concours
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Mk3 Oil Tank bottom mount
- Thread starter p400
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The stock mount is a poor way structurally to support the oil tank as experience with breakage/leaks has proven. The best way is to either have CNW modify it or basically doing the same thing perhaps a bit less elegantly yourself. If you do this, the bottom of the tank is completely supported rather than having the self-incorporated fracture point present in the OEM setup.
p400
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I visited CNW and found the following Norton oil tank mod available for $170 -
cNw Oil Tank Modification
Modification: cNw
Description: Send us your old oil tank and we will do a number of upgrades and modifications to improve on the original design. The original upper mounts fail and when the lower mount gets over loaded it will fracture the tank. If you are fortunate it will only create hairline cracks and the tank will just leak, if you aren’t so fortunate the entire mounting boss and part of the oil tank will come off and the oil will pour out (on your rear wheel to make it all worse) and in a matter of seconds your oil tank will be completely empty. Your sweet old Commando engine is now running without oil and it won’t do that for very long
Details:
*The oil tank gets completely boiled out to remove any sludge and build up. This also strips all paint off.
*The lower tank mount gets cut off and a plate is brazed over the area to ensure any hairline cracks are covered up.
*The rear mount is beefed up for added strength. This rear mount is also shaped to give it a better fit with the thicker than stock mounting rubber.
*The spigot to the chain oiler (if equipped) is closed up.
*The oil tank is finished in a gloss powder coat
*The finish is removed to bare metal where it is needed to ensure proper sealing when installed.
*Included are two rubber mounts that are far stronger than the original.
*Stainless steel hardware to mount is included.
*A high density foam pad to install between the battery cover and oil tank is included
cNw Oil Tank Modification
Modification: cNw
Description: Send us your old oil tank and we will do a number of upgrades and modifications to improve on the original design. The original upper mounts fail and when the lower mount gets over loaded it will fracture the tank. If you are fortunate it will only create hairline cracks and the tank will just leak, if you aren’t so fortunate the entire mounting boss and part of the oil tank will come off and the oil will pour out (on your rear wheel to make it all worse) and in a matter of seconds your oil tank will be completely empty. Your sweet old Commando engine is now running without oil and it won’t do that for very long
Details:
*The oil tank gets completely boiled out to remove any sludge and build up. This also strips all paint off.
*The lower tank mount gets cut off and a plate is brazed over the area to ensure any hairline cracks are covered up.
*The rear mount is beefed up for added strength. This rear mount is also shaped to give it a better fit with the thicker than stock mounting rubber.
*The spigot to the chain oiler (if equipped) is closed up.
*The oil tank is finished in a gloss powder coat
*The finish is removed to bare metal where it is needed to ensure proper sealing when installed.
*Included are two rubber mounts that are far stronger than the original.
*Stainless steel hardware to mount is included.
*A high density foam pad to install between the battery cover and oil tank is included
Never have a problem fitting the top washer
Fitting is not that hard on an assembled bike. Mind you over 14 years of fitting fiddly fittings and retrieving them from the backs of electronic racks on submarines hones the skill for it.
Yes, Really, think about it, easy peasy to fit on bike being built from frame up, so the assembly line had no excuse.I guess the build book was secreted from the assembly line workers. My "never registered 5 mile" MKIII had only 1(thick) washer. The 1" bolt last 3 threads were quite mashed. The bike was unmolested when I got it, but is slowly becoming disassembled from investigating and answering so many questions...
The bolt access with the oil lines in place is horrible (I agree).
However I'd suggest (like Dave M) a 7/8 or 3/4" with a lock washer and call it a day. Use a 1/4 drive 12" extension and it is otherwise quite easy to do...but 2 plain washers?
Now I see why the assembly line workers did not follow the build "book", would you?
Fitting is not that hard on an assembled bike. Mind you over 14 years of fitting fiddly fittings and retrieving them from the backs of electronic racks on submarines hones the skill for it.
Fast Eddie
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S’wot I got.
maylar
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- May 13, 2007
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Yep, me too. Got tired of failed rear brackets and welding them back on. Even AN knows it's a failure point, as they carry replacement brackets that have to be welded in place.
p400
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I thought i saw a crack in my oil tank on the rear panel which allowed oil to coat tank and hoses.
I fitted a new red silicone oil fill cap gasket from REAL, now the leak is gone!
https://realgaskets.com/product/oil-tank-cap-seal/
The cap does not fit as it did oem, this slightly thicker gasket wont allow full turn.
I only have a fast 100mile run to test so far.
I fitted a new red silicone oil fill cap gasket from REAL, now the leak is gone!
https://realgaskets.com/product/oil-tank-cap-seal/
The cap does not fit as it did oem, this slightly thicker gasket wont allow full turn.
I only have a fast 100mile run to test so far.
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