Oil change for dummies

Status
Not open for further replies.
MikeM

MikeM

Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
556
Country flag
Self admitted newbie here. Background, 71 750 Commando newly rebuilt engine.
I need to change the oil for the break in oil.
I see there is somewhat of a filter in the the oil tank. Please give me some guidance on the correct procedure.
Drain the oil tank and flush the oil tank filter?
Drain the crankcase and clean the bottom crankcase screen?
Fill the oil tank?
Do I need to prime the bottom end somehow?
I dont want to smoke my new engine.
What is the correct procedure.
Legitimate question what is the proper procedure?
I am actually mechanicaly incined.
This is new to me.
FWIW I did a search and did not find what I needed.
Thanks in advance.
The only dumb question is the one not asked.
 
Just put a decent oil in it and go ride it bloody hard. Running in oil is a ploy to sell more of the stuff.
Dereck. [ a mere mechanic, what would I know ]

ps check out other scientific reports made on this forum. If I can find them I will note it here for you.


As for your question, if you have already been running the engine, go for a ride to warm the oil and pump the oil in the sump back into the tank, then drain the oil tank. Fill the oil tank again and go for your rides. Don't piss around trying to clean the engine as well, nor should you ever use any flushing oils. If the bike has been standing for a long time, you will need to drain the sump, [ and probably let some oil out of the primary drive, [ as the oil in the sump can move into the primary and over fill it ]. I understand some engines [ combats???? ] don't have a drain plug [ haven't seen one yet ]. That's tough if there is no drain plug, and if this is the case, then look at the first sentence here if your oil tank is full
 
Pour 6 to 8 oz the exhaust tappet ala pushrod tube. If concerned, this will give the sump something to draw on.
 
Drain the oil from the sump and tank once warm. A tip is to turn your fuel taps off and run the carb circuit dry (see latter) Refit your bolt/plugs then top up too halfway to 2/3rds up the dipstick.
If you are really concerned about dry parts then prime your system by dropping the plugs and kicking the engine over a dozen or so times (ignition and fuel taps off-carbs should be empty from running the system dry).
Personally, I just go for a ride round the block, drop the drain plugs and oil filter. Let it sit for half hr and have a cuppa coffee, refit new filter and drain plugs, top up with oil.

Don't overfill the oil tank beyond 2/3. It'll pump oil everywhere. Start the bike, run for a bit, switch off check oil level. Top up to 2/3rds if required.
Check oil weekly if daily rider.
 
Don't forget to drain/change your primary chaincase oil , and while you are at it you might aswell change the gearbox oil.
I have small notebooks that I write the mileage and date in when I do any sort of maintenance like this, it beats guessing.
sam
 
MikeM said:
Self admitted newbie here. Background, 71 750 Commando newly rebuilt engine.
I need to change the oil for the break in oil.
I see there is somewhat of a filter in the the oil tank. Please give me some guidance on the correct procedure.
Drain the oil tank and flush the oil tank filter?
Drain the crankcase and clean the bottom crankcase screen?
Fill the oil tank?
Do I need to prime the bottom end somehow?
I dont want to smoke my new engine.
What is the correct procedure.
Legitimate question what is the proper procedure?
I am actually mechanicaly incined.
This is new to me.
FWIW I did a search and did not find what I needed.
Thanks in advance.
The only dumb question is the one not asked.
Click to expand...


The "filter" in the oil tank is for lost washers, nuts, bolts, spanners and an occasional welding rod stubs.. Strainer, (colander) is a more appropriate term IMO..
Drain as much oil out of the system as you can via any means 2 or 3 times in the first 1000k's/mls.. $3-4K of motor V's $200 of oil and filters is a no brainer to me.. Hopefully you have a "remote" oil filter down by the swing arm ?? use 1 with each oil change to collect all those "miniscule" bits.. Multiple cheap filters in the early stages (1k mls) is a good investment..

You will get some "flack" re micron sizes of particles and oil filter types, maybe. Its real basic, "clean it out" with oil changes and filters every cuppla tanks of fuel.. Good luck.. That what i think.
 
Regarding filter in oil tank:

It is more of a screen, as others have said. For your own peace of mind, check it to be sure it is not clogged with sludge which will restrict oil flow to engine and could starve it for oil. To check, drain oil, and remove oil feed line to timing case manifold, then unscrew large nut. Screen will come out....flush with petrol. Only need to do this once per 50K miles.

While the screen is out, you can insert your finger into the oil tank and feel tank bottom for sludge build-up. If more than 1/8 inch of sludge, I would remove tank and flush with petrol. Don't let EPA know you are using petrol for parts washing. :D

Slick
 
And if you remove the oil tank from the bike and flush with gasoline be prepared to re-paint the tank.
The gas will certainly solve the sludge in the bottom, and also take off the flaking 40 year old paint from the exterior!
 
Bob Z. said:
And if you remove the oil tank from the bike and flush with gasoline be prepared to re-paint the tank.
The gas will certainly solve the sludge in the bottom, and also take off the flaking 40 year old paint from the exterior!
Click to expand...

