My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

TomU

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So, i spent the summer on have-to-do projects vs. want-to-do (damn misdirected priorities). Anyhoo, figured i should get things painted while the weather is still amenable in my geo location (thank you global warming :)) so i can start putting things back together over the winter. My initial plan was to spray paint the chassis components (cradle, swingarm, etc), but leave the frame original and touch up any rust spots with rust converter. Upon closer inspection the frame, how would you say, has a lot of patina. I think it'd look out of place with painted components and clean barrel/head. So i decided to paint it.

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I'm not looking for a professional paint job mind you, just freshening up the paint. I had already started painting the components using VHT Epoxy. Epoxy is supposed to be more durable than Enamel, so that sounded like the ticket, plus i have used VHT in the past and had been happy with their products

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Things seemed to be going ok.

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Then i clear coated (after waiting 2 days per VHT instructions) with Rust-Oleum "Premium Custom Lacquer" which is reported to be 50x more durable than their enamel paint.

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The next day, I noticed some slight orange peel on the cradle. I picked at it hoping to just have to touch it up a couple small areas, but things escalated :eek:

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OMG. Seems lacquer (and i believe probably most clear) in spray cans has a high percentage of solvent to allow smooth flow from a spray can. Of course the solvent then eats away the base coat. It could also be a reaction between the epoxy base coat and lacquer clear coat

Damnit! Now you need a PhD just to spray paint???? Again, not looking for a professional job here.

My guess i need to let the paint cure for much longer than 2 days. The other components did not orange peel, so i'll leave them a month or so and test for adhesion. Hopefully it's a curing issue that time will heal. If i have to strip and repaint, that will set me back at least 4 months.

Besides the peeling problem, the VHT/lacquer combo seems to have a slight gray tinge. It's not super deep black.

So i'm now looking at Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Gloss Frame Paint and Spray Max clear. They both seem to get pretty good reviews. Anyone have experience with these or any other spray paint recommendations.

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mean gene

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I know where your at! To many satin -matt -semi gloss paints that don't preform well. There are a lot of powder coaters in my area, the last bike frame cost me $130. BUT don't forget to plug hole and put bolts in threaded holes!
 

MichaelB

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I like VHT paints and would use this, without a clear. Easily touched up in the future.

I'm not a paint expert but I'm reasonably sure your issue falls with the clear lacquer over the fresh epoxy/enamel.
 

TomU

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I like VHT paints and would use this, without a clear. Easily touched up in the future.

I'm not a paint expert but I'm reasonably sure your issue falls with the clear lacquer over the fresh epoxy/enamel.
Yeah, i'm thinking it's the clear coat. I've already clear coated the components, so i'll just have to wait on those. I have not painted the frame yet. I may try the spray max on a test specimen. The spray max is a 2 part system that mixes in the can. Think it may have less solvents, so we'll see.

As for VHT, i wonder what the difference is between the roll bar epoxy and the regular epoxy. i couldn't find any info on-line
 

TomU

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I know where your at! To many satin -matt -semi gloss paints that don't preform well. There are a lot of powder coaters in my area, the last bike frame cost me $130. BUT don't forget to plug hole and put bolts in threaded holes!
$130. Hmmmm
 

Fast Eddie

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It’s a freakin’ nightmare these days.

Even if you have a ‘go to product’ that you’ve used successfully before, the formulas change so quickly these days that the only thing you can rely on being the same is the name!

Stuff reacting with stuff after having spent hours getting everything as good as you can is infuriating in my opinion.

This is why, apart from a few brackets or components I might make or modify, I get my painting done by a pro, it’s much quicker and much better and MUCH, MUCH less stress. And I also think that it’s not actually that much more expensive when the real total cost of DIY, inc a few strip and re paints, is taken into account,

I am also of the (uneducated) opinion that there’s not really any such thing as genuinely tough rattle can paint, despite their claims, it all chips easily in my experience.

Years ago I used to do ALL my own painting, with rattle cans. No more,

All in all, my personal advice is to get it loaded up and taken to a pro.

Lifes too short !!
 
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batrider

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I'm a rattler. It is best to stick with one paint manufacturer and their "system". Clear over paint can be tricky. I've found that spraying some very light coats of clear before the heavier coats will minimize interaction with the base paint. But In this case, lacquer over enamel is just no good.
 

NPeteN

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I've had success with spray max primers/clear and color rite paints.

As batrider said, stick with a system and go SLOW. You get what you pay for.
 

NPeteN

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Protection, you can sand and buff a clear coat to a mirror finish.
 

Fast Eddie

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I understand that with metallic paint etc.

But you can do the same with solid black…

People used to think I was a good painter. I wasn’t, I just put plenty on so I could sand and then cut it back. Came out like glass !!
 

Richard Tool

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I understand that with metallic paint etc.

But you can do the same with solid black…

People used to think I was a good painter. I wasn’t, I just put plenty on so I could sand and then cut it back. Came out like glass !!
That would indeed make you a good painter - that’s what the pros do .
 

batrider

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Also sometimes there is lettering and/or decals on the paint where a clearcoat can provide additional protection.
 

Richard Tool

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Ha!
Well, I’m pretty sure a pro would need somewhat less cutting back than I needed !!
The art is in not burning through the paint on hard corners, etc.
Old school systems were a lot more forgiving . Today’s waterborne finishes- metallics in particular- with the necessary clear top coat are much more difficult, at least for me . I had a professional buddy paint my Commando yokes for me in metallic silver and I chipped the finish assembling them . He gave me touch up stuff and I tried my best to airbrush away the damage. I didn’t do very well.
 
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grandpaul

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Properly prep your parts to absolutely clean bare metal, refurbished as required.

As quickly as possible, plug and mask per Old Britts guidelines.

IMMEDIATELY deliver to powdercoating shop that has your place in the queue open to begin coating using high quality powder and has a KNOWN reputation for excellent work,

Forget ever having to touch up or buff out ANYTHING unless you later have to repair or modify powdercoated part(s). If/when that becomes necessary, clean repaired area well, then mask immediately surround the repair and carefully apply 2 coats of Rust-O-Leum gloss black.

I have never even had to put pipe insulation in a frame to protect it from installation scratches. The stuff WORKS (when it's done right).

I do NOT powdercoat engine parts. Rust-O-Leum gloss black (2 coats) on clean and masked cylinders.

I'll stick to this advice unwaveringly.
 
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