Norvil rearsets

Thinking of installing rearsets on my Commando as I find the riding position with standard pegs and Corbin seat a bit odd and uncomfortable. I think someone hit the nail on the head in a previous post on this topic when he said that the lower back gets bent in a strange way, especially for taller riders. I am 6'1" and have a 32 inch inseam and am currently running UK-spec handlebars (2 inch rise). I find that this setup does tend to put too much curve in my lower back that is noticeable after 50 miles of riding. In looking at some of the rearset options, I was wondering about which setup is the best for retaining the precise action of the AMC gearbox. I find the gearbox on my Commando a joy to use and would like to maintain as much of that character as possible. It would seem that all of the rearsets employing a linkage are going to suffer somewhat in terms of "feel". How much precision in shifting is lost with rearsets with a linkage? Is it significant? It would seem that reversing the shifter is the best option for retaining precision shifts but the shift pattern gets changed which is OK by me. So this leads me to the Norvil rearsets with the reversed offset shifter they sell. Anyone running this setup? I would love to hear about people's experiences with the different types of rearsets (particularly from those with Corbin seats) and the pros and cons of each. Differences in quality appear to be significant among some of the different rearsets so that is an important issue as well. I am much more interested in putting high quality parts on my bike and price is a secondary consideration. Thanks.

Tobin

If finish quality is a top requirement then stay well away from Dunstall and Hyde. The Norvil ones aren't bad at all. You may want to make something custom to meet your standards.

But you are correct in that the Corbin seat begs for rearsets.

But you are correct in that the Corbin seat begs for rearsets.[/quote]

Guess that rules out a Corbin gunfighter.

illf8ed said:

But you are correct in that the Corbin seat begs for rearsets.

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Guess that rules out a Corbin gunfighter. [/quote]

Sit on one before deciding. It could be that you fit it just fine.

I had Norvil rearsets on a 750 Roadster I used to own.
My experience is with the reversed gear lever it slowed the gear change down , I don't know whether this was because the lever was shorter or what, but the bike went from a great shifting bike into a not great shifting bike. I also found that with the short rear brake cable (that was almost impossible to find a good run) the brake was rendered almost useless by a lack of mechanical advantage.
I took the whole set up off and reverted to the sack of spuds riding position.
Others may have different thoughts, but if I ever put rearsets on another pre mk 3 Commando, it would have to have a rear disc.
sam

Hi

Swaped my linkage from clevis pin to rose joint big difference. Agree about the back brake but I only use it in panick anyway!

Chris

Hi TP,
The rearsets sold through http://clubmanracing.com/rearsets.php look as good as any I have seen and are reasonably priced (compared to the usually beat up ones on Ebay).

GB

geo46er said:

Hi TP,
The rearsets sold through http://clubmanracing.com/rearsets.php look as good as any I have seen and are reasonably priced (compared to the usually beat up ones on Ebay).

GB

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I'm not happy the way the footpeg ends are finished. It's just a metal washer and a regular hex bolt. Not very sexy.

trident sam said:

I had Norvil rearsets on a 750 Roadster I used to own.
My experience is with the reversed gear lever it slowed the gear change down , I don't know whether this was because the lever was shorter or what, but the bike went from a great shifting bike into a not great shifting bike. I also found that with the short rear brake cable (that was almost impossible to find a good run) the brake was rendered almost useless by a lack of mechanical advantage.
I took the whole set up off and reverted to the sack of spuds riding position.
Others may have different thoughts, but if I ever put rearsets on another pre mk 3 Commando, it would have to have a rear disc.
sam

Click to expand...

Thanks for all the replies guys! Has anyone tried switching the rear brake to rod actuation to address the lack of mechanical advantage issue that Sam mentions above? It would seem to me that even with the stock length cable the rear brake is going to be less effective (already not that great!) with the shorter pedal of any rearset

swooshdave said:

geo46er said:

Hi TP,
The rearsets sold through http://clubmanracing.com/rearsets.php look as good as any I have seen and are reasonably priced (compared to the usually beat up ones on Ebay).

GB

Click to expand...

I'm not happy the way the footpeg ends are finished. It's just a metal washer and a regular hex bolt. Not very sexy.

Click to expand...

I agree. Looks pretty cheesy. Should be pretty easy to sexy it up though no?

These are almost identical to the Hemming's unit I got from OldBritts. They may look a little cheesy to some, but they are not. These things are very tough and the functionality is perfect. The weight reduction is profound and the usage of the stock cable and brake light switch is a plus. YES, yes, you can bitch about the stupid stock brake switch but you must consider what its function is and in this regard the elegant simplicity. Yes, I said it, elegant.

