mudguards ????

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Aug 12, 2017
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morning ladies and gents ,
whats your thoughts on mudguard selection ? do i go alloy (as factory std ) or not (stainless or chromed steel ) ???
yes i understand that alot of rears were swopped over from alloy to steel due to cracks over in the us. but mine wont be rode too aggressively and defo not in the desert !

cheers
andy
 
morning ladies and gents ,
whats your thoughts on mudguard selection ? do i go alloy (as factory std ) or not (stainless or chromed steel ) ???
yes i understand that alot of rears were swopped over from alloy to steel due to cracks over in the us. but mine wont be rode too aggressively and defo not in the desert !

cheers
andy

If you decide to go with alloy, buy two or more!

Mike B
 
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As Mike B stated the aluminum mud guards tended to crack. The later bikes went to chromed steel.
Cheers,
Tom
 
Hmmm ! I was going alloy as they were factory fitted , mines a 68 but am going for high pipe look , will check prices for both , that maybe deciding factor and availability here in the uk .
 
I don't believe the P11A was ever supplied with aluminum fenders. Keep in mind there are three different rear fenders. The P11 was aluminum (possibly chrome offered as a replacement), the P11A was chrome and drilled differently as the fender support has only two tabs as opposed to three on the early P11. Also the P11A used the heavier cast alloy taillight which will exacerbate the weakness of the aluminum fender. The Ranger 750 rear fender is longer and extends much further under the seat and bolts to the frame.

Obviously you can make an aluminum rear fender from a blank and drill it to match the P11A pattern, but an actual P11 alloy fender will have the mounting holes in the wrong place.
 
Andy, Steve at AMC spares here in the UK has a new batch of Front Ally mudguards in if you go down that route.
 
My P11A, bought new in May of 1968 was delivered with alloy fenders front and rear. Of course they were replaced in less than a year with steel ones due to the alloy breaking at the bolt holes. They were never mounted with rubber or nylon washers to help protect them. I always thought alloy looked best but were hard to live with.

C-ya, Jer


I don't believe the P11A was ever supplied with aluminum fenders. Keep in mind there are three different rear fenders. The P11 was aluminum (possibly chrome offered as a replacement), the P11A was chrome and drilled differently as the fender support has only two tabs as opposed to three on the early P11. Also the P11A used the heavier cast alloy taillight which will exacerbate the weakness of the aluminum fender. The Ranger 750 rear fender is longer and extends much further under the seat and bolts to the frame.

Obviously you can make an aluminum rear fender from a blank and drill it to match the P11A pattern, but an actual P11 alloy fender will have the mounting holes in the wrong place.
 
I "made" one from a Commando rear stainless fender. It has the correct cross section for appearance, and there is enough of an undrilled section to make it the correct length. looks closer to alloy, and is highly crack resistant. Twenty seven years ago, and still going. Of course it helps to have a pattern.
 
Lots of food for thought from you gentlemen , I don’t actually have any muudguards on my bike , it is as in the profile picture on the left , I don’t have the alloy lamp bracket either ,but I have a pressed steel one fitted to the early p11’s so I think I’ll go with the aluminium guards, how long will they last ? Who knows !!
 
Andy, Steve at AMC spares here in the UK has a new batch of Front Ally mudguards in if you go down that route.
Thanks Pete , I’ve been in touch with steve last week or week before regards this , your correct he has the fronts but no rears as yet , his mudguard man is a bit slow apparently !
 
When I got my P11A it had chrome steel rear, and alloy front fender. I believe this was correct, the bike was about 80-90% complete, but rough. The front was correctly riveted to the cross brace, so I'm pretty sure it was original, and the steel rear was the correct length, profile and has the correct holes. I posted a picture of it on hear a couple years ago, before the Photobucket mess.

B
 
My '68 "A" has an alloy front and a chrome rear.
My '67 has alloy front and rear.

Both original, non restored bikes.

For those with restored bikes, what method/rivets are you using to attach the cross brace when replacing the front fender?
Where do you get the special original type rivets?
 
got an alloy on the way from steve at amc spares and now picked up locally a steel unchromed rear which seems to fit the rear frame loop ok ( ill fit this with rubber gromets in the mounting holes ) ill cut and carve to make as best job as i can and have it chromed.
regards the rivits for the cross brace ( bridge) i go a big bag from a local supplier which i think will fit ok , they are just aluminium solid round head rivits . when my guard turns up ill fit the bridge and be 100% sure the rivits are correct .
 
Use penny washers on mounting points, to spread the load, if you have your own lathe you can make them from alloy.

I Dunsallised an Atlas once and never had any cracks in mudguards, but I had 6 mounting points on the front mudguard.
 
hi bernhard , rear i assume ? as well as rubber gromets in the mudguard holes ? i have a lathe so shouldnt be a problem
 
The rear was always problematic due to the lack of mounting points. I continually cracked the standard steel guard and the alloy one would wag about like a friendly dog so I reinforced underneath it on the mounting holes-it was such a long time ago that I cannot remember if it was successful
 
I also am looking for mudguards for my P11. I am pretty sure that I am going to go with alloy ones from 7 Metal West. I considered going with ribbed fenders, but will probably end up just going with the plain ones. Comments like "...be sure to buy 2..." do not make me interested in buying OEM type, but I still want alloy ones. These: http://7metalwest.com/ (scroll down about halfway to get to the alloy fenders) are .125" thick and are available with various ends (duck tail, radius, straight cut).

All I need to know is how wide an original P11 fender is and approximately what diameter a P11 rear fender would be if it were made in a continuous circle.

They also have steel, copper and brass fenders if those interest anybody on here...
 
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