Oil Leaking From Timing Cover

Is it normal to have a bit of drool inside the points cover after 2000 miles?

Bonzo said:

I know, I know. They all do that.

This seems excessive and one of the jobs I'd like to look at.

It's coming from behind the cover. Would this suggest the contacts points oil seal isn't doing what it's supposed to?

Before I 'go in', I'd like to have an idea of the parts I may need rather than wait a few days for an order.

I have a cover gasket, I'm thinking I'd need the seal too. I also need the service tool #064292?

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It may well be the tacho drive, I notice what looks like oil at the cylinder base.

If it is the timing cover, check to see if some ham fisted DPO gouged the jointing surfaces, usually from prying the cover off with a screwdriver.

JS Motorsports sells great fibreglass gaskets, they work well.

BERT said:

Is it normal to have a bit of drool inside the points cover?

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No

BERT said:

Is it normal to have a bit of drool inside the points cover after 2000 miles?

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No.

One thing that does seem to loosen are the bolts holding the head steady to the head.

To narrow it down clean up the area, I suggest Simple Green or similar. Please do this with a "cold" engine; doing the cleaning after screaming to your driveway may teach you something you don't want to learn...

From the picture you posted it looks like the timing cover gasket is either broken of has an old piece of a former gasket that wasn't removed behind it. In the early days it wasn't uncommon to expect new gaskets to be more effective (tolerant of uncleaned crap) then they were designed for. Which brings to mind mantra of the flat-rate mechanic:

Why don't we have the time to do it right, but always have time to do it over?

So with clean surface go for short ride, have a tissue ready. when you get back dab one of the 4 tissue corners gently, starting above the tach cable''s crimped sleeve and continue to the timing cover. If this tells what you can already see, pull the cover and clean both mating surfaces until you can't feel, with a finger, ANY anomalies.

Extra points if you put the cover on a flat, thick glass plate and with a .003 feeler gauge see where you have clearance then, using the flat glass, work the cover on wet/dry sanding paper until the gap(s) previously measured .002 or less. When I have an engine apart I do both surfaces.

Best

If you’re new to Nortons, here’s my advice…

Never buy single gaskets… buy 1 or even 2 full gasket sets and always buy 2-3 (at least) whenever you need one, and create a ‘gasket box’ as it’s SO handy to have ‘stock’ of things like this.

When it comes to fault finding, always, ALWAYS check the simplest possible things first, ie nipping those screws up might be all it needs.

Conversely, get good at thinking about cause and effect and root cause problem solving, ie why is such a simple and usually trouble free gasket leaking, is it a symptom of something else, like ineffective engine breathing?

If you do that, the simplest fixes will often work, but when they don’t, at least you’re ahead of the game thinking about the next possibility.

Basically, Norton ownership requires you to be good at problem solving and experimentation !

But, look on the bright side, scientists and doctors reckon that constant problem solving is excellent for the brain, and even good at fighting off / delaying things like Alzheimer’s, so it’s official, Norton ownership is good for mental health !

worntorn said:

This is one area that does not leak at all on my Nortons, so there is hope.
The timing covers on the BSA and Vins are also dry.
Some other areas are needing a little help, but the timing covers are all bone dry.

Glen

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Good to know Glen, cheers.

Fast Eddie said:

But, look on the bright side, scientists and doctors reckon that constant problem solving is excellent for the brain, and even good at fighting off / delaying things like Alzheimer’s, so it’s official, Norton ownership is good for mental health !

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The NHS should provide us with a Commando to fettle. Hmm, it might happen

Fast Eddie said:

If you’re new to Nortons, here’s my advice…

Never buy single gaskets… buy 1 or even 2 full gasket sets and always buy 2-3 (at least) whenever you need one, and create a ‘gasket box’ as it’s SO handy to have ‘stock’ of things like this.

When it comes to fault finding, always, ALWAYS check the simplest possible things first, ie nipping those screws up might be all it needs.

Conversely, get good at thinking about cause and effect and root cause problem solving, ie why is such a simple and usually trouble free gasket leaking, is it a symptom of something else, like ineffective engine breathing?

If you do that, the simplest fixes will often work, but when they don’t, at least you’re ahead of the game thinking about the next possibility.

Basically, Norton ownership requires you to be good at problem solving and experimentation !

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All good points taken on board Eddie - cheers.

marshg246 said:

Which is bad for obvious reasons. Less obvious is that the cradle to engine bolts and the front isoelastic bolts are part of what clamps the crankcases together. Depending on the sealer used, them being loose can cause oil leaks that are hard/impossible to resolve without splitting the cases and if loose enough even worse things could happen.

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Yes indeed, the sealing face can be compromised. And worse thing do definitely happen, loose cradle bolts lead to cracked crank cases.

Bonzo said:

The NHS should provide us with a Commando to fettle. Hmm, it might happen

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In your dreams, but with someone called Boris in charge who loves ❤ to party . . . .who knows?

Bonzo said:

I have just come back to the pc to report these very findings. The top three screws had indeed backed off around a 1/8th turn.

I need to up my game after too many years spent on modern bikes

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My modern Tiger 1050 did just that. Just needed to be nipped up.

I nipped all the screws up soon after I posted this thread last week. I warmed the engine up and got a bit more on them, and the cover is oil tight at the moment

Here's a before & after showing how much the screws had backed off. (In my defense, I'd only just collected the bike and was a tad overwhelmed/excited)

Bonzo said:

I nipped all the screws up soon after I posted this thread last week. I warmed the engine up and got a bit more on them, and the cover is oil tight at the moment

Here's a before & after showing how much the screws had backed off. (In my defense, I'd only just collected the bike and was a tad overwhelmed/excited)

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I use socket head bolts in place of the original slot screws - they are much easier to tighten and less risk of slipping and gouging your timing cover.

The course thread does not help, I just use the large slot head out of an old school impact driver with a socket to fit and a 1/4" drive torque wrench.
A smidge of Wellseal on the threads. (semi flexible locking agent) as an option.

L.A.B. said:

As you already have the timing cover gasket, then:

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Circlip pliers?

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AAU or EI rotor extractor tool according to what it is.
The ignition timing will need to be re-set afterwards so a strobe light.

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I got around to removing the timing cover today. Thanks to Les' advice I pre-ordered the above items.

I knew the contact breaker seal was goosed as there was a weep collecting in the bottom...



..caused by..



I'm glad to have bought a new oil pump seal too..



Any idea what has caused that to mash up like that? Cover gasket thickness perhaps?

Bonzo said:

I got around to removing the timing cover today. Thanks to Les' advice I pre-ordered the above items.

I knew the contact breaker seal was goosed as there was a weep collecting in the bottom...

..caused by..

I'm glad to have bought a new oil pump seal too..

Any idea what has caused that to mash up like that? Cover gasket thickness perhaps?

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Hmmm that pump seal is not good
Are there any shims behind it?
Also if you haven't bought the camshaft seal guide tool be vary careful putting the timing cover back on
Oops sorry,I see you've ordered the tool
Cheers

baz said:

Hmmm that pump seal is not good
Are there any shims behind it?

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I don't know to be honest baz. I removed the cover this avvie when I nipped home from work during lunchtime and didn't get time for a deep dive investigation.

I'll report back tomorrow

baz said:

Also if you haven't bought the camshaft seal guide tool be vary careful putting the timing cover back on
Oops sorry,I see you've ordered the tool
Cheers

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Yep, bought the tool.

Bonzo said:

Any idea what has caused that to mash up like that? Cover gasket thickness perhaps?

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Check for any sharp edges around the seal recess in the timing cover?

That red camshaft seal could be the original.