Newcomer looking for buying advice

Hello!
My names Frank, and I am looking to possibly get my first Norton. Well for the back story, the other day I went on a craigslist adventure for a 300 dollar H1 for a friend. The guy with the bike mentioned he was "thinning his herd" and next up was a norton, and if I wanted to see it. So I bit, went back to a shed it was in, and lo and behold, there was a commando stuffed in there. It wasn't really lit, and the bike was kind of stuffed in there, but at a glance it looked like a dusty, but rust free bike that had clearly been painted. All I could tell was it had a single carb, a disk brake, and was missing the front fender and side covers. Well the idea hasn't left my head and I called the guy today about it. It is a 1971 750, and not the combat model. The previous owner did convert it to a single mikuni carb, but the guy has a box with both amals, two seats, the missing fender and sidecovers, and I guess a bunch of stuff to go with it. Apparently he bought it running, but not well from a guy who had converted the carbs but could not figure out the points. I asked if all the electronics worked, and he said they did when he bought it. Now the guy wants two grand for it. This seems fair, but I would assume you guys know a lot more about these things than I do (never owned a brit bike) and I am wondering what you think. It seems like it is an original bike thats been painted (not worried about painting it back) and has the single Mikuni conversion(from what I read the amals can be a headache anyway). I read the points are extra finicky, so I guess it is believable about the running condition. Do you know what else would be good to find out about this, and if it could be worth it? I am very mechanically able, just these bikes are new to me, and from what I understand they can take some special tools and experience to get going well. I am assuming it will require all of the basic maintenance items (fork seals, tires, brakes, cables, etc) and maybe the isolastic mounts, but what else should I check before making the purchase? Thanks a lot in advance.

When I look at Norton that has been sitting for a period of time, I always expect the worst. You have already mentioned that the side covers are missing (fiberglass on this model) so you know you would need to source these. You should confirm that the bike at least turns over with the kick starter, but even if it does, you may be faced with new rings, a re-bore and new pistons, or worse.
Check to see if the master cylinder works. If not it will at least need a rebuild or at worst a re-sleeved one. (A '71 should have a drum brake, so the front forks were either replaced or the bike is actually a '72 or later. Check the serial numbers.
If it has points and ran poorly it likely has a worn or rusted auto advance mechanism. A Boyer, Tri-Spark, or Pazon electronic ignition is the best solution.

Kick it over to see if the engine is free.

$2K for a project bike is a good deal...I would buy it.

When I look at Norton that has been sitting for a period of time, I always expect the worst. You have already mentioned that the side covers are missing (fiberglass on this model) so you know you would need to source these. You should confirm that the bike at least turns over with the kick starter, but even if it does, you may be faced with new rings, a re-bore and new pistons, or worse. A total engine rebuild will not be cheap. I usually expect I will spend at least $400 in parts on a non-runner. Sometimes you get lucky and spend a lot less, sometimes you are not so lucky and spend a lot more.
Check to see if the master cylinder works. If not it will at least need a rebuild or at worst a re-sleeved one. (A '71 should have a drum brake, so the front forks were either replaced or the bike is actually a '72 or later. Check the serial numbers. A '71 will begin with 14XXXX or 15XXXX and a '72 will begin with 20XXXX.
If it has points and ran poorly it likely has a worn or rusted auto advance mechanism. A Boyer, Tri-Spark, or Pazon electronic ignition is the best solution.
The '71 is a pretty nice model, but it has one annoying flaw. The side stand is held by a pin that usually fails with sometimes disastrous results. The best fix is to weld a mount to the frame (available from AN) that will take a '72-on side stand.
If the tank is original it is fiberglass. I would budget $450-500 for a steel tank (EMGO or nice original). Even with a properly sealed fiberglass tank, I won't leave gas in the tank.

dennisgb said:

Kick it over to see if the engine is free.

$2K for a project bike is a good deal...I would buy it.

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I would love that bike.

J

Thank you for the help!
The side covers are included, they just are not currently on the bike.
I figured an electronic ignition would be worth the investment (once the bike runs) no matter what just to remove one more maintenance item.
I will look into the front brake. Are these difficult to rebuild? I heard that the originals need re-sleeving due to being too large for the caliper.
I was wondering if the tank would be fiberglass. I was thinking that sealing it would probably be enough?
Also assuming the stolastic mounts are junk, is it worth doing the upgrade to retrofit mkIII ones?

I bought my 71 in rough condition for $1800.00
It didnt run but was complete. I got it running in a few days but it was rough. After a more in depth inspection, the engine was bad. Mains had let go. I went all in and had the engine and trans redone and now it is back on the road. Good decision? Probably not, but I have no regrets. Its a great bike and now I am making it safe and refining it.
I have spent too much cash on it but Im glad I did. More to come this winter. Hope your bike has a steel tank, mine doesnt. I cant wait to ride it in the spring.
Good luck and make sure you are ready to dig in. I have found parts are readily available. How bout some pics?

MikeM said:

I have spent too much cash on it but Im glad I did.

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Isn't that what Norton ownership is all about?

Poor new guy...he doesn't know what he's in for

Sealing the FG tank is a temporary fix. Buy a new steel one for $450 and be done with it. Or use non ethanol gas in it if the tank is in good shape. You will spend more money on the bike than you think. It may be made to run the way it is, but you'll never know what's really inside until the whole thing comes apart. It may look good on the outside but sitting and not used is not good. It's probably worth $2K, but that's just the start. Expect to spend at least $3K or more to get it into any respectable shape. A running one in fair shape should bring $5-7K or more depending on the shape, so consider that. But if you really want a project, that's fine too, but the learning curve can be steep, but the satisfaction may be worth it. I assume it's in the US? Good luck.

