Peashooters

Thanks for all your reply's to my post. On second thoughts I think I will go for AN downpipes as I have had them before and they fit very well. Going to give them the Kreem Blue treatment hopefully that may stop some of the bluing. Fingers crossed. Silencers I am going for a pair of polished stainless ones from Armours as the AN silencers are believed to be a little too muted for my bike. We all like to be heard. Again thanks to all your comments.

Cheers ELLIS
 
Onder said:
If you go for the AN, please report back on how loud they are. They say they have made them quieter. My older AN peas
are ear piercingly loud at full chat.
Click to expand...
Order,
I have the muted ones from AN and didn’t notice that they were quieter than the ones I had on originally but I am no expert as far as decibel ratings go. I even called them to make sure that I received the correct ones.Pleased with the product.
Mike
 
ELLIS said:
Thanks for all your reply's to my post. On second thoughts I think I will go for AN downpipes as I have had them before and they fit very well. Going to give them the Kreem Blue treatment hopefully that may stop some of the bluing. Fingers crossed. Silencers I am going for a pair of polished stainless ones from Armours as the AN silencers are believed to be a little too muted for my bike. We all like to be heard. Again thanks to all your comments.

Cheers ELLIS
Click to expand...
I had heard some people paint them inside close to the head with ht paint , will it work , dunno, but cheap and easy to try , do it and report ............!
 
marinatlas said:
I had heard some people paint them inside close to the head with ht paint , will it work , dunno, but cheap and easy to try , do it and report ............!
Click to expand...
I did that process with a new set. It can’t hurt but made no difference whatsoever. I did 2 coats covering the whole inside with a quality HT paint.Maybe someone had better luck
Mike
 
If you’re really serious about preventing blueing, get the insides ceramic coated.

There’s a place in U.K. called Camcoat that do this, I used to do it on race exhausts (speeds up gas flow and resonance… in theory).

BUT… IMHO there’s no point on a road bike with chrome pipes. Chrome pipes are SUPPOSED to go blue. A used road bike without blue pipes looks false! When I were a lad, the colour of your blueing was a badge of honour (and actually still is I guess) !
 
Fast Eddie said:
BUT… IMHO there’s no point on a road bike with chrome pipes. Chrome pipes are SUPPOSED to go blue. A used road bike without blue pipes looks false! When I were a lad, the colour of your blueing was a badge of honour (and actually still is I guess) !
Click to expand...
Hummmm - when I was young, I re-made a set of pipes for my Triumph 500. When I had them chromed, the old guy told me to paint the inside white. Since old guys know best, I did that. They never turned blue but did turn golden. Now, (what would have been) an old guy (you) tells me 55 years later to not paint them - what to do, what to do! I've painted every new set I've installed, so I suppose I'll keep doing it :)
 
marshg246 said:
Hummmm - when I was young, I re-made a set of pipes for my Triumph 500. When I had them chromed, the old guy told me to paint the inside white. Since old guys know best, I did that. They never turned blue but did turn golden. Now, (what would have been) an old guy (you) tells me 55 years later to not paint them - what to do, what to do! I've painted every new set I've installed, so I suppose I'll keep doing it :)
Click to expand...
Greg, most things in life are simple if you boil them down.

If you want to keep your pipes from getting blue… try painting ‘em.

If you want to look like a real man… don’t !

😁
 
Fast Eddie said:
Greg, most things in life are simple if you boil them down.

If you want to keep your pipes from getting blue… try painting ‘em.

If you want to look like a real man… don’t !

😁
Click to expand...
Young people, can't live with them, but I guess we need them :D
 
Just ride the bike and don't worry about the pipe colour
Well unless the downpipes turn blue from the head to the silencer
Then you may want to check your settings
 
marshg246 said:
Young people, can't live with them, but I guess we need them :D
Click to expand...

As long as they're working to pay into our little SS slush funds....AHAH!!

