Rear Brake Pedal Adjustment

I went for a ride today, and found that the rear brake pedal was too high.
Simple job, I thought - I'll adjust it.
Except I won't...
Looking at the rear brake pedal setup, I discovered this:



I was expecting to find a screw and lock nut.
How can one adjust this?

Well, how good are you with a drill and a tap set?

I rarely use mine so never noticed....but if the lever is on a splined shaft, could you take it off and re-fit lower down?

It's not on any splines. The plate to the plunger and the spacer are bolted to the brake lever with two m4 screws. To alter the position of the lever, the best way would be to remove the two m4 screws, build it all back together, find the exact position that you want the lever to sit, mark it across the three parts, strip down again and then drill and tap the new bolt hole positions. Shouldn't take you more than half an hour to do.

Stu Bodycote said:

It's not on any splines. The plate to the plunger and the spacer are bolted to the brake lever with two m4 screws. The alter the position of the lever, the best way would be to remove the two m4 screws, build it all back together, find the exact position that you want the lever to sit, mark it across the three parts, strip down again and then drill and tap the new bolt hole positions. Shouldn't take you more than half an hour to do.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the excellent suggestion .
I'll give to a friend who has a machine shop.
I can get him to drill and tap a number of holes, not too closely, so that I have a range of different settings.

bucksfizz said:

I went for a ride today, and found that the rear brake pedal was too high.
Simple job, I thought - I'll adjust it.
Except I won't...
Looking at the rear brake pedal setup, I discovered this:

I was expecting to find a screw and lock nut.
How can one adjust this?

Click to expand...

But surely that “Stop” is to stop the pedal going too high?

Can’t you undo and back off the locknut, then unclip the pivot pin, and screw the link up the thread until you get the pedal in the right position?

cliffa said:

But surely that “Stop” is to stop the pedal going too high?

Can’t you undo and back off the locknut, then unclip the pivot pin, and screw the link up the thread until you get the pedal in the right position?

Click to expand...

Yes, the "Stop" does stop the pedal going too high, but it fixes the "angle of dangle".
I want to lower the pedal, and normally the "Stop" abutment has a screw and lock nut to adjust said "angle of dangle".
Having adjusted the pedal into a more downward position (in a normal setup), you then have to adjust the master cylinder actuator.
I think you're referring to that lock nut, but it doesn't adjust the brake pedal per se.

cliffa said:

But surely that “Stop” is to stop the pedal going too high?

Can’t you undo and back off the locknut, then unclip the pivot pin, and screw the link up the thread until you get the pedal in the right position?

Click to expand...

Doing it that way, you'll end up with a floppy that no amount of blue pills is going to cure.

Adding an adjuster to the stop block is the way to go- but once done be cautious and ensure you are allowing the piston rod in the master cylinder to be fully retracted when the pedal is at its new rest position.

Failure to do this can lead to the pressure relief port in the master cylinder being covered all or partially, which will cause the brake to drag.

I bought a BMW R1100RT that suffered from this- to the point that the PO had deleted the ABS system and replumbed the rear brake in an effort to correct it. When I got the bike the brake would hang up on cold days but not on hot days- adding a bit of slack to the piston rod put it all right.

…. and allowed me to reconnect the ABS and replace the cooked rotor and pads.