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I'm now at the stage of thinking about the fuel system. Question for the group. Internal or external fuel filters (or both)? I think the consensus i've read is internal (i.e. petcock filters), but thought i'd ask (or is it oil question?).

Was thinking about this pingel fuel filter. It's 1 in, 2 out. Can't do 2 in because the petcocks are 1/4" and the FF is 5/16. I could do 2 adaptors, but already have a 1/4-5/16 tee which i could then run to the FF (will be running both petcocks on simultaneously since they both have a reserve). The carbs are 5/16 so i could direct connect them. Advantage would not having to remove the petcocks to clean the FF and the pingel is probably a better filter than the petcock filters. Disadvantage is cost and not sure yet if there would be any fitment problems. Thoughts/recommendations?

ss12p_n.jpg
 
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I run a single similar setup - but one on each petcock. If you heat the 1/4 hose in boiled water for a min then the are easy to get over the 5/16 barb.


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Mikuni carbs right?

Unless you’re 101% sure that every crevice in your tank is as clean as new, I’d run in line filters. Japanese carbs are far less tolerant about such stuff then Amal’s.

The things fitted to the peacocks are strainers, not filters, and will happily pass stuff thats capable of screwing up the carbs. I know cos I’ve been there !
 
You can heat the fuel hose with a heat gun as well to get 1/4" hose on a 5/16" barb, but the hose might be very difficult to get off without the use of a heat gun again.

Heed FF's advice about the small orifice Japanese carburetors. They really don't like fine grit like what can come from rust or a dirty filler hose at a gas station. I actually don't use an inline filter, but it is a case of being forgetful and too lazy to change my hose setup. It has bit me once so far. Got gas from a gas station that needs new fuel tanks in the middle of nowhere 97 miles from home. Bucked off and on all the way home. Thought it was going to stall on the hwy, and at stops when closer to home, but was able to get it home blipping the throttle at stops. Pain in the butt that was.
 
Thanks all, good advice. I will plan to run an in-line filter then. And yes, Mikunis
 
Not sure i need a catch can, but went ahead and installed one since there's space

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I have something similar in my '65 El Camino. I think it's bigger though. ;)

You could eat of the back of that motor it is so clean. Nice :cool:
 
Schwany said:
I have something similar in my '65 El Camino. I think it's bigger though. ;)
Click to expand...
You really only need a catch can on forced induction and direct injected engines. The stock setup is for the oil tank to vent in the air cleaner. Think most that don't use the stock ham can install a filter on the oil tank vent. If it does puke oil, it'll eventually wick through the filter, hence the catch can. Will see if it actually catches any oil
 
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TomU said:
You really on need a catch can on forced induction and direct injected engines. The stock setup is for the oil tank to vent in the air cleaner. Think most that don't use the stock ham can install a filter on the oil tank vent. If it does puke oil, it'll eventually wick through the filter, hence the catch can. Will see if it actually catches any oil
Click to expand...
Sidetracking: My El Camino is multiport fuel injected. Edelbrock ProFlo 4 with a few of my modifications. I use the catch can as a catch can in the PCV plumbing arrangement. It is handy. I built up my Norton rather than putting forced induction on the El Camino. Forced induction would be very hard on the rear tires, and I'd have to put bigger brakes and brake calipers on it. It would also be one more thing to worry about. Got enough of that.

On my Norton the catch can (small air compressor water filter) is way back near the drive side shock mount. It always has some oil in it after a ride longer than 10 miles. It is mostly froth, because the plumbing to the catch can comes off a froth tower on top of the oil tank. Not a Commando, but the same thing would work on a Commando. On a stock version of my Norton I believe the output from the froth tower would be for a messy chain oiler. I have to empty the clear plastic screw off container when getting close to 200 miles on a ride if I'm not obeying the speed limit. Otherwise, I think it'll go to around 300 miles before it starts bubbling inside.

I would think you may see some oil in the catch can.
 
TomU said:
They are long, but thinner than the bullet connectors. Do you know of any connector that is thinner and shorter? They are also easy to de-pin

I also moved this mess inside the headlight, and the flasher unit, and a bunch of diodes. I also have a lot of ground and power connections. Think there's a better way to wire these, but i'll save that for another day (it all works :))

I was able to tie it up a little.

Only issue i have now is the bezel doesn't seem to want to fit on the shell. The shell seems wider. It's a new headlight shell and bezel.
Click to expand...
I just noticed that you have these exposed terminals.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


I had my switch short out some other wiring in the shell, and blow the main fuse. Many times. By the side of the road. I had to go fetch new fuses because I ran out before I could isolate the issue.

May do well to blank off the exposed terminals with an insulated female spade.
 
I went ahead and got the IKON 7614 dampers. They are probably overkill, but didn't really care for the chrome body on the other models.

IMG_1311sm.jpg


They are slightly longer (not compressed) and surprisingly heavier (weights are kg)

IMG_1310sm.jpg


IMG_1308sm.jpg
 
Now on to the rocker oil feed. So i got the nice stainless feed from AN

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

And then i notice it's the same one as described in this thread

www.accessnorton.com

Venhill Stainless Rocker Oil Line Too Long (2011)

I bought this premium Venhill rocker arm oil line recently to upgrade from the plastic line and have to say that I'm not at all happy with it. It is well made but waaaaaaaaay too long and has cheap looking plated hardware. If I had not already installed it on the motor, I would return it to the...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

It's definitely too long (across the head as well as down to the crankcase), got the double banjo feed, and uses chrome bolts. Don't like any of that.

So my choices are:

1) Go with it as-is (can the feed at least be moved to the drive side vs the timing side?)
2) Cut the hose and reattach the fittings (with plenty of chances to screw it up)
3) Cut the hose and use a double banjo fitting (at $60 US :oops:)

90 degree Double Banjo #3 Hose End, 3/8 inch (10mm) - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

This 90 degree double banjo #3 hose end fitting is designed to work with our -3 PTFE Lined Stainless Braided Hose. It is a great way to connect two brake lines to a single master cylinder outlet.
www.pegasusautoracing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com

4) Build a complete new set from scratch and try to sell the unused Venhill set
5) Go with the RGM set (think this is a better design, it feeds both rockers simultaneously)

www.rgmnorton.co.uk

BRAIDED STAINLESS COMMANDO ROCKER OIL FEED COMPLETE INC, BOLTS & WASHERS

075561S RGM NORTON ROCKER OIL FEED COMPLETE
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

6) Remove and drill out the rocker spindle




I probably should have gone with 6 from the get go, but did not know at the time. Now, it would mean removing the spindle and shipping it out and reinstalling it. And i'd still need to build a line from the crankcase to the head. So, i'm leaning between 3 and 4.
 
TomU said:
1) Go with it as-is (can the feed at least be moved to the drive side vs the timing side?)
Click to expand...

Are you certain the lower section is too long as it is routed incorrectly in the first pictures of that linked thread?

Any extra length can be lost at the lower end by increasing the radius of the hose where it passes through the cradle from the timing cover.

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TomU said:
Cut the hose and reattach the fittings (with plenty of chances to screw it up)
Click to expand...

It's not too difficult to shorten them although probably just the cross-over section (but the tricky part is getting the cut end banjo realigned correctly or the line will end up twisted when fitted.
You will need at least one of these (if you get the banjo angled correctly the first time).
www.summitracing.com

Aeroquip FBM3720 Aeroquip AN Tube Ferrules | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Aeroquip AN Tube Ferrules with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Tube Ferrules at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
 
They are too long IMO. Maybe that's the way they are supposed to be, but IMO - too long

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