Race ignition

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Chris

Chris

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Hi
As per the title. Looking for a new ignition system. I am still running Interspan.
(I have a few lol) all quite old.
Setting up the timing & how it's charged are important. But need to know what's out there in the near future.
Chris
 
Chris said:
Hi
As per the title. Looking for a new ignition system. I am still running Interspan.
(I have a few lol) all quite old.
Setting up the timing & how it's charged are important. But need to know what's out there in the near future.
Chris
Click to expand...

It would be interesting if someone did a swappable 'contains everything except the trigger' box like the Interspan using modern technology, but it would be a very small market.

I currently have the basic Pazon and it is fine, simple to use and cheap, I carry a spare box.

But eventually I want to go back to a crank trigger. Pazon have higher end systems, some that are suitable for a crank trigger, but they get expensive.

Ignitech looks worthy of consideration. Not too expensive, seems robust, and programmable.

I think Ralph has a crank trigger. Minnovation use RTD boxes crank triggered. they look good, just expensive.

Will follow with interest.
 
For the last two seasons I have been using a crank triggered Boyer with the Twin coil ,not to expensive but you have to provide your own trigger. It works well ,not programmable ; the only problems i encountered were mis firing when the fairing rubbed on the pick up coil, and when the trigger I made fell apart, this caused a further problem at a later meeting when the pick up trigger coil bracket fractured . All in all pretty good , starts well and runs well its a total loss system but the current draw is pretty small so a well charged battery ( mines 4 years old ) lasts for at least 3 days without charge . Only downside is that its a bit vulnerable if crashed , so I try not to crash.
 
I have a Rex Caunt crank triggered battery less ignition on my race bike.
Fool proof and accurate
He makes components for BSA bikes, and a while back listed Commando ignition systems for sale, so not sure he makes them now.
Try RCR (Rex Caunt Racing)https://rexcauntracing.com
I would contact him by email to see if he still makes them as there is very little listed on his website.
Regards Mike
 
Moto55UK said:
For the last two seasons I have been using a crank triggered Boyer with the Twin coil ,not to expensive but you have to provide your own trigger. It works well ,not programmable ; the only problems i encountered were mis firing when the fairing rubbed on the pick up coil, and when the trigger I made fell apart, this caused a further problem at a later meeting when the pick up trigger coil bracket fractured . All in all pretty good , starts well and runs well its a total loss system but the current draw is pretty small so a well charged battery ( mines 4 years old ) lasts for at least 3 days without charge . Only downside is that its a bit vulnerable if crashed , so I try not to crash.
Click to expand...

Did you buy the Boyer box from Steve Maney, or is your advance curve the same as a cam driven curve?

I ran my Maney Boyer box with a cam pick up for a while, and of course I had half the advance! Didn't seem too big an issue, but I think it would be worse the other way around?
 
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Brooking 850 said:
I have a Rex Caunt crank triggered battery less ignition on my race bike.
Fool proof and accurate
He makes components for BSA bikes, and a while back listed Commando ignition systems for sale, so not sure he makes them now.
Try RCR (Rex Caunt Racing)https://rexcauntracing.com
I would contact him by email to see if he still makes them as there is very little listed on his website.
Regards Mike
Click to expand...

With a 40mm belt?

Bruno Perlinski uses similar PVL ignitions but with 30mm belts.
 
Moto55UK said:
For the last two seasons I have been using a crank triggered Boyer with the Twin coil ,not to expensive but you have to provide your own trigger. It works well ,not programmable ; the only problems i encountered were mis firing when the fairing rubbed on the pick up coil, and when the trigger I made fell apart, this caused a further problem at a later meeting when the pick up trigger coil bracket fractured . All in all pretty good , starts well and runs well its a total loss system but the current draw is pretty small so a well charged battery ( mines 4 years old ) lasts for at least 3 days without charge . Only downside is that its a bit vulnerable if crashed , so I try not to crash.
Click to expand...

Sounds a lot like the Maney kit I bought, wouldn't fit with the catch tank fairing lower I now have, but the pick up was wrecked in early testing when the belt pulley keeper plate fell of at the end of Park Straight!

What I want today is a pick up trigger that fits on the inside of the pulley. Ralph made one for his, and a trigger mount on the crankcase. Have seen other home made ones like that. My concern is that there isn't much clearance behind my current pulley.
 
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Yes with a 40 mm belt Maney primary.
Yes very similar to the systems from Steve Maney that I have seen on other race bikes here.
Initially I had it mounted on a modified inner primary casing, then when I split a set of original cases, I replaced them with a set of Steves thicker cases, the base for the system is mounted directly to these with a 3 x long bolt system.
I have a set of modified inner and outer primary covers for protection.
Regards Mike
 
SteveA said:
Did you buy the Boyer box from Steve Maney, or is your advance curve the same as a cam driven curve?

I ran my Many Boyer box with a cam pick up for a while, and of course I had half the advance! Didn't seem too big an issue, but I think it would be worse the other way around?
Click to expand...

I bought mine direct from Boyer( steve didnt have any in stock) its kit 00102 racing 4 stroke 360 deg with a micro power dual coil £230 all in. you do have to make the trigger yourself, i did want to make one like ralph's but with the thicker Maney cases and 40mm belt I couldnt make it work in the space available. they do give info about the curve but i'm not sure i understand it . I used to run the cam driven boyer with a resistor across the coil,( as per JSM tuning manual)that seemed to work but i havent tried it with the crank set up, yet!
 
As Steve says, I run an Ignitech ignition. It is programable and seems to work with just about any trigger, I have a small 5 AH LiPo battery and haven't run out of sparks yet.

