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The lifter is set as your suggestion. In order to put a dial indicator on the valve I will need to make a platform for the magnetic base. The only thing to bolt it down is to remove one of the big head nuts and use that. I tried to start it again after CAREFULLY checking the crank position and Boyer timing. I couldn't be more on target. After a few kicks there was what sounded like a gunshot and then completely unresponsive after that. The new Lead Acid battery has 12.2 volts, about all I can expect from a lead acid battery. Usually the Boyer will still fire correctly even with this low a voltage but maybe not this time? One reason that I don't want to check valve timing is that it is a real bear to R&R the right side case to access the cam gear. I had to do it last night to put the kickstart return spring back on it's peg...it took me 2.5 hours to get the geared clutch pushrod pusher gizmo back into it's position so the lever would be correct. I was just about to give up and make a new cable to get around the problem when, by happenstance, it engaged with the correct tooth. I did slowly turn the motor over watching piston position when the valves were opening and closing......not perfect but I could see it was opening and closing as it should...it wasn't wildly off. To sum up...with the cam gear off 4 teeth it will fire up and run half-assed. With the timing marks on the money it has no chance of running. I'm about to park it on the street with a sign "TAKE THIS, PLEASE!!"

<blockquote data-quote="seattle##gs" data-source="post: 656832" data-attributes="member: 7043"><p>The lifter is set as your suggestion.&nbsp; In order to put a dial indicator on the valve I will need to make a platform for the magnetic base.&nbsp; The only thing to bolt it down is to remove one of the big head nuts and use that.&nbsp; I tried to start it again after CAREFULLY checking the crank position and Boyer timing.&nbsp; I couldn&#039;t be more on target.&nbsp; After a few kicks there was what sounded like a gunshot and then completely unresponsive after that.&nbsp; The new Lead Acid battery has 12.2 volts, about all I can expect from a lead acid battery.&nbsp; Usually the Boyer will still fire correctly even with this low a voltage but maybe not this time? One reason that I don&#039;t want to check valve timing is that it is a real bear to R&amp;R the right side case to access the cam gear.&nbsp; I had to do it last night to put the kickstart return spring back on it&#039;s peg...it took me 2.5 hours to get the geared clutch pushrod pusher gizmo back into it&#039;s position so the lever would be correct.&nbsp; I was just about to give up and make a new cable to get around the problem when, by happenstance, it engaged with the correct tooth.&nbsp; I did slowly turn the motor over watching piston position when the valves were opening and closing......not perfect but I could see it was opening and closing as it should...it wasn&#039;t wildly off.&nbsp;&nbsp; To sum up...with the cam gear off 4 teeth it will fire up and run&nbsp; half-assed.&nbsp; With the timing marks on the money it has no chance of running.&nbsp;&nbsp; I&#039;m about to park it on the street with a sign &quot;TAKE THIS, PLEASE!!&quot;</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="seattle##gs, post: 656832, member: 7043"] The lifter is set as your suggestion. In order to put a dial indicator on the valve I will need to make a platform for the magnetic base. The only thing to bolt it down is to remove one of the big head nuts and use that. I tried to start it again after CAREFULLY checking the crank position and Boyer timing. I couldn't be more on target. After a few kicks there was what sounded like a gunshot and then completely unresponsive after that. The new Lead Acid battery has 12.2 volts, about all I can expect from a lead acid battery. Usually the Boyer will still fire correctly even with this low a voltage but maybe not this time? One reason that I don't want to check valve timing is that it is a real bear to R&R the right side case to access the cam gear. I had to do it last night to put the kickstart return spring back on it's peg...it took me 2.5 hours to get the geared clutch pushrod pusher gizmo back into it's position so the lever would be correct. I was just about to give up and make a new cable to get around the problem when, by happenstance, it engaged with the correct tooth. I did slowly turn the motor over watching piston position when the valves were opening and closing......not perfect but I could see it was opening and closing as it should...it wasn't wildly off. To sum up...with the cam gear off 4 teeth it will fire up and run half-assed. With the timing marks on the money it has no chance of running. I'm about to park it on the street with a sign "TAKE THIS, PLEASE!!" [/QUOTE]

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