Priming the lubrication system

Hey Guys (& Gals),

My 750 Roadster will be arriving soon and I'll be wanting to get it on the road as soon as possible. It's been drained of all fluids for transport and I know that when filling an empty engine I have to prime the oil pump. So far, having searched the forum a bit, it looks like the basic method is to pour some oil down the rocker covers as well as pressure feed some oil into the oil pump feed hose (I'd probably just use a hand pump oil can). After which I should remove the plugs and kick it over until I see oil coming out the return spout.
It's been 10 years since my last Commando, so it's almost like starting over, having only been playing with with old Jap bikes and modern Euro's since then (unless a Bantam counts, but that's technically German anyway).
Doing a search came up with many different ideas on this, so I've just filtered out what seems to be the common processes that everyone has mentioned. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Ugh, I just did this and have a number of times prior, with lots of reading on others doing it in between. Main area to fill is the crank sludge trap and that is best done before TS cover put on. I pump till I see oil coming out the sump. Then the issue is how long it will hold much of this oil during interval to get rest of engine ready to start. Might store crank with pistons near TDC to help it not drain out in interim.

Not much point of pouring oil down rockers, just drain to TS area from intakes and a bit dribbles on cam at exht side but not much stays in rocker spindle which is about all that needs lube up there anyway. Assembly lube on cam and rockers and rod shells is supposed to protect till oil pressure hits.

Some push bike or turn rear wheel till seeing oil appear in tank, but then some the most respected say that's a bad practice scratching up cam-liters to wear out pre-mature or even before first start, ugh.

I put what oil I can in oil pump but after that it pretty much self primes by the normal wet sump with normal oil level in oil tank.

Can't force much oil pass stationary oil pump gears but it does wet sump so maybe best bet is a long forcing or hanging oil above in via feed hose till seen out sump drain or back to tank. Then a count down till engine drains down
before starting.

Last Sunday did a first start on a Combat and went straight to over isolastic isolation rpms 2000-4000 to wait ~30 sec to see oil flow out head spindle cover forgot to nip up and then oil in tank, all foamy gray from the assembly lube I hope. Cam break in is the main issue more than ring seating to consider.
I figure engine is most dirty on first start and more wear off surfaces occurring so use hi detergent diesel grade oil and toss it soon as engine dialed in to hit the road for real. Nip up head bolts on first few cool downs too.

If the engine has been run within the last couple months I would just fill the tank with oil and start it up. If it has an anti-wetsump valve in the suction line from the tank I would remove it first and put a piece of tubing in its place. The oil pump will prime by gravity if there is no anti-wetsump valve in the way. After starting I would look in the oil tank and confirm oil return within about 60 seconds.

If the engine has been setting for several months without running I would pull the overhead oil line off at the timing cover and pump oil into the hole in the timing chest to fill the crankshaft with oil before starting. I will hold nearly 8 ounces if empty.

A couple ounces of oil in each exhaust rocker cover would help avoid a dry cam on start-up. A teaspoon of oil in each plug hole would help avoid dry rings and pistons.

I would not attempt to kick the engine over until you see oil return. You may be kicking for a half an hour and slow turning a dry engine is not good for things. You would be better off starting it and bringing it up to a fast idle until you see oil return.. Jim

Ah so pump crank 'full' via the head feed out let.
I video'd Trixie first start and so able to time the appearance of head oil puddle leak at ~30 sec and oil return in tank ~40 sec, but this time I let her rev to cam run in level and then some. The first qt of oil was thin 5-30 grade then another qt or so 10-40 Rotella chaser. I figured on the cold day and short time of initial start and dial in it'd not require any more before drained-examined and road running top off.

I do rings dry as TotalSeal recommends and even sells a dry power to aid the initial dry bed in. Personally I think TS got their idea from the early '50 Chevy ring sealing problem solved by dealerships putting in Bon Ami down intakes.

I was able to pull kicker off by hand so if diligent worker during wkend storms may be able to ride it with kicker on to machinist to fix it stable so always able to get it off by hand, which implies the splines stay intact as well. Time will tell.

Is there not a bolt adjacent the Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
That or the oil pressure Light Switch .Around to the rear of the timing cover .

if you get a fitting the same thread , This is where youd hook up a grease gun full of oil or whatever,
To prime pump , oilways , crank etc .

Excellent advice, simple and perfect. thanks guys.
Looking forward to getting back on a Norton after 10 years!

Matt Spencer said:

Is there not a bolt adjacent the Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
That or the oil pressure Light Switch .Around to the rear of the timing cover .

Click to expand...

But you wouldn't find an oil pressure light switch on any standard Commando?