P11 bent Dunlop

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I have a flat spot on a rear 18" Dunlop. Don't know how this happened but I just noticed it now. Appears to be only on one side. Can't feel it when riding so I think it is just the lip.
This was the only set I gave to a motorcycle tire shop to install tires so that could have something to do with it.
Anyone have any success in rebending the edges of these Dunlop rims?
 
It's probably not worth the trouble. Maybe the rim or the bead is weakened by corrosion. I suggest you buy a new quality rim.
If you order from Devon Rim Co. (steel, stainless, or aluminum) , I have left the precise recipe for the stock rim with them.

- Knut
 
Do their Dunlop copies look like the real thing?

I am not sure if this shop used a tire machine or levers.
Is that possible they could put a 4-5" flat spot on the lip with 12" tire irons?

They are probably used to puting tires on strong Excel rims.

It seriously looks like the rim was dropped.
 
I've tried, but not been successful at making a Dunlop rim look new again. With the right tools and experience it may be possible, but as Knut says, probably not worth the effort and cost for one rim. The rims are thin and on the soft side, but it would take a serious lack of experience to flatten part of the lip installing a tire with a 12-inch tire iron. You would probably need at least two 16-inch tire irons, and not have a clue how to install tires. Tires go on those chrome rims relatively easily with tire irons if using a little liquid soap. What the young guys are not accustomed to working with are narrow rims, which are harder to put tires on than wider rims. Regardless, service shops generally don't take responsibility for damage. "Sir, that rim came in that way."

I thought backyard mechanics and old dirt bikers were the only ones using tire irons anymore. Don't most shops selling motorcycle tires have pneumatic tire installation equipment, and balancing machines?

When I had a garage full of bikes, I installed the tires and took the rim with tire on to the local dealer to get balanced only. However, I have trust issues, and prefer to wreck my own stuff. I still install my tires, but only have the one bike anymore. The day I can't install a motorcycle tire is when I quit riding a motorcycle. Same goes for kick starting one.
 
I usually install my own tires. But the one time I thought I'd get a little ahead, I took this wheel to a dirt bike race tuner who I thought were good. Yes, they had a machine. But many small shops still use tire irons. I actually prefer that they use irons. Because I've had an instance when they have scratched up the hub by using a machine.

If my front Dunlop rim wasn't in such great shape, I'd just go with aluminum rims front and back.
 
Forgot to say I'd quit riding because I'd probably hurt myself if I didn't have the strength to change a tire or kick start a 750. Nothing to do with being manly or such. I won't ride in the wet anymore, so obviously I turned in my manly badge at some point. ;)
 
Shop I used to work at in TN would do either way--machine or "by hand" with tire irons. Usually the people who specifically asked for the "by hand" method were the guys who had really expensive PM billet wheels on Harley show bikes. On a related note: on my P11 I used a pair of the Akront repops you can get on eBay from an italian seller--they look great, but when I installed the tires, I was very surprised at how much of a mark the irons left on the rim. I've changed hundreds of tires without marking the rims, but in this case I came off looking like a rookie, which I found irritating. All I can think is that the new rims are softer than I am used to, perhaps all the old alumin(i)um rims I've changed tires on over the years have been age or work hardened?
 
Shop I used to work at in TN would do either way--machine or "by hand" with tire irons. Usually the people who specifically asked for the "by hand" method were the guys who had really expensive PM billet wheels on Harley show bikes.
In another thread recently someone (I believe it was Fast Eddie) presented thermoplastic rim protectors, to be used while levering tires on/off. Might be an idea to look up that thread.

- Knut
 
I use Motion Pro rim protectors. I used to cut up plastic gallon jugs and use 3x4" pieces of that plastic, but those didn't last that long. The Motion Pro protectors are a lot tougher. I also use the Motion Pro bead breaker bars.
 
In another thread recently someone (I believe it was Fast Eddie) presented thermoplastic rim protectors, to be used while levering tires on/off. Might be an idea to look up that thread.

- Knut
Yeah, we had those at the place where I used to work, I never bothered to get any for myself because I never did any damage on the stuff I have worked on since then (admittedly I've been working on heavily used dirt bikes, where the odd scratch wouldn't even be noticed). Confident of my abilities, I was very surprised when I scarred up my new rims. Next time, I'll be sure to have some plastic rim protectors. In retrospect, the fact that I was using super heavy duty off road tires might also have been a factor--still, though, it's not the first time I have installed heavy duty tires on aluminum rims.
 
Removed tires recently and flattened the lip of Dunlop WM2-19 using a little 10" tool kit bar; and it didn't take much effort. Had no problem doing the rear WM3-18, but the front had more corrosion, which may have been a contributing factor. I was going to get both rims restored, but after seeing how easily the front deformed, I think I'll go with Devon. Thanks for the tip!
 
I did this on my recent restoration for a friend/customer. I used my manual Coates tire changer and getting the top bead seated with two rim locks on the rear wheel was an absolute struggle. Afterwards I finally noticed the damage I did with the heel of the large tire bar. I was shattered. Turns out the damage is mostly cosmetic and isn't easily seen unless you're looking for it, and I have a frame specialist who may be able to press it dowm again without doing further damage? Yes, it was a newly rechromed OEM Dunlop. :confused: C-ya, Jer
P11 bent Dunlop
 
I have used Buchanans for steel chrome rim straightening and been very happy. Not recently but 10 years ago.
http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/labor.asp
I agree--I've been using Buchanan's for 25 years and have been pleased with everything I've ever gotten from them. Admittedly, I only buy spokes from them, but whenever I have needed custom spokes, (custom length or diameter) they've never had a problem with what I was asking for.
 
After going through this thread I must say I too have reached the point where the next rim will be a new one not a rechrome. The reason is as noted, old aged and weaken areas you don't see. My Devon rims may not be a good as an original Dunlop or Jones
IN NEW CONDITION but they are pretty good and SS has the advantage of being easy to hide scratches.
It doesn't hurt that Devon is close to home either.
 
thanks for the suggestions. I am going to take the tire off and see if i can see any rust. I didn’t think there was any but it has been a while. If i can’t straighten myself and it is completely rust- free, will take it to Buchanans.
 
Here are some pictures of junglebikers P11 which I am proud to say is being assembled in my garage.!
 

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