New guy, seeking advice and advil

Hello and thanks for the add to this esteemed group.

So after building a modest but mint collection of vintage/classic/modern bikes, I am tempted to stray into Commando-land. My hope at some point is to add a Norton to round out the "British Corner" in my garage. My nice A65 and Bonnie would like the company. Not in a rush.

I would describe my passion for bikes as a 10, and my mechanical skills as a 6. Not likely to pull and rebuild a motor, nor to paint a bike myself, but I will try to break just about anything else.

Open to the wisdom of the group about the best/worst years, models and sources to buy from.

Thanks and ride well.

I’m partial to 750 Commandos, but that’s just me. If you are new to Norton’s and want to ride it the 850 is probably the better choice. The exception would be the 850 JPN which I’ve owned and sold as it is too painful to ride any distance. If it’s going to sit in the Brit corner with the A65 and Triumph then for looks the best would be any of the cafe racers...JPN, production racer or full faired 810 Dunstall Norton.

Oh sorry..source. Wherever you find them, but the caveat is these can be well used and abused. If you do find one that you “fancy” it’s best to get help from an experienced owner that knows the typical failures. Check back in this forum when you find something. You’re upstate NY so will let those near you offer....I’m in Stockton, Ca.

This is the JPN that hurt me to ride.

Every one of the below bike models have good and bad points. Start with the basics THEN go to the specifics...

All the commandos can be described using these 3 criteria. In 8 years there are about 30 models (see below)

1.Catagorizing commando rolling chassis into the general categories or series.
more detail here: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/versions-of-commando.27393/

2. NHT engine/power train identification of types used in (production) Commando = 5 NHT = Norton Heavy Twin

3. Body styles used and their relationship to the rolling chassis series and engine/power train series.
Model name being the same does not make them the exact same.

In 8 years there are about 30 models made up of various combinations of the above 3 criteria:
Original Commando 4/68-3/69
750 R 3/69-9/69
750S 3/69-6/70
Fastback 3/69-8/70
Fastback II 9/70-12/70
Fastback III 1/71-12/71
Fastback IV 1/72-3/73
Fastback LR (Long Range) 4/71-12/71
Fastback LR MkIV 1/72-2/73
Roadster 3/70-12/70
Roadster II 1/71-12/71
(no MkIII Roadster, apparently!)
Roadster IV 1/72-2/73
Roadster V 3/73-10/73
SS (Street Scrambler) 3/71-10/71
PR (Production Racer) 4/71-10/73
Hi-Rider 5/71-12/71
Hi-Rider IV 1/72-2/73
Hi-Rider V 3/73-10/73
Interstate 1/72-2/73
Interstate V 3/73-10/73
850cc
Roadster 1 3/73-12/73
Roadster 1A 9/73-2/74
Roadster 2/2A 1/74-2/75
Roadster 3 2/75-9/77
Interstate 1 3/73-12/73
Interstate 1A 9/73-2/74
Interstate 2/2A 1/74-2/75
Interstate 3 2/75-9/77
Hi-Rider 1 3/73-12/73
Hi-Rider 2 1/74-2/75
Hi-Rider 3 3/75-?
John Player Replica 11/73-2/75

just my 2 cents

Maybe start with what you would do with this Commando.

runner trailer Queen mainly for bragging rights...bike shows
Chopper "style" like Easy Rider LA to ole Miss
actual long distance touring coast to coast? all weather
on or off road/forest dirt roads or fields
short hops around town grocery store or parts store runs
Club rides & rallies
wanna be ricky racer
real track racer
add here:
Just want something to tinker with
EDIT: I just collect them to have...

That's not quite fair DD because he's going to end up tinkering with any of the lot. I tinker 30% & ride 70% if the gods are pleased with my efforts... If not.... well the ratio sometimes is reversed. When you see it you'll know the one. Mount & ride immediately to seal the bond to ensure it's true.

