Norvil Racing Head Steady Compatibility?

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Dan1950 said:
Sorry for the deluge of questions. I have Trixie stripped down for winter repairs/upgrades and don't want to re-install OEM parts only to replace them at a later date.

Others have enlightened me to the advantages of upgrading to Vernier front isolastics and an upgraded head steady.

The previous owner informed me that the bike has the Italian manufacture frame and the Dave Taylor HS is not compatible.

Is the Norvil HS compatible with this frame vintage?

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

Also, the AN site says it is not compatible with the "new" replica tanks. Can anyone shed some light on this factor? I have a text sent to the previous owner asking about how long he has owned the bike to get an idea haw old the tank is.
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Dan,
My m/c also has an Italian frame and used the DaveTaylor style by simply wrapping a .002 feeler guage around the frame where the lower clamp fits.Worked great for many years.A beer can also works
Mike
 
concours said:
OEM rubber biscuit does fine for me, never, ever feel at all unsettled, footpegs & header pipes touched down regularly. Not sure what all the fuss is about.

JMWO
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Having raced a standard and drum braked 1970 Fastback 750 in the 1970s I don't either, if you have MKIII headsteady and Kegler clamps it will be better than an original spec 750....me either...

If the steering head starts to waggle little when your feet are rubbing the floor in top gear, just stay loose on the bars and keep the throttle open. Don't fight.

Get it done and go ride.....

The internet....more thinking about stuff that you used to just go do....and enjoy!

(Yeah! I know, me too!)
 
'The internet....more thinking about stuff that you used to just go do....and enjoy!'

That should be put somewhere like the health warnings on fag packets!

BUT.... Glad these forums DO exist, 'cos sometimes the weather sucks! (thanks Jerry :-) )
 
YING said:
Dan,
My m/c also has an Italian frame and used the DaveTaylor style by simply wrapping a .002 feeler guage around the frame where the lower clamp fits.Worked great for many years.A beer can also works
Mike
Click to expand...
I hope that feeler gauge was 0.020" 1" = 25.4mm, you have got 0.016" to take up!
 
Beer can!!! Don't the Italians prefer vino ??

Mind you, on a serious note, IF the frame has been powder coated isn't it advisable to soften or remove before clamping anything round it??
 
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EstuaryBoy said:
Beer can!!! Don't the Italians prefer vino ??

Mind you, on a serious note, IF the frame has been powder coated isn't it advisable to soften or remove before clamping anything round it??
Click to expand...
Possibly, Italians do enjoy a flavourful red, and I fell in love with Amarone through being somewhere I didn't have to pay 60€ a bottle for it!......but I never found a shortage of drinkable darker beer in 8 years!!

The better beers mainly travel south encarcerated in glass, but Guinness can (sic) be relied on to supply.....tins.....

(of course most of the better stuff is imported from Germany or Belgium, but....it wasn't just me drinking it!)

Serious subject? Really, wine and beer are pretty serious.......however.....

Yet another reason for not powder coating anything! Each job you do you have to remove more of it!!!
 
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I installed a Dave Taylor type headsteady when redoing my Commando . Handling definitely better but I had also done new ISO’s and swing arm bushes, etc so hard to say if the headsteady alone made a quantum difference but it is easy to see that it will not allow side to side displacement of the cylinder head which then translates to twisting the cradle/swing arm which ultimately results in the rear wheel doing a bit of steering . Upgrading the headsteady is a simple thing to do while tank is off so why not do it .
Be aware that the clamp will displace some wiring - I also found I had to remove some material from the top rear corner of the clamp to allow it to slide rearward enough to square up the dog bone link with the frame .
Norvil Racing Head Steady Compatibility?

Norvil Racing Head Steady Compatibility?
 
Richard Tool said:
I installed a Dave Taylor type headsteady when redoing my Commando . Handling definitely better but I had also done new ISO’s and swing arm bushes, etc so hard to say if the headsteady alone made a quantum difference but it is easy to see that it will not allow side to side displacement of the cylinder head which then translates to twisting the cradle/swing arm which ultimately results in the rear wheel doing a bit of steering . Upgrading the headsteady is a simple thing to do while tank is off so why not do it .
Be aware that the clamp will displace some wiring - I also found I had to remove some material from the top rear corner of the clamp to allow it to slide rearward enough to square up the dog bone link with the frame .
View attachment 83227
View attachment 83228
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At the risk of more pedantry, and believe me I am not really a rivet counter, but in amongst your attention to details and great presentation.....you have a washer problem!

A problem that could end up with oil all over that clean motorcycle.

The exhaust rockers don't have washers, let alone oversized stainless ones! They don't need washers for sealing, if oil appears here use a good sealant, maybe Wellseal, when you insert the studs.

The inlet rocker nut does need sealing, but your oversize stainless one probably won't do the job. This nut has a compressible aluminium washer to help seal oil, to be regularly replaced as you do maybe your 3rd clearance check.

But....this may not be your final build, as I don't see gaskets on any of the rocker covers!

Oh! And you need sleeving on that stainless rocker feed, or your manifolds and carbs are going to get the buzz saw treatment.

Great looking build.
 
SteveA said:
At the risk of more pedantry, and believe me I am not really a rivet counter, but in amongst your attention to details and great presentation.....you have a washer problem!

A problem that could end up with oil all over that clean motorcycle.

The exhaust rockers don't have washers, let alone oversized stainless ones! They don't need washers for sealing, if oil appears here use a good sealant, maybe Wellseal, when you insert the studs.

The inlet rocker nut does need sealing, but your oversize stainless one probably won't do the job. This nut has a compressible aluminium washer to help seal oil, to be regularly replaced as you do maybe your 3rd clearance check.

But....this may not be your final build, as I don't see gaskets on any of the rocker covers!

Oh! And you need sleeving on that stainless rocker feed, or your manifolds and carbs are going to get the buzz saw treatment.

Great looking build.
Click to expand...
Thanks for looking out for me . The pictures are a few years old taken during the build . I assume you are referring to the rocker covers , not the rocker end plates . I was unaware of the washer bit but in several thousand miles they have presented no leaks or problems of any sort . My take on the need for washers is not an issue of sealing but one of spreading out the compressive loads of the nuts on 50 year old sand cast aluminum components.
You are correct in that some of this is dry fit . Gaskets were indeed installed at rocker covers and SS oil feed lines are sleeved with clear tubing as a chafe guard .
Thanks again for the cautionary observations .
 
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Richard Tool said:
.......My take on the need for washers is not an issue of sealing but one of spreading out the compressive loads of the nuts on 50 year old sand cast aluminum components.
Click to expand...
I'm not aware that was ever a problem. As it happens, even on my somewhat newer Fullauto head I have circa 50 year old rocker covers!

And the nice chaps at Norton made a neat little cut into the alloy to allow the special nut to seat down square!! ;)

I have heard of the nuts being overtightened and causing bowing of the covers, so a session on the wet and dry on a surface plate occasionally is a good precaution.
 
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