Norvil Racing Head Steady Compatibility?

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Dan1950

Dan1950

1974 MK II Roadster
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Sorry for the deluge of questions. I have Trixie stripped down for winter repairs/upgrades and don't want to re-install OEM parts only to replace them at a later date.

Others have enlightened me to the advantages of upgrading to Vernier front isolastics and an upgraded head steady.

The previous owner informed me that the bike has the Italian manufacture frame and the Dave Taylor HS is not compatible.

Is the Norvil HS compatible with this frame vintage?

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

Also, the AN site says it is not compatible with the "new" replica tanks. Can anyone shed some light on this factor? I have a text sent to the previous owner asking about how long he has owned the bike to get an idea haw old the tank is.
 
Dan1950 said:
Sorry for the deluge of questions. I have Trixie stripped down for winter repairs/upgrades and don't want to re-install OEM parts only to replace them at a later date.

Others have enlightened me to the advantages of upgrading to Vernier front isolastics and an upgraded head steady.

The previous owner informed me that the bike has the Italian manufacture frame and the Dave Taylor HS is not compatible.

Is the Norvil HS compatible with this frame vintage?

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

Also, the AN site says it is not compatible with the "new" replica tanks. Can anyone shed some light on this factor? I have a text sent to the previous owner asking about how long he has owned the bike to get an idea haw old the tank is.
Click to expand...
The Italian frame has a 25mm frame tube to clamp to
Not 1"
You'd need to shim the clamp or remove some material from the clamp to allow it to clamp the smaller tube
 
The Norvil top iso is bulky and does not fit well under some tanks, Baz is correct on the Taylor, just mill or file 1mm off the clamp ends so the clamp can grip the 25mm tube.
 
kommando said:
The Norvil top iso is bulky and does not fit well under some tanks, Baz is correct on the Taylor, just mill or file 1mm off the clamp ends so the clamp can grip the 25mm tube.
Click to expand...
Doing some research I found that the head steady has been upgraded to the improved MK III version. I'm wondering if I could tweak that unit, perhaps shim the rubbers and adjust in more spring tension to stiffen it. I'm not planning on racing but want stable handling for somewhat hard cornering.
 
I'd be surprised if you could 'improve' the Mk3 head steady without replacing it.... It is what it is, tuneable via spring tension to damp out more frequencies....
(Just realised this may open a whole new diatribe on how the spring works!!!)
 
I have standard mk3 isolastics and head steady. Cornering is confident and fine, even on TT100s. I wouldn't track-day it, but it's absolutely fine for a spirited road ride. The brakes, on the other hand...
 
Mart UK said:
I have standard mk3 isolastics and head steady. Cornering is confident and fine, even on TT100s. I wouldn't track-day it, but it's absolutely fine for a spirited road ride. The brakes, on the other hand...
Click to expand...
I'm ordering a 13mm MC , rebuilding the caliper, upgrading pads, SS line etc. I want to keep the original appearance as much as possible. I'll just have to learn the limitations and ride within them.
 
A tuned MK3 is as good as it gets using factory parts, the Taylor improvement would be less noticeable than against pre MK3 headsteady's. My best handling upgrade was fitting Kegler clamps on the cradle swingarm support tube, kept the same bushes and spindle as they were unworn. If someone has put the MK3 cradle in the Kegler clamps are not needed and in fact there is no room for them.

www.accessnorton.com

Heinz Kegler Clamps

does anyone know where I can by a set of these?
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
kommando said:
A tuned MK3 is as good as it gets using factory parts, the Taylor improvement would be less noticeable than against pre MK3 headsteady's. My best handling upgrade was fitting Kegler clamps on the cradle swingarm support tube, kept the same bushes and spindle as they were unworn. If someone has put the MK3 cradle in the Kegler clamps are not needed and in fact there is no room for them.

www.accessnorton.com

Heinz Kegler Clamps

does anyone know where I can by a set of these?
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
Click to expand...
As I removed the oil filter to gain a bit more clearance to rotate the gearbox, I was delighted to find that the swing arm pivot had already been upgraded with the kegler clamps.
 
