Norton Dominator 99 problems

texasSlick said:

The Atlas directs the oil mist to the chain guard in an attempt to oil the chain ..... an utterly worthless endeavor, IMO. The chain speed is too fast to capture the oil, and the oil is slung forward and deposited on the drive side crank case. I suspect the chain actually creates a wind under the guard that captures the breather gasses even before the gasses contact the chain. I fitted a guard to the inside of the inner primary cover to capture the slung oil and allow it to drip to ground. Oil also deposits on the rear wheel.

My solution to oil mist was to fabricate a scrubber cartridge that is inserted into the tower of the oil tank. Refer to atlas-dommie-oil-mist-scrubber-t19002.html?hilit=Atlas/Dommie%20oil%20scrubber#p240772

Slick

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robs ss said:

What you appear to have is standard oil lines for pre-commandos.
I suspect that you may be confusing the low pressure feed to the rockers with the breather
Normally the return line from the oil junction (lower RH rear crankcase) to the oil tank has a tee to the rocker feed (there are exceptions to this where the rocker feed is from the lower (HP) feed from the timing cover (e.g.: some 650SS)
The breather from the LH rear of the crankcase (just below barrel) is also normal (Except Atlas which breathes out through LH end of cam tunnel). This hose is normally connected to the "froth" tower on the oil tank
From your photos I can't see anything that is not as Norton originally intended it to be
Cheers
Rob

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KuusistoNorton said:

Hello,

Can i just ask my stupid questions to this same thread, since i would not like to make always new one with differend subjects.(edited this thread subject).

I went for a ride today, it worked fairly well, but somehow it feels like losing power at higher revs, its like pulling good until certain point and then it doesnt feel powerful only revs get higher.(clutch is not slipping)

I thought that it might be my mufflers? I've heard that restricting mufflers could restrict power at higher revs? They are original pear drop silencers but they are emptied and replaced with short tube thats blocked completely other end and has small holes to the side of the tube, i would think that would restrict pretty much exhaust gas flows, atleast at higher rpm. Main jets too small can also cause poor power above 4000 rpm. Norton Manual specifies [HASHTAG]#270[/HASHTAG] main jet for 650.

And the breather did work pretty well, it was not messing anything.

How common method is to run the bike without battery? My bike doesnt have battery, i am not sure if it has alternator or dynamo(if this has been used on Nortons?) Only two wires come out of the alternator/dynamo. I noticed that my primary oil had leaked and it was running low on lubrication, so the cover was little bit hotter than normal i think.. You can run without battery if you have a magneto. However, if you have an electronic voltage regulator fitted, it is better to have a small battery ... I have a 2.9 amp-hour battery and Podtronics regulator on my Atlas.

I noticed this since i started to marvel the dim headlight bulb at idle and revs, so did my charger(alternator/dynamo) brake due overheating or could this just been temporary since it was hotter than normal, also primary chain was pretty hot.(lack of lubrication) I have ammeter attached to the bike and it has been reading 4amps at idle and normally riding at highway speeds +8amps. When it was hot i was reving the bike at neutral and ammeter did not go to 8amps anymore but was still 4amps at idle, i will start it tomorrow when its cold and check if lights are still dim. By the way its 12volt system. 4 amps with lights on is normal.

This is the only pic i have from primary. It seems to be Lucas system but hard to see the stampings, i will check it when i open primary cover.

I will need to try to seal the primary cover oil tight, once i have removed cover i will check everything is ok inside. I'll try to get it oil tight with rtv silicon Bond the large rubber to the inner primary cover flange. Next, apply a generous bead of silicone to the 3/8" (9mm) edge of rubber seal, and to the mating shoulder of the outer primary cover. The object is to have the two beads merge after fitting the cover. Allow 24 hours cure time before adding oil. I use Ford type F auto transmission fluid rather than oil .... ATF has better friction coefficient than oil, and does not deteriorate the rubber shock cushions as oil does.

I've seen that there is belt conversions available also to Dominators, any pros and cons? I've read that it might be little difficult to get all the parts fit
But with belt drive you could run it dry. I will let others give their opinions on this issue.

If i would attach belt drive to my bike, should i have rear hub replaced to commando since it has shock rubbers mounted rear hub and dominator has them inside the clutch. Or is it possible/comfortable to ride the bike without shock rubbers? Or will the belt function kind of shock absorder? I operated my Atlas for about 15K miles with a Commando clutch having no shock rubbers. I had no problems, but OTH, I was not racing about as I formally done when I was younger. I became concerned (rightly or wrongly) that even gentle riding might cause gearbox problems, and I returned to the pre-Commando clutch with shock rubbers. The belt gives some cushion to the drive line, but not as much as some may think

Sorry for all these questions again, and thank you in advance.

-Kuusisto

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KuusistoNorton said:

My bike doesnt have battery, i am not sure if it has alternator or dynamo

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KuusistoNorton said:

Thank you for answering!

Slick, i have single carb fitted to my bike and its an Amal 930 R300. I could remember it was fitted with #320 main and #90 jet needle?
Here http://amalcarb.co.uk/carburettor-for-a ... 67-68.html they state a 220er mainjet for a Domi-99.

(the one that has two small holes in the hex) + velocity stack, dont know which slot needle is atm. Its running good tought, doesnt have any typical symptoms of rich running, plugs seem to be fine imo, atleast not running lean.


Heres pic, green one i consider as main jet and it was #320 and red one i consider as pilot jet/needle jet and was #90.
Both are Jetholders. Also have a look here: http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20Tuning.html
This is a velocity stack http://amalcarb.co.uk/media/catalog/pro ... iginal.jpg

I can start the bike usually with 1-2kicks, no more than 3ever, one thing is interesting that you dont have to choke it when you're starting it, never need to use choke, could it perhaps be running little too rich then?

I am using same 20w50 mineral engine oil in primary chain case that i am using in my engine. First time i tried ATF and it worked fine first day and and my second ride of the week my clutch started slipping so i changed oil and cleaned clutch and it was not slipping anymore.

I will need to take mufflers off and see if i could come up with better solution than the current one is. I could recon that previous owner emptied mufflers (kind of straight pipe) and maybe it was too loud and then he made the mods. I would say its 1" 3/4 to 2" pipe which is about 9" long and other end is completely blocked and has small holes at side. So the exhaust gasses hit the blocked "wall" and are forced to go through these small holes, i think its very restrictive.

It sounds nice at idle, but also loses its tone at higher revs. If i would have time tomorrow i would change mufflers from my Moto Guzzi and try them out, they are free flow type of mufflers.
https://www.feked.com/norton-exhaust-silencer-dominator-650ss-atlas-650-750cc-1962-on.html. Those looks great but the sound? Idont know

-Kuusisto

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KuusistoNorton said:

How common method is to run the bike without battery? My bike doesnt have battery, i am not sure if it has alternator or dynamo(if this has been used on Nortons?) Only two wires come out of the alternator/dynamo.

-Kuusisto

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