parking lights (2010)

Hello Forum,

I've done a few searches but can't find the answer. Are my parking lights supposed to be on all the time? I understand that the first ignition switch position is "parking lights" but although my signals work fine, I have no marker lights at any ignition switch position.

Is there a way to have the parking lights on at all four corners all the time? Could it be that the wrong bulbs have been installed - do I use 2 filament or singles?

The bike is a '74 850 Commando. Thanks for any help.

Parking lights are your headlight and taillight and are not considered running lights.The key can be removed while in parking position.I think it was a safety requirement in Europe that the machine could be left illuminated on small roads in the event of a breakdown and the operator could leave machine and get help?

cool, thanks for that answer.

Any way to make'em into running lights? I'd like some extra visibility on all 4 corners for the maniacal Vancouver drivers. Yesterday I saw a guy eating a burger AND texting on his phone. I was in the Karman Ghia so gave him the serious KG horn. Shoulda seen him jump!! He gave me a really dirty look after - I think he spilled mustard/ketchup on his suit.

Should easily be able to combine the wires for those with the others that connect to an ignition on position. Just solder them all into a single connector, or tap them into an ignition-switched wire (posi-tap would work and be very easy).

Are you talking about running with all your turn signals permanently on ? If you do that, you'll have 4 x 21w bulbs = 84w which is more than a 60w halogen headlamp and standard tail.

European turn signals are always completely separate from any 'side' lights. Personally I'm glad because I've nearly clouted several Yank cars over the years due to not noticing that the rear light has started flashing after they 've begun braking. Quite how a side light that starts flickering can be regarded as a proper alternative to an amber indicator is beyond me.

You currently have a side lamp position using the toggle switch on the headlamp. This is effectively parking lights + ignition. A common dodge amongst those of us who also run dynamo equipped bikes is to use a small halogen bulb in the 9mm sidelamp holder.

speirmoor said:

It was a safety requirement in Europe that the machine could be left illuminated on small roads in the event of a breakdown and the operator could leave machine and get help?

Click to expand...

I don't know about the rest of Europe, but in the UK there are certain situations and conditions when parking lights are supposed to be used.
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTr ... /DG_069860

249
All vehicles MUST display parking lights when parked on a road or a lay-by on a road with a speed limit greater than 30 mph (48 km/h).


[Law RVLR reg 24]

250
Cars, goods vehicles not exceeding 1525 kg unladen weight, invalid carriages, motorcycles and pedal cycles may be parked without lights on a road (or lay-by) with a speed limit of 30 mph (48 km/h) or less if they are

•at least 10 metres (32 feet) away from any junction, close to the kerb and facing in the direction of the traffic flow
•in a recognised parking place or lay-by
Other vehicles and trailers, and all vehicles with projecting loads, MUST NOT be left on a road at night without lights.


[Laws RVLR reg 24 & CUR reg 82(7)]

251
Parking in fog. It is especially dangerous to park on the road in fog. If it is unavoidable, leave your parking lights or sidelights on.

Click to expand...

For the benefit of our non-UK members, a "lay-by" or "layby" is what I think would be known as a "pull-off" or "rest area" in the US. Many lay-bys (except for motorways) are just narrow parking strips, often immediately adjacent to the road, hence the requirement for parking lights.

79x100 said:

Are you talking about running with all your turn signals permanently on ? If you do that, you'll have 4 x 21w bulbs = 84w which is more than a 60w halogen headlamp and standard tail.

Click to expand...

I believe that in the USA it is (or was) common for the the turn signals/direction indicators to be wired as running lights, with double filament 21/5w bulbs, the 5w filament being used for the running light.

roqueweiler said:

cool, thanks for that answer.

Any way to make'em into running lights? I'd like some extra visibility on all 4 corners for the maniacal Vancouver drivers. Yesterday I saw a guy eating a burger AND texting on his phone. I was in the Karman Ghia so gave him the serious KG horn. Shoulda seen him jump!! He gave me a really dirty look after - I think he spilled mustard/ketchup on his suit.

Click to expand...

:mrgreen: I've experienced the maniacs in Van. They try to kill pedestrians out there.

How about using bar end signals like old er BMW's had. Maybe you can use those as parking lights.

In the conditions running lights and parking lights matter most
the Commando ain't making much extra current than to run headlight
tail light and ignition, just battery reserves determines how long
but stall out on brake or even turn signal while sitting still.

There a few ways to get running/parking lights in Cdo's and
really confusing d/t the cross currents in power feeds backing
up in ground loops depending on key and head light switching.

Simplest is to run low watt halogen in headlamp as mentioned
plus tail light.

On Peel non-Norton special - LED's signals and running and parking
lights will not need much battery to run all day and night.
Plus will have high lighting LEDs to glint off the polished parts
in purple tint that will be noticed involuntarily but not
glaring.

I'll prolly adapt Peel's BulbsThatLastForever kit to work signals,
tail and running lights but with non Norton LED clusters.

hobot

The lights that are active in the parking position of the key are instrument lights and the pilot lamp in the headlight shell, and I believe the tail light. The pilot lamp is selected by the toggle switch on the headlight shell (I think this varies by year).

Many years ago I replaced the single contact bayonet sockets in my Lucas blinkers with dual contact versions for the purpose of having running lights. The sockets are actually a standard size mount - I got them at an auto parts store. With regular 2 filament bulbs (1157?) the 4 of them overwhelmed my electrical system big time. Maybe now with LED versions being available it'd be practical.

Peel got one the first Norton units and never failed in many crashes,
some taking out signals and stem crushing or knocking off some of the
LED's in the clusters and jerking circuit board wire off, but put back
together, never missed a lick and bright enough don't notice
lack of handful LED's here and there. Hope still make it for us.
http://www.bulbsthatlast4ever.com/products/index.html

roqueweiler said:

cool, thanks for that answer.

Any way to make'em into running lights? I'd like some extra visibility on all 4 corners for the maniacal Vancouver drivers. Yesterday I saw a guy eating a burger AND texting on his phone. I was in the Karman Ghia so gave him the serious KG horn. Shoulda seen him jump!! He gave me a really dirty look after - I think he spilled mustard/ketchup on his suit.

Click to expand...

Vancouver, BC or Vancouver, WA? It makes a difference. The Canadian version of the MK III has a different wiring diagram and ignition switch from the USA version. For all I know they both just might be different from the European ones. I have a friend here In the USA that had bought a Canadian MK III last year. The assimilator light operated differently than the USA version. There were a few other wiring quirks. He had to buy a new USA version ignition switch and do some rewiring to get the lights to work per USA standard/

Commandodave said:

Vancouver, BC or Vancouver, WA? It makes a difference. The Canadian version of the MK III has a different wiring diagram and ignition switch from the USA version. For all I know they both just might be different from the European ones. I have a friend here In the USA that had bought a Canadian MK III last year. The assimilator light operated differently than the USA version. There were a few other wiring quirks. He had to buy a new USA version ignition switch and do some rewiring to get the lights to work per USA standard/

Click to expand...

This thread is almost nine and a half years old.