On another note, I've used Jet Hot Coating in Burlington, NC for all of the BMW race car headers, that are typically stainless. They've developed all kinds of coating systems for any and all vehicles, including bikes. We've found on the dyno power is actually gained with the internal coating of the tubing and that helps to maintain the integrity of the outside of the coating as well. Heat is the #1 enemy in all motors and the internal coating really helps to dissipate it from the motor and speeds up the exhaust escape throughout the exhaust system. Might be worth a call to them if interested, great people to deal with. I'm pretty "computer challenged" so I don't know how to put their link here but google will do it.
 
I heard that turning blue is a sign that the combustion is burning correctly, or possibly on the rich side, yellow means too lean.
 
Last edited:
My right hand pipe is "blueing" more than the left.... with a infa red thermometer i checked the temperature as the motor warmed up and after a run... and as expected the right is running hotter
So i have gone through everything,,
  1. Ignition timing checked on both right and left cylinder (Pazon system fitted)... Spot on the same
  2. New plugs fitted and gapped
  3. Tappets checked and OK
  4. New Premiers carbs fitted, but stripped down to confirm correct jets fitted to both sides... OK
  5. Float heights checked,
  6. Air screw balance checked and confirmed
  7. 19 pilot jets fitted
  8. Compression well up and with 5/10lb of each other
  9. Mounting faces between head, manifold to carb checked confirmed on surface plate with engineer blue
  10. Carb sync checked with mercury manometer (Madass gantry fitted)
  11. Air filter security & air tightness to carb checked.
Yet despite all the above the right hand cylinder still runs hotter than the left.
 
olympus said:
My right hand pipe is "blueing" more than the left.... with a infa red thermometer i checked the temperature as the motor warmed up and after a run... and as expected the right is running hotter
So i have gone through everything,,
  1. Ignition timing checked on both right and left cylinder (Pazon system fitted)... Spot on the same
  2. New plugs fitted and gapped
  3. Tappets checked and OK
  4. New Premiers carbs fitted, but stripped down to confirm correct jets fitted to both sides... OK
  5. Float heights checked,
  6. Air screw balance checked and confirmed
  7. 19 pilot jets fitted
  8. Compression well up and with 5/10lb of each other
  9. Mounting faces between head, manifold to carb checked confirmed on surface plate with engineer blue
  10. Carb sync checked with mercury manometer (Madass gantry fitted)
  11. Air filter security & air tightness to carb checked.
Yet despite all the above the right hand cylinder still runs hotter than the left.
Click to expand...
You are going to have to establish at what throttle opening you are getting a possible leaner mixture on the right than the left
If this is happening at idle then maybe richen the pilot air screw a little
Also if you have twin coils try swapping them over
If all else fails you will have to treat the engine as two single cylinders and jet/adjust as necessary
 
olympus said:
My right hand pipe is "blueing" more than the left.... with a infa red thermometer i checked the temperature as the motor warmed up and after a run... and as expected the right is running hotter
So i have gone through everything,,
  1. Carb sync checked with mercury manometer (Madass gantry fitt
Click to expand...
For this to be valid you would have to check while riding at various throttle openings. For instance, you may be sync'ed but too lean when on the needle. Also, if checked only at idle you can be tricked. You need to backoff the throttle stops completely and sync using the cables with the air screws out the same amount on both carbs - the throttle stops and air screws can combine to make the cylinders look sync'ed when they are not. At least open the throttle 1/8, 1/4, and 1/2 and watch the manometer.
 
marshg246 said:
For this to be valid you would have to check while riding at various throttle openings. For instance, you may be sync'ed but too lean when on the needle. Also, if checked only at idle you can be tricked. You need to backoff the throttle stops completely and sync using the cables with the air screws out the same amount on both carbs - the throttle stops and air screws can combine to make the cylinders look sync'ed when they are not. At least open the throttle 1/8, 1/4, and 1/2 and watch the manometer.
Click to expand...
I have certainly taken the revs up to 3500 on the stand to confirm carb sync and within a very small degree the two cylinders are balanced on my manometer... whether that is 1/8/ 1/4 1/2 throttle i couldn't say
When the weather warms i will play around with the right hand air screw to see if i can affect the temp...
What i really need is a rolling road where i can fan cool the engine and be able to fettle with the settings
 

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