MK3 Restomod

You'll make it work without new cases.

It actually doesn't look that bad. Just a really an annoying minor unpredictable clearance issue. Is that being too positive? lol
 
That's OK Schwany, I'm a ridiculously optimistic sort. Maybe too much so. :rolleyes: I always assume that I can find some way to fix any mechanical issue if I work at it hard enough. Unfortunately, that isn't always true in the real world. But looking at these kinds of issues as a challenge keeps me a lot happier than complaining about how unfair life is. And if that fails, there's always a good whiskey to improve ones appreciation for life.

Ken
 
Ken, this couldn’t have happened to a better person.

Meaning, you will approach it soundly and fix it properly.

For many mere mortals it would be a catastrophe. For you it‘ll no doubt be a minor hiccup!

Carry on.
 
Some more progress. I managed to pull the drive side half off without too much trouble, leaving the rest of the bottom end intact.

MK3 Restomod


These pics show the damage in more detail.

MK3 Restomod



MK3 Restomod


The broken lip is only .033" thick, but after removing the broken ends, there is still maybe 75% of it left. I'm tempted to just fit (very carefully) a new seal, and go with it. I'm reluctant to try welding it up and machining the lip back. My experience with welding the cases in that area is that it shrinks the bearing bore enough that I would have to re-bore it. The other option is to bore out the seal area and fit a machined insert. Decisions, decisions.:(

Ken
 
That lip is not doing anything other than providing a stop for the seal Ken.

So if 75% of it is left, it’s still fulfilling its role.

Leave it be is my vote.
 
Those are nice cast cases on the inside. Now I get the Maney fascination. NV stuff is very ugly in there. Well, my old 750 cases are anyway. Also my pistons were only as clean as yours are when in the boxes they came in. Nice parts sir!!
 
lcrken said:
Some more progress. I managed to pull the drive side half off without too much trouble, leaving the rest of the bottom end intact.

View attachment 99211

These pics show the damage in more detail.

View attachment 99212


View attachment 99213

The broken lip is only .033" thick, but after removing the broken ends, there is still maybe 75% of it left. I'm tempted to just fit (very carefully) a new seal, and go with it. I'm reluctant to try welding it up and machining the lip back. My experience with welding the cases in that area is that it shrinks the bearing bore enough that I would have to re-bore it. The other option is to bore out the seal area and fit a machined insert. Decisions, decisions.:(

Ken
Click to expand...
Can you just get it machined off / recessed and and fit a steel plate machined up proper like , with three or 4 counter sunk screws bolting into that thick area around the bearing . Cheers .
 
Ken,
How about a steel (or titanium :cool:) insert with a stepped lip wide enough to cover the damaged face OD after machining out/down the damage?
Fixes the current damage and potential for happening again. And better than only .033 thick cast aluminum.
 
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Ken
Could you not glue the seal area & use a crank shim to keep the face flat?
 
lcrken said:
Lots of good suggestions here. I'm pretty sure at this point that I'm going to go with a machined insert of some sort. I'll post pictures when sorted.

Ken
Click to expand...
I said you’d do it ‘properly’.

Me, I’d have done nothing !
 
Fast Eddie said:
I said you’d do it ‘properly’.

Me, I’d have done nothing !
Click to expand...

And you'd probably have been right. I just can't seem to help myself. It's a bit like the "if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail", but in reverse. I have all these nice machine tools, so everything looks like it should be fixed with a complicated machining procedure.

Hey, at least it keeps me busy, and as my dad used to say, off the street and out of the pool halls.

Ken
 
Finally managed to do the crankcase repair. Only had to make the insert twice to get it right.:)

Now all I have to do is put it all back together again.

Boring the case to fit the insert.

MK3 Restomod


Finished repair.

MK3 Restomod


Ken
 
Hard to believe it's been almost a year now. The engine is back together and in the bike, along with almost all the other bits. The wiring harness is finished and wrapped. I spent several hours today making a mounting tab for the left side cover and welding it to the frame. It uses a Dzus fastener in place of the stock Mk3 plastic quick release fastener.

Picture of the side cover tab:

MK3 Restomod


And one of the bike with the cover attached:

MK3 Restomod


I still need to reinstall the Tri-Spark ignition and time it, so I can fire it up again and make sure it runs properly. After that, I need to get the seat upholstered, fab up some sort of air filter arrangement, make a chain guard, sort out a front fender and mounts, run an oil tank breather hose to some sort of catch bottle, rivet the new VIN tag on the steering head, stamp the crankcase with a matching serial number, and it will be ready for a test ride. Actually, I plan to do a test ride as soon as possible, so probably without the fender and chain guard. And I'm sure there will be something I don't expect, that will need dealing with.

Its' good to be back working in the shop regularly again. I've lost a lot of time to serious family issues this year, but life goes on, and I'm getting my life in order again. It's just a bit different life now.

I'm making a serious effort to have the bike running and sorted in time for the local SoCal Norton club Hansen Dam ride in November. Looking forward to that.

Ken
 
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