My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

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Since you have the frame down this far and trouble removing that rear isolastic bolt, as a quick remedy peel back the rubber gaiters and saw through the bolt at the point where the isolastic PTFE washer is. Of course this method destroys the long bolt and iso cap parts.
 

L.A.B.

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Think I will be getting a Mk3 spindle...

What advantage do you think it has?

Not sure i'm progressing in the correct order, but thought the engine should come out first.

Until I got to this bolt ????

View attachment 16883

Who designed this?


SDC13735.jpg
 

TomU

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Since you have the frame down this far and trouble removing that rear isolastic bolt, as a quick remedy peel back the rubber gaiters and saw through the bolt at the point where the isolastic PTFE washer is. Of course this method destroys the long bolt and iso cap parts.

Drastic times call for drastic measures!

But will try bashing the hell out of it first :)
 

Fast Eddie

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Drastic times call for drastic measures!

But will try bashing the hell out of it first :)

The stud doesn't look too rusted, before bashing the hell out of it, try getting plenty of penetrating oil in there...
 

L.A.B.

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It has the notches

So does the latest 'long' spindle now (as well as the central bolt hole).



The Mk3 spindle is shorter.
 
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TomU

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So does the latest 'long' spindle now (as well as the central bolt hole).

The Mk3 spindle is shorter.

Thanks for clarifying that.

What it needs is a poly bushing. Wonder if anyone has tried that
 
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Oil and bashing. Then cutting
My experience was that the steel sleeves on the isolastic bushings corroded on the long stud.
First indication of trouble is when you can't turn the stud.
The bashing on the stud effect is probably reduced by the isolatic rubbers absorbing the shock.

I have thought that perhaps drilling a small hole in the cradle tube for occasionally injecting some rust inhibitor would be a simple mod.
 

gortnipper

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The rear iso spindle is becoming a major PITA. I banged the hell out of it with a sledge and a "soft drift" and it only budged an inch or so. Any ideas? I'm thinking on attaching a nut and dispensing with the soft drift (which in my case was a piece of 2x4)
That is how I got mine out for rebuilding a few years ago. Took quite a hammering and some warming up.
 

batrider

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You might have better luck easing it out with washers and various lengths of pipe to make a puller using the existing nut. You are right that the iso rubbers just absorb the hammer blows. Also load it up with a good penetrating oil.
 

TomU

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You might have better luck easing it out with washers and various lengths of pipe to make a puller using the existing nut. You are right that the iso rubbers just absorb the hammer blows. Also load it up with a good penetrating oil.

Thought about that, but it would put pressure on the frame tab. It probably wouldn’t deflect much though. That might be my next course after banging and before cutting
 

Richard Tool

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Bat rider is on track with this ... if you can draw it over to one side with threaded rods & plates until the rubber spacers have flexed as far they will then drive it with a drift the energy from the blows will go to moving the spindle rather than deflecting the spacers.
Lengths of hardwood dowel fitted with copper end caps from the world of plumbing fittings make excellent soft drifts . You can make them in a variety of lengths and diameters to suit different jobs very inexpensively .
D6328FEB-C86E-4CA5-AD19-155D9860C7F0.jpeg
 
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The rear iso spindle is becoming a major PITA. I banged the hell out of it with a sledge and a "soft drift" and it only budged an inch or so. Any ideas? I'm thinking on attaching a nut and dispensing with the soft drift (which in my case was a piece of 2x4)

Yes, you can thread the nut on to one side until it's flush with the end of the spindle, then place a length of black pipe over the stud on the other side. Take a powerful bar clamp and place it from the head of the nut to the base of the black pipe on the other side and apply pressure. You need a bar clamp like the one pictured below. It can apply a lot of force. If you spray the pin with penetrating oil, apply the clamp and orient the frame so gravity draws the oil into the pin, it should eventually pop free from the continuous pressure. As a cabinetmaker, I have these already, so it's a technique that costs me nothing.... You can also apply heat to the shaft too.

895-768.jpg
 

batrider

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It might help to use a dead blow hammer if pounding. I bought my first one last year and wish I had done that many moons ago. I like the pre-stressing the rubbers idea! When putting it back I used antiseize madly.
 

TomU

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More patina

IMG_1595sm.jpg


The entire underside is one big sludgefest. Probably from the chain oiler which will get deleted
 

TomU

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Got the gearbox out and fork tubes (took me a while to figure out you just pull hard on them straight out, don't twist)

The gutted frame seems rather emasculated...

IMG_1607sm.jpg


Rear iso spindle remains at large
 

Fast Eddie

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Under the grime everything looks remarkably good to my eye. I think you have a fabulous starting point with that...
 
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