NEWSFLASH - 961 OIL IN AIRBOX FIX

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I suppose , but the check valve is to stop the water from going back down into the pump and back into the well. If the check valve is not closing then all the water will drain down and have to be pumped full again. As in the case with the Norton , if the valve does not close fully because of debris then wet sumps again. So yes !
 

contours

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... the check valve is to stop the water from going back down into the pump and back into the well. If the check valve is not closing then all the water will drain down and have to be pumped full again.
Yes and that's why I installed a new one. But I was thinking maybe it is stuck in the closed position, making it harder to pump the water into the storage tank. Possibility?
 

lcrken

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FWIW, my 2015 Sport dumped a fair amount of oil into the airbox at first, but now that it's at almost 1,000 miles, that appears to have stopped. The last few rides produced no oil in the airbox. Maybe it's just more broken in now, but also probably too much oil in the tank to start with. It seemed to stop somewhere between 800 and 900 miles. The oil level when I changed it at 600 miles was at the top mark, and is now about midway between the marks on the original (short) dip stick. I don't have the breather fix, just original hoses.

Ken
So, I have to backtrack a little here. It is still getting a little oil in the airbox, just not as much as before. I'll be curious to see if it stops once the oil level gets down some more. Fortunately, it's not a lot of oil, so probably just fine as long as I remember to drain it in a timely manner.

Ken
 

Sdonders

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Hi,

Although I don’t have any problems with any oil in the air box. I have oil in the engine. My oil tank is always empty. As soon as I switch off the motor, oil is draining down from the oil tank within several minutes. There is a fix in the rocker cover made by the previous owner shielding the breathing line from splashing oil. So I also ordered a kit to fix this. But also want to take a better look at the pump and I see if I can solve the virtual leak by grinding the pump house to minimise the tolerance.
Below a picture of all parts. And indeed it comes as a puzzle without any explanation.

Best regards,

Sjoerd

 
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Brit Twit posted the instructions he received and it seems they were complete. Look for the thread by Brit Twit and you will see the PDF he posted. Be sure to clean the inside of your oil pump out (disassemble it) after you press in the one way valve . This is to clean out the press shavings inside . The silver colored one way valve with the 3/8 spigots on each side is for your return line. This is mounted below the oil cooler with the arrow pointing towards the oil cooler/oil tank.
 
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  1. This is the pump with the check valve pressed in . Note which side is facing out towards the engine case.

    What the feed side valve looks like before pressing . Note chamfered end .

    Look closely, you will see the aluminum shavings built up on the perimeter of the hole when the valve was pressed in. The oil pump is partially disassembled to see this. Just remove the 4 bolts and separate it a bit is all that is needed.

    These shavings must be removed after pressing . OR the upgrade will fail . This is my oil pump you are looking at. This information and directions were given to me by Norton Motorcycles UK .

  2. TonyA, Jun 23, 2017 Edit Delete
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  4. BritTwit
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    Tony,
 
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Look in Crankcase Breather Kit Thread or maybe Brit Twit remembers where he posted the instructions.
 

Sdonders

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Hi,

Thanks I know. I would say that the instructions should be shared within the package, and not by BritTwit. Luckily BritTwit could get them and shared them. Else I wouldn’t even have known the existence of the breather kit at all.
It a good point you made for the scrapings from the inner check valve. Thanks

Sjoerd
 
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We send the breather kits out through the dealer network, who have access to technical service bulletins explaining how to do this job in quite thorough detail.

Without wishing to cause offence to anyone here, it is assumed that the job is carried out by our dealer network, as they are trained how to do it, I wasn't expecting customers to do it themselves, although I know for some of you it will be easier because of distances to dealers.

You may appreciate my apprehension about sharing the instructions online, because I would want to make sure that only confident and competent people perform this modification, but please get in contact if you need and I can email a copy over to you if you are struggling.
 

Sdonders

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Dear Rob,

I have to admit I was wrong and reconise your opinion about this. I'm sorry if I offended you or one of the dealers.
And, thank you for your offer to help me out if needed ,I appreciate that very much and will come back to this when needed.

Best regards,

Sjoerd Donders
 

Sdonders

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Hi,

The breaded modification is done. Thanks to you all for your support, this site help a lot that everyone shares his knowledgeNow let’s hope there is no oil anymore going down in the engine, or AirBox.
As expected, all oil was already in the engine and nothing in the oil tank anymore. The oil pump has indeed some virtual leak looking at the used/made tolerances in the oil pump.
The previous owner modified the rocker cover by placing a metal shielding plate in front of the banjo bold. Indeed this prevents the oil going down to the AirBox but also limits the breading capacity by blocking the venting tube. This is solved now also, and is not healthy for the engine I guess.

I modified the rocker cover by riviting aluminum plugs into it to close the M14 holes. The material color is a bit different due to to fact I didn’t have casted material.



 
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Hi,

The breaded modification is done. Thanks to you all for your support, this site help a lot that everyone shares his knowledgeNow let’s hope there is no oil anymore going down in the engine, or AirBox.
As expected, all oil was already in the engine and nothing in the oil tank anymore. The oil pump has indeed some virtual leak looking at the used/made tolerances in the oil pump.
The previous owner modified the rocker cover by placing a metal shielding plate in front of the banjo bold. Indeed this prevents the oil going down to the AirBox but also limits the breading capacity by blocking the venting tube. This is solved now also, and is not healthy for the engine I guess.

I modified the rocker cover by riviting aluminum plugs into it to close the M14 holes. The material color is a bit different due to to fact I didn’t have casted material.




By the way; factory did that. Not the previous owner. They are all like this.
 

contours

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Thankfully, I don't have a need for the correction. Maybe it's because I don't rev the engine hard enough. But if I did need a fix I would definitely prefer the Coote solution over anything else. If I can afford to hang on to my 961 long enough I may be taking a trip up to Ontario. ;)
 

contours

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I hate to revive a thread everyone seems to have moved on from, but ...

TonyA said: The debris from the oil tank can jam the check valve.

Then I said: This is off-topic, but do you think this could be the reason my well pump takes 45 minutes or more to refill my water tank? I had to install a check valve on the inlet pipe when the built-in valve on the pump failed. It’s been in line for just 2 years, but maybe the spring is stuck. :confused:

This is still off-topic, but I am very pleased to announce that my theory was 100% correct about this! Toward the end of February our well stopped bringing in water. At the time we had a deep freeze so I assumed the inlet pipe had frozen. As usual I checked the pump was and it was indeed running. But several days later with outdoor temperatures into the 50s and me zapping the pipe with a heat gun periodically did not bring back the water back. We had a new well drilled last November, but ran out of warm weather before getting a connection to the house. So for almost 4 weeks we had no running water. We lived in 14 gallons of spring water each day. Finally my patience was exhausted. I tore apart all the CPVC piping including the check valve. I replaced it with a straight through pipe. Miracle of miracles - I got water when I turned the pump back on!

Lesson learned? Even relatively new check valves DO fail. And had I believed it from the beginning when the pump was taking so long to bring in water I could have avoided all that misery. :rolleyes:
 
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