More faulty stuff... oh... hang on a minute....

So recently, my fancy Smiths electronic tacho starting jerking and waving around, then it got to the point that it was fairly well unless. Ha well me thinks, time to take it off, undo all of the wiring, send it back, etc, etc...

Then, more recently, the bike starts misfiring, I get home and look in the points housing, its bloody hot in there innit? Obviously the Tri-Spark has failed due to heat like others have speculated, has't it? Time to take it off, send it back, etc, etc...

Well, err, no...

I noticed one of the bullet connectors didn't look quite so (whoever did that )...

I fitted a new connector and guess what... Tacho and Tri-Spark both working fine! Makes you realise dunnit? How many connectors are on one bike? And it only takes one duffer to cause problems. Ya gotta wonder how many Boyer / Tri-Spark / etc issues are partly down to connectors!

I think a small zip tie is in order to stop my connectors vibrating around.

Anyway, I'm still chuffed with these Smiths electronic clocks, speedo and tacho perfectly steady at an indicted 110mph at 7,000rpm... In third...!

110 in 3 rd?
Sounds as though the fresh engine break-in period has drawn to a close..... 8)

Hobot does 110 in 2nd, so what?

hee hee

worntorn said:

110 in 3 rd?
Sounds as though the fresh engine break-in period has drawn to a close..... 8)

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Well, I have managed to get out on the 'Blue Bomber' a few times this week so thought I'd wind up the running in process with a few squirts up the local by-pass and a 15 mile cruise at a decent lick (ie a steady 90)! Sounds a bit much to some I imagIne, but I do believe in caning a motor to properly declare it 'bedded in'.

I was surprised by the 110 in third to be honest. FYI, that's with a 22 tooth sprocket and a Norvil belt drive, of which, I've forgotten the ratio!

It still feels under geared to me though, as first is only engaged for such a short time, and I so often go for an extra cog when already in 4th. I intend to fit a Maney belt drive this winter as that will raise the gearing (based on my earlier looking into this). Ad with it raising the primary gearing, that gives the gearbox an easier life too.

unless frequent disconnection is absolutely necessary, I've gotten into the habit of using these nifty little solder splice connectors

If you use pre-insulated coloured crimp terminals, failure is pretty well inevitable.

Triton Thrasher said:

If you use pre-insulated coloured crimp terminals, failure is pretty well inevitable.

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Yes TT, I agree with that! I now use Japanese style ones (as in the OEM style, common on all Japanese bikes) and they're very good (I get such stuff from these folks: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/). I can't blame a faulty connector, only the guy who fitted it and (at least its my suspected root cause) didn't support the connectors properly against vibration

Acadian: I haven't seen those solder splices before and they look like a good idea. Not in this application though as the wires need disturbing whenever the timing cover is removed.

110mph in third? Where's Rohan? ;-)

Fast Eddie said:

I was surprised by the 110 in third to be honest. FYI, that's with a 22 tooth sprocket and a Norvil belt drive, of which, I've forgotten the ratio!

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That seem about right. I run a 20t on RGM belt drive to 100 in third at 7200rpm.

freefly103 said:

110mph in third? Where's Rohan? ;-)

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My stock standard 850 with 22t sprocket (and no belt drive obviously) would nudge 100mph,
if you revved the zinger out of it in 3rd before clicking into 4th.

Thats what the mph chart in the manual says it will do, btw. (do note that 22t sprocket)

I wouldn't like to do that to it too often though, and the last few mph only come reluctantly.
The specs says the power drops away after the std cam gets beyond 6500, and I'd believe it...
If you waited long enough it might get to 100 - or leave engine bits all along the road...
Without even exceeding redline (7000).

I had the same issue with my Smith's electronic clocks. They started doing their startup thing, going through the full range of movement whilst I was on the move. Usually, the first sign of a flat battery is that the indicators don't flash, they just stay on. Now, I have a new flat battery alert. Like you, I couldn't be happier with the Smiths gauges ( and the Tri Spark!) after going through endless problems with the stock stuff. I was, at one stage, planning to make billet stainless speedo drives, seeing as the standard ones are such crap, and expensive to boot. I was telling Matt at cNw my plans and he said, "Well that's ONE of the issues with the stock instruments dealt with!" I gave up the idea.

Rohan said:

freefly103 said:

110mph in third? Where's Rohan? ;-)

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My stock standard 850 with 22t sprocket (and no belt drive obviously) would nudge 100mph,
if you revved the zinger out of it in 3rd before clicking into 4th.

Thats what the mph chart in the manual says it will do, btw. (do note that 22t sprocket)

I wouldn't like to do that to it too often though, and the last few mph only come reluctantly.
The specs says the power drops away after the std cam gets beyond 6500, and I'd believe it...
If you waited long enough it might get to 100 - or leave engine bits all along the road...
Without even exceeding redline (7000).

Click to expand...

Mine wasn't a 'test' Rohan, its just what I saw after 'a quick squirt' I was still upright (ish) with USA spec handle bars and my 6 foot frame with wax cotton jacket acting like a sail!

If I'd got prone, and hung on to WOT a bit longer, I'm sure I'd see higher revs and mph.

What surprised me was A) the fact it got to 7,000 in third SO quickly and B) seeing 110 on the speedo.

And you're right... I shouldn't do it too often... I'll try not to... honest...!

Fullauto said:

I had the same issue with my Smith's electronic clocks. They started doing their startup thing, going through the full range of movement whilst I was on the move. Usually, the first sign of a flat battery is that the indicators don't flash, they just stay on. Now, I have a new flat battery alert. Like you, I couldn't be happier with the Smiths gauges ( and the Tri Spark!) after going through endless problems with the stock stuff. I was, at one stage, planning to make billet stainless speedo drives, seeing as the standard ones are such crap, and expensive to boot. I was telling Matt at cNw my plans and he said, "Well that's ONE of the issues with the stock instruments dealt with!" I gave up the idea.

Click to expand...

Indeed Ken, its interesting that my tacho showed something was wrong before any missfire, or any ignition symptom at all was evident. I drew the same conclusion as you did... Cool early warning system...!

we in NZ used to fill the timing housing with sponge to stop those wires from vibrating. But they still broke in the Boyer.

Dereck

acadian said:

unless frequent disconnection is absolutely necessary, I've gotten into the habit of using these nifty little solder splice connectors

Click to expand...

Anywhere online to buy these connectors?

seanthomasking said:

acadian said:

unless frequent disconnection is absolutely necessary, I've gotten into the habit of using these nifty little solder splice connectors

Click to expand...

Anywhere online to buy these connectors?

Click to expand...

They should be easily available locally, but just in case

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1216260154 ... noapp=true:
I think this is what you are looking for.

FWIW there is also low temp solder available for for connections where you don't want a lot of heat. I prefer to solder a connection and use marine shrink tubing. It contains a glue inside so that when you heat the tubing it shrinks and seals the joint. It also adds strength to the connection. Harbor Freight has the shrink tubing. I use to get the low temp solder from Radio Shack.

Pete