P11 steering alignment & fork rebuild

My top triple tree and bar looks a little off center as I am going down the road. At least that is the impression I have. What could cause this and can this be adjusted?

Re: P11 steering alignment

If you're saying the bar does not look right in the clamp (one side farther back than the other), I would guess the bar is crooked, probably from a minor mishap. If it's not centered in the clamp, then loosen the allens and center it. I doubt the top triple clamp is tweaked - it's pretty tough. Fork tubes, on the other hand, can get tweaked easily, but are available from several suppliers (at about double the cost of Norton tubes)

My Ranger came with front end damage and a non-original handle bar. New spindle, fork tubes, left slider and correct bar fixed all that. That minor crash back in the '70s probably saved the bike. It couldn't be fixed 40 years ago due to unavailable parts, so sat until I found it.

40 years ago the only way to find parts for these things was to go to swap meets. An 8-10 year old bike was not worth restoring for many folks.

Now the English bikes people remember are all 40-60 years old, and forums such as this mean one can resurrect one in as little as six months, given enough money and determination.

Re: P11 steering alignment

I will try to snap a photo of what I am seeing. The top triple clamp looks like it is slightly turning to one side when driving straight. I suspect bent fork tubes would do this.

Re: P11 steering alignment

Out of alignment front forks can cause this....

Re: P11 steering alignment

Beach said:

Out of alignment front forks can cause this....

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I agree, simply loosen the triple clamps and one front axle clamp.............twist everything to align.....retighten all.

Re: P11 steering alignment

will try that. another question. fork oil coming out the top of the tubes, which faulty seal causes that?

Re: P11 steering alignment

Out of the top? Too much oil causes that.

Re: P11 steering alignment

I have the same problem. Oil leak at the top.
My theory is: there is paint in the holes of the fork crown.
The o-ring under the top nut does not touch the fork tube.
I may be wrong. Have to investigate that a bit more.

I need to tackle a fork rebuild very soon. How many hours should I budget for this build, and are there any special tools needed?

So far, I have just bought 2 fork seals, 2 thick bronze bushings, and new gaiters. What are the heavy $75 bronze bushings for, and do they often need replacing?

elefantrider said:

I need to tackle a fork rebuild very soon. How many hours should I budget for this build, and are there any special tools needed?

So far, I have just bought 2 fork seals, 2 thick bronze bushings, and new gaiters. What are the heavy $75 bronze bushings for, and do they often need replacing?

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The bronze bushings replace the original top bushings, which were plastic. They should last the life of the bike as long as no grit gets past the seals and wears down the bushes.

I found this resource to be especially helpful:

http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Suspension/Teledraulic_Fork_Overhaul_(Motor_Cycle_1965).pdf

aside from the normal shop tools and a bench vise, you'll need to get or fabricate a puller to draw the fork tube into the yoke - you're compressing the external spring as you draw the tube into the yoke. You may be able to get them in without it, but you'll need help and patience.

Thanks Bill,
Do you know if there is an online listing of part numbers needed for the rebuild?
Waldridge in Canada is one source of parts but isn't there another source in the UK somewhere?

AMC classic spares, Steve Sulby. I have got all my spares from him and have never had a problem. if you cant find him I will dig out contact etc. Neil

BillT said:

[
The bronze bushings replace the original top bushings, which were plastic. They should last the life of the bike as long as no grit gets past the seals and wears down the bushes.

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I just looked at my invoice and here is the part number and description: 02-1495 Bottom Bush, $35 each

There are four bushings

the top ones have a lip that seat in the slider below the seal, held in place by the slider extension

the bottom ones have no lip and fit onto the bottom of the fork tubes, held in place by snap rings. These were originally metal.

I assumed when you said heavy bushes you meant the top ones.

If you compare the diagram in the above-referenced article with the description in the parts manual, you should be able to find whatever you need.

Mike Partridge at Walridge is a great source for hybrid parts, especially reproduction pieces, and is pretty knowledgeable about what is correct for each model.

Steve Surbey at AMC Classic Spares is a great source for Matchless and AJS parts, especially hard parts, such as bushings, bearings, spindles and such. Since almost everything on a P11 aside from the motor is AMC, he can prove invaluable.