OEM rubber biscuit does fine for me, never, ever feel at all unsettled, footpegs & header pipes touched down regularly. Not sure what all the fuss is about.

JMWO
 
concours said:
OEM rubber biscuit does fine for me, never, ever feel at all unsettled, footpegs & header pipes touched down regularly. Not sure what all the fuss is about.

JMWO
Click to expand...
Well several people recommended the upgrade. After research I don't think I want to go with something that might increase vibration with little benefit for my riding style. I want my bike to be a "mountain tourer" perhaps doing 300 miles in a day. Spirited performance is what I seek, but not at the expense of comfort and reliability.
 
Some people's behinds are more finely tuned and sensitive to vibrations and nuances; others, not so much.
 
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Dan1950 said:
As I removed the oil filter to gain a bit more clearance to rotate the gearbox, I was delighted to find that the swing arm pivot had already been upgraded with the kegler clamps.
Click to expand...
Your bike seems to have some very good upgrades
I'm surprised that the layshaft bearing has been overlooked?
It's the first thing you'd upgrade really as it can chuck you up the road and it's been known about for 40 odd years
Still surprises me when bikes still have the Portuguese bearing!
When are you going to strip the gearbox?
 
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baz said:
Your bike seems to have some very good upgrades
I'm surprised that the layshaft bearing has been overlooked?
It's the first thing you'd upgrade really as it can chuck you up the road and it's been known about for 40 odd years
Still surprises me when bikes still have the Portuguese bearing!
When are you going to strip the gearbox?
Click to expand...
Yes, the deeper I dig into the bike, the more pleased I am, despite the layshaft bearing and brakes drum issues.

I have to make the lock ring tool and get my work bench secured to the wall, then mount my big Wilton vice and bench grinder. I have parts coming in on Friday for some minor upgrades. Those will keep me making progress. My son is coming by on Monday after work. I want him well versed in the more technical work so he will be able to maintain Trixie after it passes into his hands.

He did very well getting the mixer out, but wanted to get primitive and dive into the internals without researching the procedures.
 
grandpaul said:
Some people's behinds are more finely tuned and sensitive to vibrations and nuances; others, not so much.
Click to expand...
Part of my concern with vibration is keeping parts not directly attached to the drive train from falling of. My '67 BSA was horrible in that respect.
 
the new AN head steady has been redesigned , and is slimmer then the original and easily fits under a standard roadster tank. And is a lovely piece of kit, that works.
 
Dan1950 said:
Part of my concern with vibration is keeping parts not directly attached to the drive train from falling of.
Click to expand...
Just keep the revs over 2500, once the ISO's kick in it's 'What Vibration ? '. Unlike other Brit twins the vibration amplitude is greatest at tickover when the whole bike is jumping around, not at 6000 rpm when its like a jack hammer.
 
kommando said:
Just keep the revs over 2500, once the ISO's kick in it's 'What Vibration ? '. Unlike other Brit twins the vibration amplitude is greatest at tickover when the whole bike is jumping around, not at 6000 rpm when its like a jack hammer.
Click to expand...
Hence the desire to keep the ISOs working as intended with OEM components.
 
kommando said:
Just keep the revs over 2500, once the ISO's kick in it's 'What Vibration ? '. Unlike other Brit twins the vibration amplitude is greatest at tickover when the whole bike is jumping around, not at 6000 rpm when its like a jack hammer.
Click to expand...
And boy does it jump around at < 2500 RPM. The first time I felt when slowing down to make a turn I was a bit startled. LOL.
 
Dan1950 said:
I'm ordering a 13mm MC , rebuilding the caliper, upgrading pads, SS line etc. I want to keep the original appearance as much as possible. I'll just have to learn the limitations and ride within them.
Click to expand...
That's what mine has, an AP racing caliper, braided lines and an RGM vented disc etc. Still definitely not a modern front braking experience. The rear is stock and that's OK. I use both if I need to slow down, I just plan ahead. But, I didn't buy the bike for a modern riding experience. All these things can be upgraded, but then in the end, do you really have a classic Commando, or some aftermarket pastiche?
 
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