MK3 Restomod

Hey Ken,

Going back to post 228, what ideas have you got up your sleeve for oil tank and side panel mounting?

I ran into the gusset plate obstacle on the 920, because of the longer Maney manifolds. At the time I opted to leave the gusset plate in place and use an opened out cNw Manifold.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Hey Ken,

Going back to post 228, what ideas have you got up your sleeve for oil tank and side panel mounting?

I ran into the gusset plate obstacle on the 920, because of the longer Maney manifolds. At the time I opted to leave the gusset plate in place and use an opened out cNw Manifold.
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Planning to weld a suitable bracket to the frame, and modify the long mounting bracket on the oil tank. Probably something similar for the left side cover, but haven't sorted out the details on that yet. Where there's a will, there's a way.:D

Ken
 
Where there's a will, there are at least THREE ways:

1. The BEST way
2. The WRONG way (or, better, MANY wrong ways)
3. The way you end up doing it (if other than 1 or 2)
 
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FCRs: PJ Motorsports in Oregon makes solid billet flanged velocity stacks that prevent the possibility of fuel drool out of those air screws when using a velocity stack without the proper o-ring flange. Access to the screws is no longer possible without removing the velocity stack. So have to get your tune right before putting on the velocity stacks, or buy a bunch of o-rings because pump gas fuel makes the o-rings stretch, and near impossible to get back in place. Scroll down about 1/3rd of the way on the velocity stack page. Just something to think about.
 
As I mentioned in another thread a while back, if the carbs flood (like mine did when the float needle housing o ring perished) then fuel dribbles out of those pilot air intakes when running stacks.

But this is a good thing. Because if it hadn’t done that, I wouldn’t have know there was an issue, and fuel would have tricked down the port and into the engine instead !
 
Using an o-ring flanged velocity stack wouldn't prevent anyone from smelling excess fuel, plus one could look into the stacks once in a while. It would be easy enough to see pooling fuel in the cutouts in the flanged stack for the air jets. The o-ring flanged stack would also help to keep chunks of road grit out of the air orifices. That is the primary advantage. If I were to run velocity stacks on a street bike, I'd use the o-ring flange type, or use the o-ring flanged filter adapter and a velocity stack clamped onto the adapter. I would not leave the air jet orifices entirely open to the gritty road environment. The disadvantage is not being able to play around with the air screws with the flanged velocity stack or filter adapter in place.

Think of it as "Way 3" in the list of ways for FCR velocity stacks. ;)
 
You’d need an endoscope to look down the stacks on a Commando !

I believe those o rings for the adaptors are for dirt bike environments. The genuine Keihin plastic stacks don’t use o rings and leave the pilots open, so it seems Keihin think it’s ok. I’ve been running mine like that for nearly 8 years, so I’m good with it.

A flooding carb filling the engine with fuel and / or petrol washing the bores is a bigger possible issue IMHO.
 
Endoscope LOL :)

The way I look at it is if it's good enough for a dirt bike, it's good enough for a Norton. I have not read any reports regarding problems using the FCR filter adapters. I may not have used the right search criteria.

It was just a thought to keep things clean. I guess I'm a little warped. I'd spot a real flooding symptom immediately. Besides severe flooding at the float bowl usually goes out that black air vent tube at the top. Probably does so to prevent washing the cylinders and filling the engine with fuel. I'm not sure why the fuel didn't come out that vent in your scenario unless the o-ring leak was very slow or the float bowls are at a funny angle. No point dwelling on it. Fuel under the bridge.

Mine flooded right out of the box, and fuel came out of that air vent tube. I took the float bowls off, removed the float needles and floats, wiggled a few things, and couldn't find any problems, put the bowls back together and no flooding since. Only at year 1 with the FCRs on though.

For grins, I took my filters off and took a look at the filter adapter floor. There was a little fuel back there, but nothing got past the cutaways in the adapter for the air jets.

I'll feel satisfied if I get 8 years of service out of the float needle housing o-ring. Pump gas is nasty.

Trivial side note: I also shortened and blended in a radius in the filter adapters at the filter end of the adapters. They are like mini velocity stacks. yippee skippy
 
If the flood is bad enough, fuel will come out of that air vent hose as you say. But if you look at how high that air vent hose is, a milder flood will simply leak through the various jets opennings and into the carb body. As happened to me. There were witnesses if you need them !
 