Hi, welcome. No signs of outdoor storage? Engine turns freely? Legal where you are? (Title, etc.) Got the cash for possible parts? ($1000-5000) and the DESIRE to own/ride this bike?

Hell, the PARTS are worth more than a grand. You haven't BOUGHT IT yet? :lol:

The main things to consider are the condition of the frame and the cases, both engine and tranny. Beyond those two, remember, this is a +40 year old motorcycle that had some issues when new. Some of the things you mentioned, such as master cylinder and ignition, are items that will need replacement, regardless of condition. The stock master cylinder was grossly oversized and points were and are a PIA. More than likely, every expendable; tires, battery, cables, seals, isolastics, anything rubber, brake pads and linings, clutch plates will need to be replaced. After those items are attended to, appearance items; chrome, paint, etc., will probably be begging for attention. If you do buy this bike, even if the engine and tranny are in good shape, you will probably end up spending at least another minimum of $5,000. The engine and transmission should be completely torn down and inspected. If you are a competent wrench you can save some money there. As for the gas tank, if it's fiberglass, I would definitely plan on replacing it with a metal one. Sealing tanks seems to be a crap shoot, at best. When that sealant lets go, the engine ingests the goop and usually ruins anything in the intake tract, including valve guides.

I'd say that it would take somewhere around ten grand to have an upgraded, well prepped, cosmetically appealing Commando if you do most of the work yourself, excluding machine work and paint. The other option is to ring up Matt Ranbow at Colorado Norton Works and send him your bike and I guess $30,000.


Believe it or not, a fully restored and upgraded and running Commando that can be bought for $7,000-$8,000 is a lot cheaper than the $2,000 shed find you're looking at.

Thank you for the advice.
I have rebuilt Jap bikes before, but those are relatively simple, and parts are generally cheap and plentiful.
I can definitely see how this could turn into a $10,000 motorcycle real quick.
The guy sent me some pictures last night (terrible quality), but here they are.
Apparently I was semi-drunk or stupid when I looked at this because it has a drum brake. Oops.










Can anyone make anything out worth noting from these?
Thanks

It's a wallet vacuum, for sure.

Just touching on your Jap bike parts comparison, Norton parts are VERY plentiful, and the cost is reasonable. MUCH better than my 41yo Jap bike.

www.oldbritts.com

Buy the bike, it's a no brainer, even if you change your mind you won't loose, think of the fun you'll have!

J

You can never have enough commandos.

Nothing major missing. Lots of elbow grease involved. You might get off cheap if the engine and trans are in decent shape, but only opening them will tell. I'd still say a min of $3K for all the rubber, gaskets and most likely cables plus what ever mechanical work it needs. Probably needs the swing arm fix, cheap. Rebuild forks, cheap. Harness and electrics, time consuming. It depends on whether you want a project or a bike to ride, the price will be about the same, but the satisfaction may not. I got mine in respectable shape looking much worse than that for about $8K and I had the bike to start. Complete rebuild however. I did everything except the head work. You've got to want to do it because it will be plenty exasperating, but they can be made right and reliable. And the wow factor for a well sorted Norton is to be believed.

Nothing major missing

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2 mufflers, clamps and brackets. Those things alone are more than $500. Throw in another $800 for a metal tank and painting and you are up to $1300.

DogT said:

...the wow factor for a well sorted Norton is to be believed.

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Yep, that's a big part of it for me. I've yet to come across any Sake-sucker that can do that.

I bought mine back for $4500 after it had sat in a storage shed for close to a quarter century, then sunk over $1500 into it for "minor" items and many hours to bring it up to daily-driver status. she-back-t16865.html?hilit=thanks%20pete The points system can be made to run well if you're willing to sit in front of them for a couple of hours, but, like was pointed out in prior entries, the AAU is really the weak link in the system.

It kinda depends on the local storage environment and the state it was in when parked as to what the internals might look like. Being inherently cheap, I'd be for doing the bare essentials to get it to fire up first. If that's successful, dig into the brakes before a test spin. Actually, make that "brake" as in "front", since the rear brake's primary roll is to give us some place to hook the drive chain to, and not to actually stop the bike.
Find a bore scope, take a look down the spark plug holes for signs of rust on the cylinder walls, and for any contact between pistons and valves.

As pointed out by others, you need to want this to happen if you decide to persue it, as it's definitely a labor of love. Worth it!

Nathan

auldblue said:

Buy the bike, it's a no brainer, even if you change your mind you won't loose, think of the fun you'll have!

J

You can never have enough commandos.

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+1

If you don't want it PM me and I will buy it

2K?, wow some people pay more for boxes full of bits and the assurance that it's mostly all there
If the purchase price is a concern then depending on how you want the bike to look you could be in for a bit of a shock as it is also a hole into which you can safely throw lots of money (including purchase I've spent about 14K so far and still have to paint!)
As pointed out you can buy a good one for less than it will cost you to bring a project up to the same condition but to some that's not what it's about

Here in Australia container load after container load of Norton's have made their way from the sheds and garages of the USA while our dollar was high, flooding the market and it could be argued bringing the price down compared to what it would otherwise be
It may have the opposite effect in America as they become fewer but I suspect the import merchants have not put too big a dent in the Norton population of the US
If you do buy it take your time and do it properly
Once on the road it's worth it

Jed