Odd fork rebuild question

So first off let me say i KNOW i should have ordered new steel/bronze bushes. But i didnt, just new seals, and they measure out fine and i want it on the road. So the steel bush required a little persuasion to remove from the old stanchion and i deformed it a little bit on the edge. Obviously this has to slide smoothly in the slider so that was a problem. I chucked it up in the lathe and beveled the edge to take off the little lips that i created from my oh-so-gentle...persuasion. Reassembled on new stanchions and I cant see or think of any reason that this would create a problem but i figured i would throw it out there to those with more knowledge. Any reason this could be a problem? As a side note i always find it amusing on a project when the seemingly simple parts that you give no thought too turn out to be the most annoying...i.e. sliding the forks back in the triples...talk about a tight fit! what a PITA!

I'll see your odd question.
No problem chamfering the od of the steel bushes to remove burrs.

I turned up some thin shims and shortened the steel bushes so they, as an assembly, would be a close axial fit between the stantion shoulder and the retaining ring. This loose axial fit of the OE items sometimes can be heard as a 'something is loose' type of noise when wheeling and taking of the stand. Nitpicking really but I did it anyway.

Now my question, why did you take them off lacking replacements? Curiosity?
All the best.

usefulidiot said:

Any reason this could be a problem? !

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Since they didn't come from the factory like this, you will have to experiment and report back to us ! They are not exactly a very sophisticated design though, can't imagine it will make the slightest difference. Good that you removed any scratch-forming bits though.

usefulidiot said:

i.e. sliding the forks back in the triples...talk about a tight fit! what a PITA!

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Did you wedge them slightly, to make this easy ?. The right sized screwdriver tip, gently tapped in with something light makes a HUGE difference. There is probably a factory tool for this (a screwdriver tapped in with something light ?!)

PS lightly greasing the top of the fork tubes and twisting them into the yokes also makes for easy fitting - and the grease helps keep them rust free inside the headlamp covers.

Probably too late to tell this now though...

I like the shim idea. Wish i'd have thought of that. I'm always looking for lathe projects to get my skills up. I bought new seals and not bushes for a couple reasons:
1: ignorance-when i ordered the seals i did not know there were other wear items in the forks (still a new guy)
2: i'm cheap- when i did learn a little more, figured i'd wait and see how these looked. (basically no discernible play in the assembly and everything slides smooth)


I had to stop in the middle of refitting it all so its not back together yet....def gonna do the screwdriver wedge thanks. Light grease and twisting was what i was trying when i had to stop...i think this and wedging will do the trick

About only way I know assess top bushes on stanchions is once installed with wheel, to take up all other 'slack's, is lift front up and lightly push-pull fro-aft to sense the slight wiggle allowed, that ain't parts deforming. Even so once rolling, loads on fork the slack is taken up and sensed way less than just road texture actually deflecting the long items somewhat. Seems these top bushes can last a long time as Peel forks I'm in love with still have orginal bushes as the 2 Two, new pair sets I tried were both looser right out the box. If nit picky on steel bush fit, ink it for witness marks and see if reveals high spots. I 2nd that if smoothly assembles - it will be an inexpensive servicing for undetectable issues.