Ready to Race Finally

Sounds like a good time was had overall,,,,,, I'm jealous all I did was work on the weekend.

Thanks for sharing the events Mike, I'm missing out so leaves me grinning for those getting it on like you. The gearing info was educational and entertaining to feel the torque effect hooking up while I'm in my rocking chair reading about it.

Beautiful bike, Mike.

Now comes the lifetime of dialing it in!

Thanks Kenny, had a few punters enquiring after my rear set pegs and linkages, they are great thank you.
Did you check my photobucket link how I ended up mounting them on the modified Z plates? Works a treat, you mentioned at the outset about the brake cable stub, fabricated a piece of the cut off Z plate, moulded it to the profile of the plate so there was no really pressure applied to the weld after I TIG'ed it on , works great, although still only a drum brake.
Broke an oil line after two practices, turns out the tubing I was using was flapping in the airflow over the engine and under the tank, and split at a banjo fitting barb, did it twice, lucky it didn't do it during a race, replacing with push lock hose and clips or braided pressure lines.
Turns out the bike is realiable and starts great, making power and torque where I need it most.
Was too high geared for the first day, although was great to get a base line started, changed the rear sprocket 2 x tooth from 44 to 46 but still wasnt using 5th although we were only using the 'short ' version of the track at Taupo
Regards Mike

Hi Mike

Yer man, she is looking good. Great to hear you are now racing ya Norty ,it makes me feel like going north again for a race as not as many Commandos to race with hear in the south. I still sorting my old girl out racing the Bears club winter series at Ruapuna and I will have to settle for the Greymouth street race on the same labour weekend as Barry Sheene which you will have a blast because the numbers are looking good. You wouldnt be planning to do The Burt Munro challenge by any chance ? It would be one hell of a week !!

cheers

jarrad

Hi Jarrad, thanks for that, was wondering where you got to!
Not sure about Burt Munro, timing with work is an issue, especially as I have planned to have Xmas off, definitely Hampton Downs Labour weekend and there is a big group of us looking at coming to Ruapuna in February
See you out there eventually, how is your bike going?
Regards Mike

Hi Mike

Did I say I have the reverse plate in my box?
While you wait for the replacement cam plate. Move the gear change lever through 180 degrees ie facing the floor.
Reconnect the gearchange rod & you have reverse the change sequence. This is how I run it on my bike but you may need a longer rod.

Glad you enjoyed your weekend. That in itself is great.

all the best Chris

Hi Chris, thanks for that, yes toyed with that idea and even to use a standard AMC shifter facing backwards would also work, the rear sets I have from Holmslice are a fantastic set up and I would like to continue to use them in the over head position, I tried the 180 degree switch but the rod binds on the TTI cover plate, thanks anyway.
had a phone call from Megan today from TTI, replacement barrel is on its way, so hopefully will be all back to normal for end of October
Regards Mike

Hm can anyone here tell me if a Maney main shaft out rigger might still fit with a TTI tranny?

Hi Steve, I don't think so , when you look at their website their mainshaft is far bigger ( diameter) than the stock one , thus the Maney outrigger bearing should not fit over , and it seems difficult to find another bearing with such a small ouside diameter , with a bigger inside diameter , my thoughts ...........plus it does seem to have enough beef on the plate to fit a bigger bearing in...........

On the TTI gearbox the part of the mainshaft that protrudes from the sleeve gear is around 25 mm and the sleeve gear does not have the plain part where the inner primary felt goes.
You can fit an outrigger bearing with an ID of 25 mm and a width of 12 mm.

Ok thank for clarifying my confusion. I'll get further hand holding once the engine and tranny at home. I do want the slam bam the snot out of it and everything else to flash back to immature youth. Go out and break a leg as they say for a good showing blessing.

This has just arrived in the mail via courier(thanks Bruce and Megan at TTI) so should sort out my missed gear changes and the odd overrun in false neutrals.
If this part quality is anything to go by, hobot, you shouldn't need the outrigger.
If in doubt ,you could fit the TTI box to Trixie in the meantime and thrash it in that bike while waiting to complete Mrs Peel!!!
Regards Mike

Whoa Mike, I don't even know what part of a tank that robust shaft is. Trixie is my plain Jane gal that factory wimpy stuff is over kill for how hard I ever load her. For Peel I'd got the TS foot peg mounted but till TTI and engine home I can't see how I'll end up doing it. Reversed faced lever or RubGoldberg double hinged dual rod gizmo or just air shifter with back up hand lever. I think 95% of Peel project is spent now.

hobot said:

Hm can anyone here tell me if a Maney main shaft out rigger might still fit with a TTI tranny?

Click to expand...

99% of users...racers included won't need one.....

Bruce told me 100%, not necessary, but maybe he didn't know of your plan Steve ;-)

I bought my TTi used, and the gear pattern was 'standard TTi' that is the reverse of what we want....

This is one way of doing it.....

I also prepared a shorter link rod and swapped the toe peg and lower rod mount locations and rotated the lever on the splines. I have smallish feet so having the toe peg closer to the footrest may work for me, but I will try both and use which ever works best for me when the bike is running.

The pegs are made for common Harris rearsets as replacement, £20 a pair, and the lever was made for a featherbed kit (pair of bushed levers with replaceable toe pegs £70). I cut the original rod mount of the lever. The pegs are spaced outwards to accomodate my leg over a high level twin exhaust set up. Final spacing to be set also after testing but with or without spacing this set up clears the TTi cover plate.

