Oil pump back
- Thread starter marshg246
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Make one?
marshg246
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OK, how to make one - what material? How to put the groove between gears in? More importantly, how to repair? What threads? Hand tools only please - no lathe, no mill, etc.
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4 dots of brass solder with an acetylene torch, drill, tap, flatten..
marshg246
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Yes, I could braze - never heard of brass solder. Generally, when you braze you heat the steel or iron to the heat that will melt the rod. If the back is brass and the rod is brass, you'd have to be a magician to accomplish that! Also, things tend to warp when brazing.
marshg246
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You don't have to make parts to be professional. I have parts made on CNC machines when needed - don't need a lathe or mill. I rebuild bikes. I stick weld and braze. I have never brazed brass and I've never heard of it being done. I'm also not a metallurgist - I don't know if they are brass, bronze, or some other alloy of copper.
acadian
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You don't need specialized equipment to make a new back, you can buy a sheet of 4mm brass from most metal supply stores, trace the pattern and cut it with a low speed tool (a variable speed bandsaw is ideal). The groove is just a shallow cut with a small rotary zip tool.
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..but if you can't, then you aren't..
marshg246
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What a ridicules statement! Can't and don't choose to are different. I can't think of a single thing I've needed a lathe for in the 55 years I've worked on motorcycles other than maybe making a special drift. To spend thousands of dollars to make what I can buy for a few dollars would be stupid! A mill might make sense once in a while but again thousands verses tens makes no sense. My shop is 24' x 32' and is brim full all the time - I have the tools I need to rebuild bikes.
Quick to insult, not so quick to answer the question asked or the follow-on questions!
Yes, I can buy some material, hand shape a back, transfer punch and once I've figured out the threads, and drill the holes and then tap them. I'm guessing 2BA. All told, a couple of hours effort - in other words $300 of my time. Does anyone know of anyone who sells them - $50 would be cheap.
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Check ebay motors , there is one at 29.99 $ , not a cdo one (tho it was said to be ?) but the brass plate will fit
NickZ
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Yes, 2BA.
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I've never looked as I've never had the issue (yet), but is there room for longer screws and self locking nuts?
2BA is pretty close to M5 - I've done a few Concentric carb bodies with good results
Glad I'm not the moderator... I could see the handbags coming out for a minute back there
2BA is pretty close to M5 - I've done a few Concentric carb bodies with good results
Glad I'm not the moderator... I could see the handbags coming out for a minute back there
What makes a person a professional?
The Oxford English Dictionary defines a professional (the noun) as: 1. a person engaged or qualified in a profession. 2. a person engaged in a specific activity, especially a sport, as a main paid occupation rather than as a pastime.
I'd say being a fitter is a profession. Most mechanics in garages are fitters. Secondly, the paid activity of rebuilding bikes earns a person the title of a prefessional.
While we can argue over the word "restorer", you don't have to be a panel beater to call yourself a professional fitter and manager of restorations.
- Knut
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Brass tends to be a soft metal. I wonder if the original backing plate is made from bronze. The wear properties would be very different between the two.
BTW, the term "fitter" seems to be a European term that doesn't have a lot of currency in North America. I recently had coffee with a couple of "fitter turners" trained in England in the 1960's. When they came to Canada, they said nobody knew what that their trade was and they were slotted as millwrights in the larger job sites they worked on.
BTW, the term "fitter" seems to be a European term that doesn't have a lot of currency in North America. I recently had coffee with a couple of "fitter turners" trained in England in the 1960's. When they came to Canada, they said nobody knew what that their trade was and they were slotted as millwrights in the larger job sites they worked on.
marshg246
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Ya, that's why I wondered in a couple of posts what material. There are LOTs of alloys of copper, here are some along with their melting temps:
Beryllium-Copper Alloy 865 - 955 °C
Brass 930 °C
Brass, Admiralty 900 - 940 °C
Brass, Red 990 - 1025 °C
Brass, Yellow 905 - 932 °C
Bronze, Aluminum 1027 - 1038 °C
Bronze, Manganese 865 - 890 °C
Copper-Nickel Alloy 1060-1240 °C
The brazing rods I have are 920- 940 °C so very little room for error even if one of the higher temp alloys. Silver rods might well work - 640-680 °C but would it hold up to being drilled and tapped.
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Like copper based brazing rods, silver solder also differs in temp and strength. If you used a higher temp "harder" silver solder, it would probably work fine. Maybe Ludwig has some thoughts.
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