Nifty rear end upgrade

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grandpaul

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Finally getting in the last of Kenny Dreer's parts that we made a deal on way back in January.

This is the last of the box-section swingarms, and a modified cradle that takes big bearings for the swingarm spindle. It also has accommodations for a Spyke electric starter (need to convert the primary to belt drive with a ring gear on the clutch basket).

I'm thinking i'm going to swap out my '75 interstates rear end "just for grins" and retain it's OEM starter setup...

Nifty rear end upgrade
 
Did Kenny indicate just how big of a rear tire you can put in there?

Maybe you shouldn't say, might give Hobot a chubby. :mrgreen:
 
swooshdave said:
Did Kenny indicate just how big of a rear tire you can put in there?

Maybe you shouldn't say, might give Hobot a chubby. :mrgreen:

Widen it to accept a 240 rear. Show them TV chopper show boys how its done to a Norton.



Forgot to add this: :mrgreen: :P :D
 
The chain alignment is still your limiting factor.

110/90, yes

120/90, maybe (depends on brand and design)

anything wider, no.
 
grandpaul said:
The chain alignment is still your limiting factor.

110/90, yes

120/90, maybe (depends on brand and design)

anything wider, no.

Longer crankshaft stub (drive side) to move the front pulley out and space the gearbox appropriately. Would that work (I mean aside from a few hundred practical issues...)?
 
Is the cradle still strong enough with that much cut away ? All the driving loads will be trying to pull it out of line.
 
79x100 said:
Is the cradle still strong enough with that much cut away ? All the driving loads will be trying to pull it out of line.

I think the starter bolts in there and should add some rigidity back.
 
Ah Man Paul, Kenny Dreer sure made trick stuff.
Peel's got Dreer valve kit and past 30 mm belt primary.
So Yes I felt a throb in the joint on first sight.

Boxed swing arm like Dreer's or RGM's can easy fit 120 width and likely
a 130.

But chain may foul, so Ken Canaga milled gearbox mounts
shimmed crank pulley to move chain out 1/4". Said he
was faster on 130. Which is a ponder point to me who
now abhors 150 and above tires for turning, yet found
120 has more hook up on THE Gravel, so where is best
comprise. I suspect its 130-140 in 18" narrow rim.

You might consider tying the rear and maybe the top cradle
side together. Especially if ever mounting a rear Helm's link.

hobot - put Blue RTV in WM3 rim spokes last PM, will put on
Avon AM23 x130 soon and see if holds air.
 
Not likely. There is only one other one out there, on Dave Edward's bike.

As close as I've got is my Blue bike (on the right); this shot is the only rear-end shot i have at the moment...

Nifty rear end upgrade
 
I'll add what I can to this discussion. Back in the mid '80s I had modified my PR to be competitive in the AMA's BOTT classes. After breaking two axles and one stock swingarm, I decided to make my own swingarm. The PR has since been restored and is in someone else's private museum, but the swingarm is now in my Norton streamliner. In building the liner, we added the monoshock structure to the swingarm, but you can still see the original twin shock mounts I used when it was on the PR.





It is constructed of 4130 chrome-moly steel, and has opposed pairs of tapered roller bearings on each side. It has a larger rear axle to fit the 18" mag wheels I was using, and is wide enough to clear the 18" slicks of the day. In order to fit the wider tires, I moved the gearbox over to the left by removing the stock top spacer and macining the bottom case lug to match, and using spacers on the right side. It gave me something like .200" or .250" more chain clearance. I don't recall the exact amount now. I had also switched from the 530 to a 520 chain, for a little more clearance. Moving the gearbox was only possible because I was using a belt drive. There's no room to move the countershaft sprocket over with a stock chaincase. I didn't have to space the engine pulley out any. I was using a Bob Newby 40 mm wide drive, and all I had to do was remove the spacer behind the clutch basket to bring it back in line with the engine pulley. I think I machined a small counterbore in the back of the clutch center to capture the stock mainshaft circlip, in place of the stock spacer. I also had to space the rear shock mounts a little further apart, to keep the chain from rubbing against the rear shocks. I'm currently using it on the liner with a 17" Dunlop slick in 160/55 size, and there is still room to go a bit larger. I once fitted it with the same slick in a 155 width on the PR back in the early '90s as an experiment. It fit ok, but didn't give enough ground clearance for racing. I think a 165 would fit, and maybe even a 170.

If I recall correctly, when I was still using the stock swingarm, some of the 18" 120 section tires would just barely fit. The Dunlop 120 of the day was a little wider than the otheres, and I think we had to shave the left side slightly to clear the chain.

For the curious, the gearbox is a heavy duty Quaife 5-speed with a hydraulic clutch.

Ken
 

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I've been running 130/90 18-inch tires from several manufacturers for the last twenty years or so--with the stock swingarm installed and the chainguard removed there's about 3/8- to 1/2-inch clearance between the tire, chain and swingarm all round--about twice the clearance as between the fender stays and the TT100 up front.


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Three Commandos
 
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