Second pic is just for completeness to show brake linkage, also indicates the part I cut off of the gear lever.

Note also offset gearbox sprocket, part of the modofied chain line set up to allow m eto run a 130 rear tyre....

Brooking 850 said:

Hi Jarrad, thanks for that, was wondering where you got to!
Not sure about Burt Munro, timing with work is an issue, especially as I have planned to have Xmas off, definitely Hampton Downs Labour weekend and there is a big group of us looking at coming to Ruapuna in February
See you out there eventually, how is your bike going?
Regards Mike

Click to expand...

Hi Mike, Cool I will make sure I will be there, Sound of Thunder is it? What class will you run? I stuck a TLS front end on for it this year so I could run with the Classic 72 which was a bit of a bummer cause most the norty's were racing the Heritage and BOB classes with there fancy disc brakes on, but still I got a pretty 2nd place sash to put on the old girl . She has been going strong (touch wood) me front end shudders a bit if I throw it into the corners to fast ( or could be just me) so been muckin around with the front end alot and different tyres, but with no upgraded head steady its most likley that too. My next major is going too be one of the TTi G boxes you guys are talking about so bin good to know about them and rest of the good reading to be done on here.
Front disc on for Greymouth as racing pre 82 and Bears class, so amped for the next race.
Thanks to everyone for the input on this website, I have a list now as long as my arm of jobs and dreams for my Norty
cheers
jarrad

Hi Mike, Cool I will make sure I will be there, Sound of Thunder is it? What class will you run? I stuck a TLS front end on for it this year so I could run with the Classic 72 which was a bit of a bummer cause most the norty's were racing the Heritage and BOB classes with there fancy disc brakes on, but still I got a pretty 2nd place sash to put on the old girl . She has been going strong (touch wood) me front end shudders a bit if I throw it into the corners to fast ( or could be just me) so been muckin around with the front end alot and different tyres, but with no upgraded head steady its most likley that too. My next major is going too be one of the TTi G boxes you guys are talking about so bin good to know about them and rest of the good reading to be done on here.
Front disc on for Greymouth as racing pre 82 and Bears class, so amped for the next race.
Thanks to everyone for the input on this website, I have a list now as long as my arm of jobs and dreams for my Norty
cheers jarrad[/quote]


re; “me front end shudders a bit if I throw it into the corners to fast ( or could be just me) so been muckin around with the front end a lot and different tyres,”

I would definitely attend to this problem as you don’t want to find yourself sliding down the road, at any speed.
The phrase “so been muckin around with the front end a lot” indicates that this is a fork problem, not a tyre problem.

Thanks for showing off the shifter double hinge linkage SteveA and mounted TTI for my further education. Peel's 530 x-ring chain on AMC box cleared 130 tire on WM3 rim so hope not to have to mess with drive sprocket spacing. Peel better fall in the 1% an outrigger needed or she's just another too expensive piece of out dated obsolete motorcycle design that strangers sneer at then leave in their dust, especially when any leaning involved. I filled in TTI on Peel's flight envelopes on/off road, stripped down or loaded down with trailer and side car so they came up with a custom ratio HD 4spd soon to be shipped. Kicker cost $200 more. Peel may not really need the outrigger with the robust TTI as you say and hope so too but if it'd fit with 25x12 mm bearing then couldn't hurt and the cut out needed in inner case for the outrigger will act as exit vent of forced air through blower belt then primary belt and out. Vent air mostly to flush belt dust and help cool the blower side of engine rather than any concern for belt temps though soothing for me.

Kent's 920 Torque monster engine going in his lightened P11 MX type racer, is similar to Peel's, made upper 80's lb ft sucking mixture in, Peel's snapped throttle Drouin should add over 50% more.

I am only seeking insane power d/t Peel's insane handling. I know too well what happens pressing various types of cycles into fluttering states with front tire still in some traction, whoowhooie hi side City! In all other cycles this is their cornering limits but in Peel its just the beginning of 3 more exciting ways to change direction literally breath taking. I have utmost respect and fear for those pressing limits in corner cripples. I'm just not that good or brave anymore so sticking with Peel's low effort low skill self saving and steering security thank you.

Mike, I found your comments about gearing a bit puzzling, When I used the 4 speed CR box, getting a good start was a real problem when the overall gearing was where it had to be. I only ever got decent starts by slipping the clutch too much. I presume you are using the standard box ? The first time I raced my Seeley, I had the standard box fitted and I found that the downshifts were extremely difficult to do smoothly. The CR box is much better, the response is always there when you want it. I didn't have the brains to fit a low ratio first gear to the CR box, so I could get decent starts. I've got the TTI 6 speeder ready to go, however I now think it might be a bit of overkill. I suggest that a CR box could cure your clutch slip problem, it gives the whole drive train an easier time. When you are pulling too high a gear, you expose the clutch to every thing the motor can deliver. My theory is to use much higher overall gearing and work your way up to maximum speed in smaller easier and faster steps. I think it is important that there is some lag in the revs after each upshift, however if it is excessive the bike is slower. If you are upshifting with a CR box with no lag occurring, your overall gearing is too low. I found this stuff very deceptive.