I like dynodave's list to work off of but will add that it also depends on your budget and whether you want custom or stock. If you have a big budget and like flashy stuff, you could contact Colorado Norton Works or NYC Norton. There are others here who run businesses which include custom builds, RoadScholar comes to mind as one.

https://coloradonortonworks.com/

https://nycnorton.com/

https://www.rockypointcycle.com/Motorcycle_Restoration.html

If you want a mint original bike, look long and hard. Who knows where it will turn up. There are often bikes for sale here in the classified ads, many of which are worthy of attention as they are being sold by another enthusiast. People who are long term members here are a good bet for getting some truth about what you are buying. As an example I have a 1973 Combat "bitsa" 750 with an interstate tank that I am tempted to sell to free up space. But first you gotta decide what you want! Or maybe you would like two?

Green flags = "Norton" on the gas tank

Red flags = Any parts secured with baling wire, rebar, or scotch tape

Advil you can get at any drug store...Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Get a Commando with a steel tank, late '72 and up, I believe. Buying low price and going through top to bottom is the best way to insure consistent reliability. Buying at the high end cuts both ways, you can get riding, possibly, straight away or you can get a pig complete with lipstick. P.T. Barnum's famous quote: "A sucker is born every minute, an two to take him", don't be the former, this forum has tons of knowledge.

Buy for the love of the marque, don't try to kid yourself into thinking your buying an investment, better to have that be a pleasant surprise.

Any Commando you purchase will have the same effect on your wallet as a mistress, but, at my age, the joy is the same...

Best.

I was where you are now three years ago. I couldn’t be happier and the Norton adds a whole new dimension of enjoyment in both working on and riding the bike. Don’t be afraid to dig into the engine. Once you get to the bottom you’ll realize how simple it really is. Parts are easy to get and this forum is amazing. Whatever bike you get it will be the best year and model out there. Ben

RoadScholar said:

Any Commando you purchase will have the same effect on your wallet as a mistress, but, at my age, the joy is the same...

Click to expand...

But the Commando won't require you to take those little blue pills...

acadian said:

Green flags = "Norton" on the gas tank

Red flags = Any parts secured with baling wire, rebar, or scotch tape

Click to expand...

Never mind the baling wire, duct tape, welded-on parts, U-bolts, hose clamps, and HD parts, it ended up just fine, CHEAP.



YES, it's the same engine, frame, and rear hub.

maylar said:

But the Commando won't require you to take those little blue pills...

Click to expand...

Good point, that could make the Commando a better financial proposition. And, now that I will be fitting the cNw e-start system to my build I'll only have to be concerned with one crank...

One thing that should be noted, regarding mechanical abilities. Any person who can read and follow instructions and is willing to take care in the process can build a Commando. The stuff that is beyond the garage tinkering can be sent to someone. For the most part, these bikes are easy to work on. There is however a learning curve about what kinds of things you can do to screw yourself up or to make the journey more pleasant. The forum is a good source but so is the workshop manual. At the present time we enjoy the benefits of a number of very good sources for parts, stock and custom and machine work. How long this trend will last is unkown.

grandpaul said:

Never mind the baling wire, duct tape, welded-on parts, U-bolts, hose clamps, and HD parts, it ended up just fine, CHEAP.

Click to expand...

Just a SHORT list:

Freaky forks with incorrect bearings in the steering neck
Front fender hose-clamped to SPRINGER fork tubes (NOT the stationary ones)
One round, one rectangular headlight
One headlight mount welded to forks, the other slap-dash mounted to welded one
Japanese front wheel with no accommodation for front brake torque stay
Bondo'ed in steering neck mods
Two pieces of heavy steel pipe welded together to hold coils, then entire affair duct-taped to frame
One rusty, one stainless header pipe
Cruiser pegs u-bolted to header & frame
All wires = RED
Heady steady shimmed in with steel washers (no rubber isolators)
Two halves of HD gas tank welded to frame
Battery held to octagon oil tank by two long hose clamp bands
Seat mount welded to frame, springs also welded
Unknown rear fender with Honda tail light
Sissy bar welded AND U-bolted to frame
Hand shifter made from long 3/8" socket extension
No right footpeg needed!
Rear struts (no shocks)
Rear brake actuator rod awarded "world's longest" record
Bike had over 20 pounds of red Oklahoma dirt caked on it, everyplace that leaked oil (everywhere)

My main point is: DON'T BE SCARED OF WHAT LOOKS LIKE TRASH! (Just don't pay too much for it).

