just a fraction worn or skimmed over size i figure they'd have no issues.
Click to expand...

No problems here, just good solid braking. Maybe my drum was skimmed, and it would not surprise me given some of the hacks the PO did. (he says after hacking on the wrong chain guard :oops: )
 
thunderbolt said:
When I got it back the brake plate was quite hard to turn around in the drum. I spoke to him over the phone and he said that was normal and would wear in after a couple of hundred miles.

Does this sound normal or should I take it back and have a bit more taken off the linings for a looser fit?
Click to expand...

With his response, I'd be hesitant to have him do anything more with something as important as my brakes. As others have alluded to, that's hogwash.

In the past, I have seated shoes to the drum by applying a strip of sandpaper on the inside of the drum with double-sided tape, and applying a light brake whilst spinning the wheel by hand. However, if yours is tight to begin with, you won't have room for the sandpaper. You may be stuck with having him re-arc the shoes. Once they fit, I'd still seat them with the sandpaper trick, and don't forget to apply the brake while tightening the axle during the final assembly (I forgot once; makes a big difference). Good luck!

Nathan
 
robs ss said:
gortnipper said:
Worth their weight. Great shoe.

http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/rgm-rear ... d_2471.htm
Click to expand...

Sorry to risk hijacking this thread but anyone know if these shoes fit a John Tickle TLS plate?
Cheers
Rob
Click to expand...

I would contact RGM they do stock parts for John Tickle brake (a friend of mine got some shoes and new springs for his last year) not all are shown on website and some Norton parts are interchangeable but it is not mentioned in description of parts.
 
I have just fitted a pair of RGM shoes to my 74 commando and had the same trouble, could'nt get into drum, so I rang RGM and spoke to Roger and he explained that the shoes are designed not to use the slippers 17a on parts book, when these were taken off everything fitted fine, hope this helps.
 
Mikethebike said:
I have just fitted a pair of RGM shoes to my 74 commando and had the same trouble, could'nt get into drum, so I rang RGM and spoke to Roger and he explained that the shoes are designed not to use the slippers 17a on parts book, when these were taken off everything fitted fine, hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Mine fit perfect on my 72.
 
Mikethebike said:
I have just fitted a pair of RGM shoes to my 74 commando and had the same trouble, could'nt get into drum, so I rang RGM and spoke to Roger and he explained that the shoes are designed not to use the slippers 17a on parts book, when these were taken off everything fitted fine, hope this helps.
Click to expand...

That must be why mine fit right in, and the old Ferodo shoes never had bite - no slippers.
 
These RGM high friction shoes are awesome but for them to work as expected it has been my experience that they need periodical maintenance.
Due to the nature of the hub, oxidization is expected. This dust will imbed in the shoe where on standard type shoe it will be dust in the hub. Its not a big deal and once or twice a year I will open the hub and clear the shoes with a can of brake cleaner. It is truly a very noticeable difference after this simple procedure. Well worth the effort. The safety factor alone should be enough incentive.
 
Mikethebike said:
I have just fitted a pair of RGM shoes to my 74 commando and had the same trouble, could'nt get into drum, so I rang RGM and spoke to Roger and he explained that the shoes are designed not to use the slippers 17a on parts book, when these were taken off everything fitted fine, hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I don't have the slippers in mine and the shoes would not fit by about 10 or 15 thou. I just put my own problem down to manufacturing tolerance of the shoe's which are after all a pattern part and the rest of the brake assembly which is genuine but possibly less constantly made than the shoes causing what was in effect 5 or 8 thou each to much.
 
If you have part worn brake drum there may be a lip formed on the outer diameter of the drum, which might require skimming down on a lathe.
 
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