- Jan 16, 2015
Your low line is about equal to the high line on the new stick. order a new stick cap and oring. separate parts . Hopefully helps .
Affirmative.So I have the OLD dipstick and it is currently filled to the midway between the two lines. I should keep it at the lower line?
Down load the factory manuals on here & make up a workshop manual, laminate the pages, do the same with Richard 7 Manual s , pm him for details & u are almost soughted , find a reputable go to guy in your area , order any parts in first I guess b4 u start opening things up,no reason your bike should not be a daily commuter , skim some out out for now b4 u go work tomorrow.1. Tightened the spark plugs
2. Tightened the header bolts...only one on each side was slightly loose
3. I put my fingers under the starter and there is oil there.
4. How difficult is it to pull the starter and plac an o-ring if it’s not present?
5. I don’t have a dealer near me, but I did purchase an extended 4year unlimited miles warranty that specifically covers everything from major issues to minor leaks. And per this warranty I can get the work done by any mechanic and it is covered with zero deductible. I bought this bike to commute to work and put a ton of miles on it so I wanted to play it safe.
Thanks.Down load the factory manuals on here & make up a workshop manual, laminate the pages, do the same with Richard 7 Manual s , pm him for details & u are almost soughted , find a reputable go to guy in your area , order any parts in first I guess b4 u start opening things up,no reason your bike should not be a daily commuter , skim some out out for now b4 u go work tomorrow.
I wouldn’t bother draining from the bottom of engine via the drain plug,just take small amount from dipstick area, make a tiny scoop toning up, keep checking level till u got it lower, & when checking level the bike should be upright & not leaning over on side stand, how long is your commute Assad ?Thanks.
Do you mean to say I can just take a little oil out for now to lower the level with hopes that this will decrease the amount of leaking in any of the areas discussed and it would be safe to keep riding the bike? As long there is low risk of oil spilling out from under the starter and causing a dangerous situation I would be fine with that. Should I stuff a shop rag under the starter for now to soak up any ongoing leaking oil so it just stays absorbed and not spraying back towards the wheel and brakes, etc?
Before removing oil I will check the level properly as described by Raphi.
Thanks for the help. This is a great forum!
Ha ha ha! I have recently done something similar for my '75 Mk3 which has sprung an annoying leak from the vent at the top of the oil tank. Except I used an empty tall, narrow bottle that originally contained carburetor cleaner. Looks more official at least.... and I think I may have to swap the can for a JD or Gordons or Old Grouse etc on a daily basis. There is plenty of clearance between the Swing Arm/Hugger but not enough to fit a can of Newky Brown !!
This is off-topic, but do you think this could be the reason my well pump takes 45 minutes or more to refill my water tank? I had to install a check valve on the inlet pipe when the built-in valve on the pump failed. It’s been in line for just 2 years, but maybe the spring is stuck.The debris from the oil tank can jam the check valve.