Certainly true if ethanol laced petrol and allowed to soak exterior paint awhile. I recently washed some painted parts in petrol (just a rinse off ... not a soak) with no loss of paint. If you are chicken, use some green biodegradable product suitable for 80 year old grannies, and flush, and flush, and flush...... :D

Getting serious, kerosene is a good parts washing product, but hard to find in some places.

Slick
 
I'll probably get flamed for this but I would never use use petrol/gas for a solvent, it is much too flammable. As a young kid I got my ass whipped more than than once by the old man for doing this. Paint thinner or kerosene (parafin in the UK?) works great. Both are less flammable than gas and neither should attack your paint. When I cleaned out my oil tank mine I used paint thinner (not lacquer thinner of MEK, they will attack your paint). I plugged the ports, poured it in , sloshed it around, dumped it out and repeated until the tank was cleaned, Then I followed it up with simple green + water and dried it with a hot air gun. I also flushed out my oil lines.

If you don't have the remote filter, get one. The tank and sump filter will only take out the cigaret butts!

Dave
 
drp said:
I'll probably get flamed for this but I would never use use petrol/gas for a solvent, it is much too flammable. As a young kid I got my ass whipped more than than once by the old man for doing this. Paint thinner or kerosene (parafin in the UK?) works great. Both are less flammable than gas and neither should attack your paint. When I cleaned out my oil tank mine I used paint thinner (not lacquer thinner of MEK, they will attack your paint). I plugged the ports, poured it in , sloshed it around, dumped it out and repeated until the tank was cleaned, Then I followed it up with simple green + water and dried it with a hot air gun. I also flushed out my oil lines.

If you don't have the remote filter, get one. The tank and sump filter will only take out the cigaret butts!

Dave
Click to expand...

You are 110% correct....all good advice.....everyone please take note. As for me, I am a sinner. Do as Dave says, not as I do.

Slick
 
Bob Z. said:
And if you remove the oil tank from the bike and flush with gasoline be prepared to re-paint the tank.
The gas will certainly solve the sludge in the bottom, and also take off the flaking 40 year old paint from the exterior!
Click to expand...

I took mine off the bike and took it to a car wash and pressure washer the crap out of the inside. Then I dried out the inside with my wife's hair dryer. Painted it with a rattle can and filled it with oil. There was so much sludge in the tank. I don't think it had ever been cleaned.
 
I can only admit to you guys that for the first oil change after break in I wanted to completely clean out the oil tank looking for metal dust. I used a few of my wife's tampons to mop up the last of the oil in the tank before wiping it clean with a solvent dampened rag-on-a-coat hanger. They worked great. Just drop one in the bottom of the tank, let it soak up oil for about 10 min and pull it out with the string. :wink:
 
Roadrash said:
I can only admit to you guys that for the first oil change after break in I wanted to completely clean out the oil tank looking for metal dust. I used a few of my wife's tampons to mop up the last of the oil in the tank before wiping it clean with a solvent dampened rag-on-a-coat hanger. They worked great. Just drop one in the bottom of the tank, let it soak up oil for about 10 min and pull it out with the string. :wink:
Click to expand...


Thanks for that info......maybe a little too much info :shock:
At my age a "Depends" with a piece of baling wire, may be a better choice! :mrgreen:
 
Roadrash said:
I can only admit to you guys that for the first oil change after break in I wanted to completely clean out the oil tank looking for metal dust. I used a few of my wife's tampons to mop up the last of the oil in the tank before wiping it clean with a solvent dampened rag-on-a-coat hanger. They worked great. Just drop one in the bottom of the tank, let it soak up oil for about 10 min and pull it out with the string. :wink:
Click to expand...

So does the bike run fine for 26 days out of a month now and then give you a hard time for the rest ? :)
 
trident sam said:
Roadrash said:
I can only admit to you guys that for the first oil change after break in I wanted to completely clean out the oil tank looking for metal dust. I used a few of my wife's tampons to mop up the last of the oil in the tank before wiping it clean with a solvent dampened rag-on-a-coat hanger. They worked great. Just drop one in the bottom of the tank, let it soak up oil for about 10 min and pull it out with the string. :wink:
Click to expand...

So does the bike run fine for 26 days out of a month now and then give you a hard time for the rest ? :)
Click to expand...

Ha! Good one. :lol:
 
+2 TridentSam.....LMAO......but we are getting off thread here....beware the stay on thread police.
But you will get a pass , or Get Out of Jail card, for that one :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Q
Oil change/return question
Replies
7
Views
220
quawk
Q
S
Oil change after gearbox rebuild
Replies
6
Views
379
ilikevelos
I
kn0ck4times
  • Locked
No oil return after changing rocker lines and oil change???
Replies
8
Views
803
johnm
johnm
Norcoastal
  • Locked
Wiring Harness For Dummies
2
Replies
22
Views
2,626
Fast Eddie
Fast Eddie
R
Oil Change on 2013 Commando FS
Replies
8
Views
1,104
EstuaryBoy
EstuaryBoy
Back
Top