I have installed a Trispark and I think it's far too advanced. I static timed per the directions. I think maybe my timing marks are off - and I don't have a degree wheel or frankly, the desire to learn to use one. What I'm wondering about is perhaps reinstalling the rotor in a slightly retarded position (don't say it....). So if "correct" installation is to get the LED to light with the motor set at 28 BTDC, should I reset with it at say 30 BTDC? Not sure how the "algebra" works here. Tx.
Poor Man's Trispark Fettling
- Thread starter BrianK
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If you are not concerned with turning your pipes cherry red or burning off the tops of your pistons then don't worry about learning how to validate your timing marks. If, however, this is a concern and it is your desire to get it right, learn the use the timing wheel. Your not trying to dial in a camshaft, for goodness sakes, your trying to find TDC.
FWIW
The manual says to set the timing marks to 28 degrees BTDC, THEN go on with the install.
From the Trispark installation instructions.
EDIT: It has been brought to my attention that this is backwards and when retarded the exhaust gasses over heat to blue your pipe. Thank, Jim.
FWIW
The manual says to set the timing marks to 28 degrees BTDC, THEN go on with the install.
From the Trispark installation instructions.
https://www.trispark.com.au/assets/files/Classic Twin Manual Final V8.pdf
EDIT: It has been brought to my attention that this is backwards and when retarded the exhaust gasses over heat to blue your pipe. Thank, Jim.
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BrianK said:
The Tri-Spark module has adjustment slots so unless it is already at the end of the slots it should only be necessary to reposition the module slightly (by turning in the appropriate direction) to retard the timing setting. A final check should of course be done with a strobe.
A timing wheel is nothing to learn and you can stick it to your rotor tun with some gum. Bend a coat hanger or the like to fashion a pointer.
Step 2. Take an old spark plug and bust out the porcelain and clear out the electrode. drill and tap to 3/8-16. run a bolt with a stop nut and use this device as a piston stop.
Step 2. Take an old spark plug and bust out the porcelain and clear out the electrode. drill and tap to 3/8-16. run a bolt with a stop nut and use this device as a piston stop.
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Brian, why do you "think" your timing is too far advanced?
what reason do you have for this?
I think you should just assume it is just fine for now and set the trispark exactly per the instructions, light come on at 28 degrees. And forget about the complexity of a degree wheel, yes all good advice but likely not necessary.
Then start your bike and put a strobe light on the timing mark while your assistant blips the rpms up and then advance the timing until it reads about 31 degrees around 4000rpm or whatever your instructions say it full advance.
THEN, IF your bike kicks back at you while starting, you can retard the timing a little until it just goes away.
what reason do you have for this?
I think you should just assume it is just fine for now and set the trispark exactly per the instructions, light come on at 28 degrees. And forget about the complexity of a degree wheel, yes all good advice but likely not necessary.
Then start your bike and put a strobe light on the timing mark while your assistant blips the rpms up and then advance the timing until it reads about 31 degrees around 4000rpm or whatever your instructions say it full advance.
THEN, IF your bike kicks back at you while starting, you can retard the timing a little until it just goes away.
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1up3down said:
Why do I get the feeling BrianK is attempting to set this ignition without a strobe?
1up3down said:
The Tri-Spark Classic Twin system has an anti-kick back feature, so I'd guess it may have to be set way off before it would kick back if it will at all (mine never has)?
I would be VERY careful with that piston stop as it can fowl the valves with some camshafts.
pvisseriii said:A timing wheel is nothing to learn and you can stick it to your rotor tun with some gum. Bend a coat hanger or the like to fashion a pointer.
Step 2. Take an old spark plug and bust out the porcelain and clear out the electrode. drill and tap to 3/8-16. run a bolt with a stop nut and use this device as a piston stop.
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BrianK said:
It is too far advanced as the strobe check has proved. So, you need to re-adjust the module position until it reads 28 degrees full advance @4000+ RPM.
The static setting will set the timing close enough to allow the engine to be started. As it says in the instructions, the final adjustment is done using a strobe. I think you are simply expecting too much from the static setting, if the static setting was totally accurate then there wouldn't be any need for a strobe check.
Post script: Reinstalled and static-timed the Trispark; still need to strobe but my strong seat-of-the-pants impression is the problem is solved.
Thanks to all for advice and encouragement, as always. And yes, learning to use a degree wheel is on my to-do list....
Thanks to all for advice and encouragement, as always. And yes, learning to use a degree wheel is on my to-do list....
Strobed it today, and it took a bit of adjustment. Finally settled on ~27 degrees at 3000 RPM, which increases to ~32 degrees max with additional throttle (that's a bit more advance than I would have thought existed beyond 3K RPMs.....).
Best I could do. Hope it works.
Best I could do. Hope it works.
Hi Les.
I was not quite out of adjustment (albeit close), but motor seemed to get a bit ragged if I pushed it further at 3K RPM. Then when I saw 32 degrees further on I didn't want it advanced further.
Haven't had it out on the road yet but we'll see how it goes.
I am surprised to find it advancing five degrees more after 3K though....
I was not quite out of adjustment (albeit close), but motor seemed to get a bit ragged if I pushed it further at 3K RPM. Then when I saw 32 degrees further on I didn't want it advanced further.
Haven't had it out on the road yet but we'll see how it goes.
I am surprised to find it advancing five degrees more after 3K though....
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BrianK said:
I'm not quite sure I understand?
The Tri-Spark should be set to 28 degrees maximum advance at 4000+ RPM (Boyer is 31 deg. BTDC @ 5000).
I don't understand why you think it should be more? If it's reaching 32 degrees then it's over advanced.
Edit: Disregard the 3,000 RPM figure given in the manual as that is intended for the original points ignition with the mechanical AAU.
Electronic ignition systems generally do not reach full advance until higher RPM.
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