Fast Eddie said:
If the flood is bad enough, fuel will come out of that air vent hose as you say. But if you look at how high that air vent hose is, a milder flood will simply leak through the various jets opennings and into the carb body. As happened to me. There were witnesses if you need them !
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I believe you. Didn't mean to come off like it never happened.

I've got another unrelated question you would have an answer for. Mind if I send a PM.
 
Schwany said:
I believe you. Didn't mean to come off like it never happened.

I've got another unrelated question you would have an answer for. Mind if I send a PM.
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Panic not sir, I was being tongue in cheek.

PM away !
 
Ken, by my reckoning I should really have 37mm FCRs on the 920, I’m currently running 35s.

If you ever hear of a similar ser of 37s to what you managed to buy then please let me know.
 
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Fast Eddie said:
Ken, by my reckoning I should really have 37mm FCRs on the 920, I’m currently running 35s.

If you ever hear of a similar ser of 37s to what you managed to buy then please let me know.
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Will do, but I think it was a bit of a fluke that I found the ones I did. It was by an outfit in Japan that were making up FCR pairs with the right spacing for Yamaha SRX6 (and Norton) engines. By now, the SRX is old news, so I doubt if they made any more. Mine was the last one left in stock at the distributor I bought it from. But I'll keep an eye out for another set.

Ken
 
Fast Eddie said:
Ken, by my reckoning I should really have 37mm FCRs on the 920, I’m currently running 35s.

If you ever hear of a similar ser of 37s to what you managed to buy then please let me know.
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PJ Motorsport lists 39mm FCR kits for the SRX600. Doesn't mean the have any though. They also list a 37mm CR kit for the SRX600. They ship internationally, but it could be very spensive.
 
Schwany said:
PJ Motorsport lists 39mm FCR kits for the SRX600. Doesn't mean the have any though. They also list a 37mm CR kit for the SRX600. They ship internationally, but it could be very spensive.
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Thanks but actually, unless I’m reading their site wrong, they only sell 35mm or 39mm for the SRX?

I’ve emailed them anyway, so will see what they can do.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Thanks but actually, unless I’m reading their site wrong, they only sell 35mm or 39mm for the SRX?

I’ve emailed them anyway, so will see what they can do.
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The 37mm kit is CR round smooth bore 016-3281. Who needs an accelerator pump besides me? Youz guys keep telling me they are not necessary.
 
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Sorry, yes, I‘ve just read your post properly :rolleyes:

I’ve had CR’s in the past too. 33mm on a BSA triple motor, so I do agree they’re good.

But your Gixer 1100 would still wheelie with Amal Concentrics fitted !!

I‘d prefer to stick with the FCRs though, one big reason being that I think my current FCR35 settings would provide a reasonable staring point to work from. With 37mm CR‘s on a Norton, I’d be stabbing wildly in the dark !!
 
Fast Eddie said:
Sorry, yes, I‘ve just read your post properly :rolleyes:

I’ve had CR’s in the past too. 33mm on a BSA triple motor, so I do agree they’re good.

But your Gixer 1100 would still wheelie with Amal Concentrics fitted !!

I‘d prefer to stick with the FCRs though, one big reason being that I think my current FCR35 settings would provide a reasonable staring point to work from. With 37mm CR‘s on a Norton, I’d be stabbing wildly in the dark !!
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I deleted that evil image, because I'm not sure if those were round slide CR Kiehin or RS Mikuni. I think they were round slide, but the pic is too blurry to verify.

I can see your excellent point on the FCRs being a little easier to dial in starting with the 35mm settings.

My best guess is you'll probably run into the same thing Ken did sourcing the 37mm FCR kit. Sudco makes all the kits PJ Motorsports sells.
 
Schwany said:
I deleted that evil image, because I'm not sure if those were round slide CR Kiehin or RS Mikuni. I think they were round slide, but the pic is too blurry to verify.

I can see your excellent point on the FCRs being a little easier to dial in starting with the 35mm settings.

My best guess is you'll probably run into the same thing Ken did sourcing the 37mm FCR kit. Sudco makes all the kits PJ Motorsports sells.
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I talked to Sudco when I was looking for the 37 mm FCRs. They told me that they would have to buy 10 of them, minimum, and they didn't think there was enough demand to make it worthwhile for them to do so. I didn't want to buy that many and hope I could sell the extras.:D I bought my pair from Webike Japan, and they got them from JB Power (BITO R&D), another Japan company that specializes in high performance motorcycle parts, including carbs. The FCRs for the SRX6 don't appear to be listed any more on either the Webike or JB Power we b sites.

Ken
 
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