Cheesy? Just try bending these lever tubes for fine adjustment. Even with the funky ass rear brakes of the stock Norton, the cable will break long before this lever will flex a mm.

trident sam said:

I had Norvil rearsets on a 750 Roadster I used to own.
My experience is with the reversed gear lever it slowed the gear change down , I don't know whether this was because the lever was shorter or what, but the bike went from a great shifting bike into a not great shifting bike. I also found that with the short rear brake cable (that was almost impossible to find a good run) the brake was rendered almost useless by a lack of mechanical advantage.
I took the whole set up off and reverted to the sack of spuds riding position.
Others may have different thoughts, but if I ever put rearsets on another pre mk 3 Commando, it would have to have a rear disc.
sam

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A bit late in the day for this conversation perhaps, but could that be related to the curved (bent sounds unkind!) linkage rod?

My experience is that almost regardless of diameter, non-straight rods almost always flex even under light stress, which would translate into poorer shifts. While its a nice geearbox, you apply more force than you'd think , so the rod would bend a bit sort-of taking up slack, then sort-of shift quickly as the force overcomes resistance - net result feels like a less fine, less "snicky" transmission.

With correct wall thickness, a hollow rod would be stiffer, as would a larger diameter, but these things - for obvious reasons - are usually built down to a price not up to a quaility.

Obviously appropriately lubricated heim- or rose-joints are far better than clevis pins regardless of diameter but add to cost.

Alex

Has anyone tried switching the rear brake to rod actuation to address the lack of mechanical advantage issue that Sam mentions above? It would seem to me that even with the stock length cable the rear brake is going to be less effective (already not that great!) with the shorter pedal of any rearset

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Yes it's a shorter lever but the leverage ratio between the cable attachment arm and the pivot and same to pedal is at least as good as the original stock lever. Mine works well but it does use cheap ebay shoes, Chinese I'm guessing.
Like Chris I changed to rose joints on the gear side, just cheap throttle application ones and it made a difference. What is nasty though is the sloppy fit of the lever pivot on the footrest stud. I have to shim mine with soft drinks can material which needs redoing.

I think Norton put a cable on the rear brake of the Commando changing from a rod previous on the Atlas due to the rear wheel/brake moves with the engine in the isolastics (for and aft) while the brake pedal is fixed to the frame. There would be a potential for the brake to pulse with engine movement if rod actuated.

What about these from Kenny Cummings ?

Keith1069 said:

Has anyone tried switching the rear brake to rod actuation to address the lack of mechanical advantage issue that Sam mentions above? It would seem to me that even with the stock length cable the rear brake is going to be less effective (already not that great!) with the shorter pedal of any rearset

Click to expand...

Yes it's a shorter lever but the leverage ratio between the cable attachment arm and the pivot and same to pedal is at least as good as the original stock lever. Mine works well but it does use cheap ebay shoes, Chinese I'm guessing.
Like Chris I changed to rose joints on the gear side, just cheap throttle application ones and it made a difference. What is nasty though is the sloppy fit of the lever pivot on the footrest stud. I have to shim mine with soft drinks can material which needs redoing.

Click to expand...

For what this is worth - probably not a lot! - may I suggest you find some stainless shim sheet as the friction prduced by aluminium/aluminum as used in soft drinks cans is quite high, very much more so that steel. A bit of molybdenum as lube and it should last a very long time.

Alex

I have stainless european bars, Interstate tank and Corbin type seat and that setup is a good receipe for back pains! I installed rear sets and now it is much more comfortable. I looked at most of the rearsets offered and bought those that I thought were of great quality and great looks (a bit expensive though). Take a look at the Norton Nouveau site.

I am waiting for those to start shipping, they are gorgeous and coming from Kenny they will fit and work well.

Vince

SGOUD2 said:

I have stainless european bars, Interstate tank and Corbin type seat and that setup is a good receipe for back pains! I installed rear sets and now it is much more comfortable. I looked at most of the rearsets offered and bought those that I thought were of great quality and great looks (a bit expensive though). Take a look at the Norton Nouveau site.

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Are these still available? When i went to the site it says...

"Robert passed away early April 2009

sorry, rearsets are no longer available"

I'd like a set if anyone knows where/if thay can still be found.

Alex

Alexol said:

For what this is worth - probably not a lot! - may I suggest you find some stainless shim sheet as the friction prduced by aluminium/aluminum as used in soft drinks cans is quite high, very much more so that steel. A bit of molybdenum as lube and it should last a very long time.

Alex

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For shim stock, this stuff should work even better if it is the right thickness, and not too expensive either:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005I59PV2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Alex