Once you have it set how you like it, advance curve, rev limit, shift light etc, you can lock the program and then it is eligible.

I have this:

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/dccdip1_race/dccdip1_race.htm

And this:

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/accessories/basic harness/basic harness dccdip1 race.jpg

And this: IP6

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/accessories/pick-up/pick-up.htm

€158 for the control unit.
€9 for the harness
€15 for the pickup
€25 postage.
 
Moto55UK said:
...............i did want to make one like ralph's but with the thicker Maney cases and 40mm belt I couldnt make it work in the space available............!
Click to expand...

And therein lies my concern, 40mm belt and Maney cases.....but I think that is what Ralph has?
 
SteveA said:
And therein lies my concern, 40mm belt and Maney cases.....but I think that is what Ralph has?
Click to expand...

Yes, but the previous owner had had the cases machined for a road chaincase.:mad: It has worked to my advantage because of the relative ease I managed to mount the pickup but I would rather have the extra strength in the cases.

I suppose it could have been easier to mount the pickup onto un-machined cases as there is plenty of meat to fasten an L shaped bracket directly to the cases. I see no reason why the pickup needs to see the outside edge perimeter of the rotor, it should work just as well facing the outside face of the rotor, ie facing into the engine.

Race ignition
 
storm42 said:
As Steve says, I run an Ignitech ignition. It is programable and seems to work with just about any trigger, I have a small 5 AH LiPo battery and haven't run out of sparks yet.

Once you have it set how you like it, advance curve, rev limit, shift light etc, you can lock the program and then it is eligible.

I have this:

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/dccdip1_race/dccdip1_race.htm

And this:

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/accessories/basic harness/basic harness dccdip1 race.jpg

And this: IP6

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/accessories/pick-up/pick-up.htm

€158 for the control unit.
€9 for the harness
€15 for the pickup
€25 postage.
Click to expand...

Whatsistance does your (double output) coil have?

Harness looks useful regards not having to crimp wires Ralph, but as far as I can see you only need to connect 5 or 6 wires to the box? 8 or 9 if you use 3 shift lights?

( have a mechanical tacho so would need to add that in my count )

I can picture this set up in a small pack with a small battey in my current battery holder. With only 4 wires going out to other locations the bike. A fly lead for battery charging. 1 more wire for an electronic tacho and 3 more for a shift light block.

I think you should also be able too ignore sense ground, if you ground one end of the sensor locally.

Do you just use the USB fly connector on the box to connect to your computer? (Which makes the 9 pin serial connector and 5 connections redundant too!)

Still worth the purchase at 9€ of course, but a fair bit cut off.

Norman White used to mount a pickup outboard of the pulley, on the belt guard. I think that could be done. More chance of it moving a little than with your set up, but enough to develop the installation.
 
storm42 said:
Yes, but the previous owner had had the cases machined for a road chaincase.:mad: It has worked to my advantage because of the relative ease I managed to mount the pickup but I would rather have the extra strength in the cases.

I suppose it could have been easier to mount the pickup onto un-machined cases as there is plenty of meat to fasten an L shaped bracket directly to the cases. I see no reason why the pickup needs to see the outside edge perimeter of the rotor, it should work just as well facing the outside face of the rotor, ie facing into the engine.

View attachment 11735
Click to expand...

It is all about how much space there is to mount the pick up rotor on the back of the pulley. I have a BNR pully fitted and it runs very close to the cases.

But I understand what you are saying that you could flip the sensor and get it closer to the cases.
 
I think my coil is a very low impedance, but it doesn't matter as the ignition can be programmed for any coil. I think it just alters the dwell to suit.

You are right about the many wires on the connector, I just removed the ones I didn't need from the connector.

You could use the frame as an earth but I figured there was less likelihood of interference with the direct connection.

Yes USB connects to the computer for programming purposes.

There is an output for a rev counter.

You can download the program for programming the ignition so you can see just what options you have.

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/stahnout/aktualni-software

This ignition can be programmed to do just abut anything you can think of. How about a rev limit that is set by a clutch lever switch, just hold the throttle wide open for launch, just like a drag stutterbox.

Two maps, less aggressive map in the lower gears with a gear indicator switch!

Exhaust valve controll!

It does so much we cannot use but If you have a modern bike that has problematic ignition then these units should work with just about anything. 961 anyone?
 
SteveA said:
How did you calculate where to place the rotor 'blade'?
Click to expand...

If I remember right, the trailing edge of the rotor is at TDC when roughly at 3 o clock. The pickup was then mounted so I could get 26deg of advance. (920)

I don't mean flip the pickup. More fit it 90deg and face it to the outside face of the rotor, it would still see the end of the rotor lobe.
 
I am guessing you can do a two step installation, run it with a cam pick up before developing your crank pick up for example.

Really, they are great value. I spent more on two Pazon boxes!
 
storm42 said:
If I remember right, the trailing edge of the rotor is at TDC when roughly at 3 o clock. The pickup was then mounted so I could get 26deg of advance. (920)

I don't mean flip the pickup. More fit it 90deg and face it to the outside face of the rotor, it would still see the end of the rotor lobe.
Click to expand...

So I guess if you chose to put the pick up in front of the crank you would put the trailing edge at 9 o'clock at TDC!
 
SteveA said:
I am guessing you can do a two step installation, run it with a cam pick up before developing your crank pick up for example.

Really, they are great value. I spent more on two Pazon boxes!
Click to expand...

Definitely, In fact if I had a pickup on the cam as well as my solution it could have saved my practice day at the beginning of the year.

Does this make sense? I know it doesn't help with your clearance issue but if you could sort that, this should work.

Race ignition
 
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