Oil Drain Plug Stripped

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So it's not completely stripped but I suspect it will only be a matter of time.

I'm thinking a Timesert. SInce the bike will wetsump I figure I can drain the sump, fix the threads, pour the old oil back in and let it flow out taking any swarf with it. Then put in fresh oil.

I suspect 50% will say that will work, 50% will say take apart the motor and 50% will say that if I take out the motor I'll just paint it yellow.

I figure 50% are correct.
 
swoosh, I would go ahead and do it exactly as you laid it out

or, maybe I would put if off by draining the oil from the big ass screened thing right behind it

actually, you could put it off forever that way

assuming your bike's year built had such a thing
 
1up3down said:
swoosh, I would go ahead and do it exactly as you laid it out

or, maybe I would put if off by draining the oil from the big ass screened thing right behind it

actually, you could put it off forever that way

assuming your bike's year built had such a thing

If it had one of those big assed screen things I'd just JB Weld the little hole right on up. :mrgreen:
 
Stripped mine completely last year...a fellow Nortoneer and I re-tapped up to the next size and installed a simple helicoil...1/2 hour operation...everything perfect now.
 
If it had one of those big assed screen things I'd just JB Weld the little hole right on up.


or, you could wad up some duc tape and then super glue the plug in that little ass hole........
 
cmessenk said:
Stripped mine completely last year...a fellow Nortoneer and I re-tapped up to the next size and installed a simple helicoil...1/2 hour operation...everything perfect now.

How did you clean out the swarf?
 
You can keep most of the metal shavings from getting inside the cases by putting grease on the drill bit and tap, which will trap most of the shavings...
 
northern750 said:
You can keep most of the metal shavings from getting inside the cases by putting grease on the drill bit and tap, which will trap most of the shavings...

I've heard that trick before.
 
My Mk3 stripped that thread too.
I drained the oil and drilled slowly with the drill covered in grease and kept cleaning the grease and adding more grease. Same with the tap.
Then flushed the cases using a plastic bottle with a thin hose about 6" long. Filled the bottle with petrol and squeezed the bottle so the petrol squirted up and washed the swarf out the newley tapped hole.
(from underneath) Just make sure the drain hole is the lowest point.
Then inserted the Helicoil or what ever you call them over there.
The scary part is breaking the tang off without it going inside.

graeme
 
If not completly stripped you may be able to do a reliable salvage using 10mm-1.5 pitch bolt,
 
splatt said:
If not completly stripped you may be able to do a reliable salvage using 10mm-1.5 pitch bolt,

I'd just rather do it right. Trying to keep the number of metric bolts to 2 (tank well nuts). :mrgreen:
 
swooshdave said:
splatt said:
If not completly stripped you may be able to do a reliable salvage using 10mm-1.5 pitch bolt,

I'd just rather do it right. Trying to keep the number of metric bolts to 2 (tank well nuts). :mrgreen:
So you will be stripping the engine down mounting up in mill, tapping nice and square, refacing seal surface then.
A 10mm bolt will still be salvageable with 3/8 thread repair system, when you are able to to do the job properly,
 
splatt said:
swooshdave said:
splatt said:
If not completly stripped you may be able to do a reliable salvage using 10mm-1.5 pitch bolt,

I'd just rather do it right. Trying to keep the number of metric bolts to 2 (tank well nuts). :mrgreen:
So you will be stripping the engine down mounting up in mill, tapping nice and square, refacing seal surface then.
A 10mm bolt will still be salvageable with 3/8 thread repair system, when you are able to to do the job properly,

No, I'll probably just goop this on it...

Oil Drain Plug Stripped
 
Do the best you can to reduce swarf but I think that the oil pump should deposit any metal shavings in the filter anyway.
I drilled, tapped and heli coiled one drain plug hole. The "tang" of the heliocoil finally came out with an oil change.
Mike
 
Do the best you can to reduce swarf but I think that the oil pump should deposit any metal shavings in the filter anyway.
I drilled, tapped and heli coiled one drain plug hole. The "tang" of the heliocoil finally came out with an oil change.

Yep, reality seems to be, you do the best you can and then let the Nortons strong constitution consume what's left.
 
I wouldn't worry about it too much Swoosh. I've worked at several bike shops and we'd do these repairs with Helicoils or just taps regularly, sometimes once or twice a week. Most people don't realise how easy it is to strip the drain plug.
I know sometimes comparing old Brits to modern bikes is like apples to oranges, but you should be fine, just use the tips already mentioned with the grease and flushing.
Now stop reading this and go fix it, before it gets more confusing.
 
Right, swooshdave, tomorrow it should be clear and 70's in you area. Don't let one little plug keep you home.
 
Diablouph said:
Right, swooshdave, tomorrow it should be clear and 70's in you area. Don't let one little plug keep you home.

Oh, it's not bad enough to not ride. Heck, I rode today. Norton club meeting tomorrow. Weird weather right now, humid and it can't decide if it wants to rain more or not.
 
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