- Aug 13, 2008
Whilst my workshop isn't as well equipped as yours Ken, I do have the same high quality yoghurt parts containers .
I certainly hope so!Fast Eddie said:Looks pretty awesome Ken!
So, we'll soon see / here it running shall we...?
They are handy, aren't they? My wife goes through a lot of that particular Trader Joe yogurt, so I have a ready supply of the containers.triumph2 said:Whilst my workshop isn't as well equipped as yours Ken, I do have the same high quality yoghurt parts containers .
I rarely use the rear brake on the street, Alan, so I think it will probably be fine with the brake stay on the swing arm. I agree that you can change it's effect on the bike under braking by moving the attachment point around on the frame, but the theoretical benefit just doesn't look worth the effort for a street bike. There are a lot of production bikes and race bikes with the caliper mounted to the swing arm with no problems. Besides, I used this same setup on my race Commando for many years, so I know it works fine.acotrel said:If you are changing the yoke offset and the rake, when you first ride the bike take care and be sensitive to how the bike is behaving when entering and leaving corners. If it stands up when braking into corner - that is really bad. If it self-steers and tightens it's line when powering out of corners, that can be good if you ride in a way that can use it to advantage, but might not be good on a road bike - neutral steering might be better. In any case the handling should inspire confidence, not destroy it. The difference between good handling and bad handling is very small when you are making fork yokes.
I noticed in that photo of the rear brake you will be using, that the end of the stay for the calliper is attached to the swing arm - attached to the engine plate at the rear of the gearbox with a rose joints might be better. That way it might tend to lower the rear end of the bike when you use it.
It might seem so, but it's not really feasible for me. Doing them on a manual mill and lathe is pretty slow. Jim can produce them for CNW on his CNC way faster, and better looking too. His design is also more compact because he uses a different reed valve. Besides, I'm just copying his idea, so it doesn't seem right to try to sell them. I just enjoy making things myself. At 74 years of age, I still get excited about learning new skills in the shop, and making something different. If you don't count my labor, it cost me only $35 or so to make it. Of course if you count my labor at any reasonable rate, it was unbelievably expensive.grandpaul said:Nice bit of kit.
You should whip up a dozen and help offset your engine build cost.
It will require a custom primary cover. It would have anyhow because of the starter brackets.worntorn said:Looks good Ken
Will this primary setup require a custom made primary cover?
Did the crank extend out to the outboard face of the rotor or did you use some sort of deep nut to pick up threads?