I bought this chopper in a 3-bike deal (all choppers), so I paid less than the average basket case (near, but under a grand). I did all the work myself except paint, polishing, wheel lacing, and machine work, and was buying parts at reseller prices so paid about as low as you can go (also bought some used parts on this forum). I traded the forks for the powdercoating work, and sold the oil tank & handlebars on e-bay for over $100.

When the dust settled, I netted 2 grand for my efforts. Otherwise, I could have stayed with a nice Commando EASILY worth 5 grand, for about 1/2 that amount.

(Oh, and I got to keep the cool 'old school' leather saddlebags)

rvich said:

Any person who can read and follow instructions and is willing to take care in the process can build a Commando.

Click to expand...

I don't, quite, agree. I have seen a number of examples where well educated, well meaning individuals don't seem to comprehend the "dance steps" involved in bringing parts together as sub-assemblies/systems. The most common errors I see are under/over torquing, forgetting or selecting the wrong distance pieces, knows when to add more force and when not to, the list goes on.

I see British motorcycles as Masters level endeavors; we are fortunate that this forum has about a dozen members that are at the Post-Doc level. To be competent, I believe, that one must understand, or be aware, of the philosophy and the why an engineering team designed and built what we trust our lives with. Yes, I get extraneous concepts like limiting production costs, planned obsolescence, get the iron reliable enough to get through it's warranty period...General Motors (other companies certainly) have taken this to amazing levels. I particularly like the posts that aim to make a part/system better, my "hot button" is reliability. I'm very OK with the 50 or so HP that factory Nortons were designed with; my God, I saw an article about the BMW, Ducati and Aprilia in comparison making and average of 200 RWHP, and weighing, essentially, the same as a Commando...And costs less than I what I put into my Norton builds; if speed was my goal the pathway to same is not a secret. I do have a folder with that contains my 36 speeding tickets...

I started at age 4 when my dad was in Korea. For Christmas of 1952 I got an old brass, mechanical, wind-up alarm clock and a few, appropriate small tools; not a great Christmas, but, after a few days I started in on the clock; it didn't work and it didn't work despite my best efforts; what I learned was the relationship between the parts and how they interacted; I can almost see it now. I feel that to be successful as a mechanic, specialist if you like, you must know how the parts work together and what their requirements are so that they can do their job in the mechanical mayhem that a British motorcycle presents to parts that go around and up and down; if you to get this right the mayhem will be visited on your body.

Where I do agree with you is if the nameless persons you refer to knows when to ask questions; there are some very good examples of such individuals participating on the forum.

Well taken point, just had to add a sense of qualification.

Best.

I don’t agree with the ‘buy a cheap wreck’ either.

Yes, it worked for you GP, but you had barns full of parts to draw on and years of experience behind you. For a new Norton enthusiast to turn that chop into a nice Commando would cost him WAY more than buying a nice Commando!

So, IF the OP wants to ride rather than embark upon a full resto, my advice is actually the opposite, be prepared to pay more for a half decent bike. Do not pay top dollar for a top bike, just aim for a bike that looks in good overall condition, one that you can ride whilst going about a gradual process of your chosen upgrades.

There are still plenty of good, low mileage bikes that come on the market in the US and they’re far cheaper than they would be in the U.K., Europe or Australia. You guys still got it good over there. Enjoy !

All things considered, there is no getting around the fact that unless you find a GREAT deal, ending up with a legal, good-looking, good-running Commando is going to end up costing around $7,500, one way or twelve others.

[QUOTE

What's really amazing about that bike is SOMEONE thought it was cool at one time........
Not sure why the Z plates are still on it.

Though the trained eye can see the bones are there, I agree with FE. I would never recommend this to first timer.